Bring out yer Diptrace

I drew this up - it's the same circuit as before (Mastema Drive) but laid out on a 1590bb with everything mounted to the board. If this were a pedal I would make, I would use the audio jacks that have a collar nut that secures from the outside. The power jack would be recessed, and the LED trim knob would be accessible by removing the jewel lens I use in my pedals.

I tried to keep everything on the top board and the bottom is a solid ground plane
il diav 1590bb 2.jpg
 
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szukalski said:
Monty layout thread. Best thread.

Here's an OD series I've been playing with.

The OD-1, Adam Overdrive:
View attachment 109018
TS-808, Hey let's add a tone control!
View attachment 109019
Let's crank it a bit with the SD-1
View attachment 109020
Yamaha won't be left behind, shifting the mid hump down with the OD-10!
View attachment 109021

And on and on it goes in the pedal world. An overdrive is just an OD-1 with a different tone control.. kinda makes you wonder what else you can do with it. Add a boost? Different diodes? Refine the tone section? What's next? Tune in to find out what will come up in the never-ending OD-1 overdrive collection story!
Click to expand...
Add 7 unnecessary buffers?
Maybe a overly complicated power section that will run off any laptop charger or stepdown transformer?
 
Here is a Resinite OD (Amber Overdrive), probably my favorite distortion circuits. While making this I learned it's a big muff, and I don't know how I feel about that.

I wanted to make it without any off board components. It uses these jacks which are smaller than the Neutrik style. I was watching a review of the Prince of Tone and noticed it was built with these so I'm going to try them out.

It uses tall leg PCB pots. The plan for the power jack is to drill round access hole for the plug and keep the rest of the jack behind the enclosure, rather than using a square shaped hole.

I kept the length below 100mm. I -think- there is enough room for everything. I wanted the audio jacks as far away from each other as possible. To deal with the angled side of the enclosure I'm going to install the audio jacks into the enclosure and then lower the board down onto them so I'll be able to set the angle and then solder it in.

The top layer is power and ground, while the bottom layer has the signal traces and another ground pour. I'd like to put component values on the bottom as well

The layout was a pain to work out. It's not the prettiest but the traces are as short as possible and there's nothing too crazy. For trace width I used .025 for everything.

amber125b2.jpg

amber125bback2.jpg

I just got my first order from JLC in, and when it's built and in a pedal I'll send this in for production
 
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I spent some time with the data sheets updating the pad and hole dimensions for the jacks, as well as some cut outs in the board for the enclosure screw bosses. I think it's ready!

(in this pic the in/out audio jacks are reversed)


amber125b3.jpg
 
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falco_femoralis said:
I spent some time with the data sheets updating the pad and hole dimensions for the jacks, as well as some cut outs in the board for the enclosure screw bosses. I think it's ready!

(in this pic the in/out audio jacks are reversed)


View attachment 109404
Click to expand...

I saw that you were using the audio jacks with protruding barrels -- have you made a full size board like this with those kinds of jacks?
One problem that I've had is that with the jacks protruding from the top, it's really hard to get the pedal into the enclosure because
you can't get the pots and the jacks on top to line up at the same time. I guess I saw that you were planning on setting the jacks in the enclosure and then soldering it in place - I suppose the entombs the pedal in place at that point but maybe that's ok. Or maybe it works ok with the long-legged pots since they have some more wiggle room?

I did find the Neutrik NMJ6HCD2 that has the externally-screwed in nut, which is 18.2mm wide instead of 20mm wide like most of the others - that allows a little breathing room but maybe not enough to do top-mounted like that in a 1590B, which looks only 44mm wide at the top between the screw holes.

I don't know if your DC jack footprint is right - the cheap one from Tayda (https://www.taydaelectronics.com/dc-power-jack-2-1mm-barrel-type-pcb-mount.html) has the 'switch' connector turned 90 degrees so it's actually quite a lot narrower.

I ... think your input/output are okay here, assuming that the pots are mounted on the back of this. This'll put your input on the right hand side of the pedal once you flip it over. (Your left and right are reversed since you're actually looking at the 'back' of the circuit board when considering the direction of the pedal when it's pots-side-up)
 
z2amiller said:
I saw that you were using the audio jacks with protruding barrels -- have you made a full size board like this with those kinds of jacks?
One problem that I've had is that with the jacks protruding from the top, it's really hard to get the pedal into the enclosure because
you can't get the pots and the jacks on top to line up at the same time. I guess I saw that you were planning on setting the jacks in the enclosure and then soldering it in place - I suppose the entombs the pedal in place at that point but maybe that's ok. Or maybe it works ok with the long-legged pots since they have some more wiggle room?

I did find the Neutrik NMJ6HCD2 that has the externally-screwed in nut, which is 18.2mm wide instead of 20mm wide like most of the others - that allows a little breathing room but maybe not enough to do top-mounted like that in a 1590B, which looks only 44mm wide at the top between the screw holes.

I don't know if your DC jack footprint is right - the cheap one from Tayda (https://www.taydaelectronics.com/dc-power-jack-2-1mm-barrel-type-pcb-mount.html) has the 'switch' connector turned 90 degrees so it's actually quite a lot narrower.

I ... think your input/output are okay here, assuming that the pots are mounted on the back of this. This'll put your input on the right hand side of the pedal once you flip it over. (Your left and right are reversed since you're actually looking at the 'back' of the circuit board when considering the direction of the pedal when it's pots-side-up)
Click to expand...

Hi, thanks for your reply. I saw the Tayda one but I wanted to spring for a nicer DC jack so I spec'd the footprint for this Switchcraft jack.

I have two ideas for being able to disassemble the pedal - either elongate the holes for the pots/foot switch, pr the audio jacks. I had an MXR pedal where the audio jack holes extended to the bottom of the enclosure so the board could be loaded in from the bottom as an assembly. That's another idea as well. I want to see which idea is the cleanest or easiest to implement but I won't be able to see the full picture until I have it in my hands.

I'd like to use audio jacks with barrels that attach from the outside as they are cleaner but the ones I spec'd here allow for the audio jacks to be spread further apart, which is a higher priority for me. I'll check out the Neutrik jack you linked. I don't know if that's in my diptrace library

Everything is mounted to the top of the board, including the audio jacks. It'll be like a boss pedal with all the component pins and soldering facing the back panel of the enclosure - the opposite of how we are used to building pedals here. This allows the most space for the height of the footswitch. The pots are the long leg PCB variety
 
falco_femoralis said:
his allows the most space for the height of the footswitch. The pots are the long leg PCB variety
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I'd love to see a pic when you are done - I wonder if the height and flexibility of the long pins will give you the room you need to maneuver the audio jacks where you need them.

There's also this DC jack from Wurth electronics which I think is what the cheapie Taydas are modeled after, if you need to squeeze the top tighter together (It might buy you a couple mm!)
 
z2amiller said:
I'd love to see a pic when you are done - I wonder if the height and flexibility of the long pins will give you the room you need to maneuver the audio jacks where you need them.

There's also this DC jack from Wurth electronics which I think is what the cheapie Taydas are modeled after, if you need to squeeze the top tighter together (It might buy you a couple mm!)
Click to expand...
I think it'll be ok. There's a lot of room in the 125b enclosure. I could probably squeeze this into a 1590b, but I like to keep the jacks far apart to accommodate pancake style patch cables. Ideally I'd like to elevate the DC jack to be above the audio jacks and in between the pots but I haven't figured out how to do that while keeping it board mounted. I can off board it easily but the goal is to keep everything on the board.

I have an idea on accomplishing that but I need to work with these audio jacks and learn their spacing before committing to it.

I wanted to make this as both a finished design I can build out and be proud of, as well as a prototype for later versions. I made the tolerances pretty loose so there would be lots of room to work with for the first design. Ideally I'd like to squeeze this into a 1590b, but the 125b allows more room to work with for this proof of concept type format.

I'll order them in a couple weeks - I have a lot of irons in the fire atm
 
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