Cobalt Drive Power Issues

A2K

Member
Hi everyone,

I've built the Cobalt Drive and when it works, it works well. But there's one problem - the DC jack is super finicky. Sometimes the power will shut off or the output volume will decrease dramatically unless I wiggle the power cable around to get it fully working.

I'm 100% sure it's not a bad cable or power supply issue. I also do not see anything moving to maybe create a bad contact when the cable is pushed into the DC jack.

Not really sure what the problem is here. It could be a bad jack but I had the same issue on my subsequent Super 64 build (until a tantalum capacitor blew up on me, ending my initial test within a few seconds).

Any ideas?
 
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A few people have had problems with those jacks. I use them on most of my builds, but my builds are typically light-duty prototypes that generally end up in the salvage pile.

The Lumberg equivalent is supposed to be much more reliable.
 
A few people have had problems with those jacks. I use them on most of my builds, but my builds are typically light-duty prototypes that generally end up in the salvage pile.

The Lumberg equivalent is supposed to be much more reliable.

Yeah, could be the case of a bad jack. Just seems weird that this happened twice with brand new jacks. It's not like it worked fine initially and then failed after some usage. I also used the same bag of jacks for some older vero builds I did and those all worked fine.

I could try to replace it with one of these (provided it will fit) - https://lovemyswitches.com/outtie-switched-2-1mm-dc-power-jack/
 
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Like @PedalPCB said, I've had a very high failure rate with those thinline Tayda jacks, both out of the box and over time.

I use these whenever possible (bonus, having the nut on the outside means you can disassemble the whole pedal without having to unsolder anything):

 
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Like @PedalPCB said, I've had a very high failure rate with those thinline Tayda jacks, both out of the box and over time.

I use these whenever possible (bonus, having the nut on the outside means you can disassemble the whole pedal without having to unsolder anything):


Fair enough. I've built around 13 previous pedals with those thinline Tayda jacks, but maybe I was just lucky that I didn't have any failures with those. Either way, I'll switch the jack to one of my outies and see what happens.

P.S. I totally get the benefit of having the nut on the outside!
 
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