SOLVED Crystal drive massive buzz.

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HunkFunkPedals

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Anyone ever run into this?

I've been trying everything and nothing seems to get rid of a fat honking buzz.

If anyone has any tips on how to narrow it down I'd love to hear it.

I had it on my test board and it had a slight buzz, I figured it might be a grounding issue but after baking it it's annoying ass hell.
 

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for starters, move the input wire so that the route doesn't cross under the board.
then I would move on to verifying that jack ground has continuity with power ground has continuity with all the board grounds ... then all the points in the schematic that go to ground ... also, there's no real need to wire across the lugs of your in/out jacks. if they're shorting, run the wires to the side that lifts when the cable is inserted as any additional wire is technically an antenna
 
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HunkFunkPedals said:
Anyone ever run into this?

I've been trying everything and nothing seems to get rid of a fat honking buzz.

If anyone has any tips on how to narrow it down I'd love to hear it.

I had it on my test board and it had a slight buzz, I figured it might be a grounding issue but after baking it it's annoying ass hell.
Click to expand...
You have used plastic In & out jacks from what I can see, You have No Ground from PCB & Jacks to the enclosure!
Try running a Ground wire from Ground pad to the enclosure with a Lid cover screw to see if that cures your issue.
 
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music6000 said:
You have used plastic In & out jacks from what I can see, You have No Ground from PCB & Jacks to the enclosure!
Try running a Ground wire from Ground pad to the enclosure with a Lid cover screw to see if that cures your issue.
Click to expand...
If it does solve your issue, Solder the Ground wire to the star washer on the Footswitch, make sure it is to clean aluminium surface inside the pedal on the threaded area of the Footswitch so when you tighten Footswitch nut it is a good Ground.
 
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Buffalo FX Grounds like this with Pop Rivets:
Propeller-04-s.jpg
 
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thesmokingman said:
for starters, move the input wire so that the route doesn't cross under the board.
then I would move on to verifying that jack ground has continuity with power ground has continuity with all the board grounds ... then all the points in the schematic that go to ground ... also, there's no real need to wire across the lugs of your in/out jacks. if they're shorting, run the wires to the side that lifts when the cable is inserted as any additional wire is technically an antenna
Click to expand...
Done and done. No change.
 
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I have to say that your Build deviates from the BOM by using fly wires to your pots
This creates more wire & double the solder points!!!
Can you show a Picture of the Back of the Board????
This has been successfully built recently a couple of times!!!
 
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music6000 said:
I have to say that your Build deviates from the BOM by using fly wires to your pots
This creates more wire & double the solder points!!!
Can you show a Picture of the Back of the Board????
This has been successfully built recently a couple of times!!!
Click to expand...
how do you know its been built successfully? I built 3 muffin fuzz green Russian builds without issue. maybe the other builds were the older edition.
 
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HunkFunkPedals said:
how do you know its been built successfully? I built 3 muffin fuzz green Russian builds without issue. maybe the other builds were the older edition.
Click to expand...

There is no older edition, the PCB is verified and has been built successfully. The silkscreen for the LED was changed two years ago, nothing else has changed. The most recent successful build report was three months ago, these PCBs would have all been identical and from the same batch.

This issue has come up before but I'm not sure what the resolution was...

HunkFunkPedals said:
I'm all about the helpful hints but this seems a bit extreme.....especially from a pre-fab pcb....
Click to expand...

You're still expected to ground the enclosure properly with a pre-fab PCB. You don't need rivets and lugs, but you definitely should ground it by some method. This is generally why most folks use metal frame jacks.

The long wires from the pots could be a source for noise as well. The PCB was designed for PCB mounted potentiometers.

This may or may not be the cause of your problem, but it's two of the most common sources of noise in a build.
 
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HunkFunkPedals said:
Ok.

The pot wires wouldn't make this sound. I've grounded the pcb all over. I've tested continuity of ground.

No where in the build documents does it say if you don't mount the pots to the pcb directly you'll suffer a build destroying buzz.
Click to expand...

High gain fuzz circuits are very susceptible to noise due to wire placement, especially the input/output wires. Try running them as far away from the transistors as possible, yet keep them as short as possible.
 
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Coda said:
High gain fuzz circuits are very susceptible to noise due to wire placement, especially the input/output wires. Try running them as far away from the transistors as possible, yet keep them as short as possible.
Click to expand...
Is this a "high gain fuzz circuit"?

It should be a "distortion" at most and an "od" on average.
 
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