Bring out yer Diptrace

I haven't ordered adapters like this in quite a while, so I'm struggling to remember what their minimum dimensions are. I want to say it's 10x10mm... might have to be panel-ized if it's smaller, maybe? I'm also not sure about the threshold for shapes, but typically curves are fine. If it's overly complex, they just tack on an engineering fee, but that shows up in the item in the cart before you check out.
I just checked, it's 5x5mm minimum size, so that'll work. I'll just give it a try and see how they turn out :)
 
99% single-sided for etching. Adding in my overly complicated switches and making the layout mostly nice looking and symmetrical necessitates a single jumper across those two square pads under that central switch. But it fits the PPCB 6-hole pattern (well 5, since there's nothing on the middle top, but yeah...)

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I have a few I've been messing with getting my feet wet. The SeaMoon is from a while back. The RatBender is a just a Rat and Tonebender mixed together with a rotary switch to select diodes's for clipping. I'm sure I skimmed that off someone (probably here). I have yet to order those and verify them. The rotary switch was just something to make mounting the mini switches off-board easy (I made different shapes besides round for fun) and used it in my Whisper of Screams build. The ALPs one is for a preamp board I have that I can no longer get the pot made for it for the balance control, so I made one for the little RK series that I can mount phoenix blocks on to wire it in with. And then the ubiquitous 3PDT pcb. I made a little voltage inverter for using PNP transistors on a center negative supply too. That one I have used.
 

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Working on an AD633 modulator with a raspberry pi pico controlled AD9833 DDS signal generator for the modulation. This is a rough draft bench top PCB for making sure everything works right and determining what features are useful to have in a pedal. If the phase control ends up being useless I might swap out the µc for something smaller with less GPIO pins like something from the attiny series, but I have a ton of these Pico Zero boards on hand and built in usb-c means they're wild easy to program.

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What's the typical shipping time for Global Standard Direct Line from JLCPCB to the USA?

I have a PCB on the way and am wondering how urgently I need to order the parts. 😂
 
What's the typical shipping time for Global Standard Direct Line from JLCPCB to the USA?

I have a PCB on the way and am wondering how urgently I need to order the parts. 😂

My last one from "Packaged,waiting for pick up by the carrier" to my house was 13 days. I'm on the west coast though (and canada) so don't know if that helps speed it up. They stopped handing it over to Canada Post and used "UniUni" which isn't awesome, but it didn't seem to hurt speeds.
 
Global Standard Direct Line from JLCPCB to the USA?
I'm in UT, only a bit further distance-wise than customs in California, but here's the truncated timeline:
Feb 3: packaged
Feb 4: first shipping location
Feb 11: customs processing (CA)
Feb 18: arrived at my doorstep
 
Latest success. This is the actual idea I had in my head for my hearing aid circuit but I didn't have the balls to do a phaser I guess. Robert gave me a big leg up and I am eternally grateful. I still might want to scrunch it back down into a stacked 125B/single knob enclosure because I'm dumb like that. It's supposed to be noisy. It's an SRS EQ exciter/phase 90/lofi pt2399 delay designed to fit into a unique enclosure I got from mwpedalparts. Just verified it for the most part and I'm super stoked it pretty much fired up on the first go (besides the EQ lug 1 not being grounded for some reason).

I just got one of those little hot plates for doing SMD stuff on and I have a pile of CD2399 to fit in this weird custom footprint I made...that's next now that I know everything else checks out :ROFLMAO:

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I also wouldn't mind changing the gain stage to something that cleans up better...fuzz faces aren't it. Maybe a Bosstone...or an insert 1/4" for dealer's choice cause all the goodness happens after that anyway.
 
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A friendly suggestion...

If you place your wire pads on either side of your pots (rather than directly over them), you may find that wiring the circuit is easier and less prone to shorts/wires breaking from over bending. Just a suggestion, you do you.
 
@Brett yeah I kinda didn’t think that thru. I’m so used to making one knobbers 😂

Luckily it will need another revision anyway, but the bones are there and it works so I’m happy so far!
 
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