SOLVED Duo-Phase 4 jack issues.

[MichaelW]

Hey all,

Looking for some help on the 4 jack option of the Duo-Phase before I bail on it and revert to the 2 jack option.

I can't seem to get get side B to work independently and I can't seen to get it to work in series while using Side A.

When I use the Side B Jacks by themselves I get no bypass. (or signal with pedal engaged)

When in Side A I can select either LFOA or LFOB so I know both LFO's are working. But I can't get both LFO's in series.

I'm pretty confused on this whole switching jack thing and I suspect that it's my wiring.

Here's two ways I've tied wiring the switching jack. What am I doing wrong?

 

[Coda]

I’m not familiar with that style of Jack. Have you double-checked what goes where? Pop a patch cable in ant test for continuity between then Jack at one end and the TRS tabs on the other…

 

[Robert]

EDIT: I see you've tried both ways, doh. I believe the top picture is correct.

 

[MichaelW]

I think you need to reverse the wires on that switching jack.

The wires on the left side should be on the right side, and the wire on the right should be on the left.

Which two wires? I tried it both ways in the two pics above.

 

[Robert]

Just to clarify how you use them.... Normally you'll want to plug your input into Side A input, and your output comes from Side B output.

The only time you'll use Side A output or Side B input is when you're splitting them and using each side separately.

For most situations you'll just use the outermost two jacks.

 

[MichaelW]

Ok that’s not working for me. The only way it currently works is if I plug into side A In and Side A out. Otherwise I’m not getting any bypass

 

[Robert]

 

[Robert]

With nothing plugged into the jacks check for continuity between these lugs.

 

[MichaelW]

Ok tried that, still not working when patched like your pic. There must be something else going on wrong. I'll need to troubleshoot a little later.
May not be my wiring on the jacks that's the issue but something else I screwed up...heh

 

[Robert]

If bypass is affected it's something offboard. Either the wiring, a jack, or something going on around one of the 3PDT switches.

Nothing on the main PCB will affect bypass.

Since Side B doesn't seem to be working at all even when plugged in directly I'd focus on the righthand side.

 

[MichaelW]

Hah! I think I found it. Duh........

I've been trying to go a little lighter on the solder with the 3PDT boards....I think this one was a bit too sparse.......

 

[Robert]

That'll do it!

Now, plug into the outside jacks and engage both sides. Woooosh.

It's cool to sync the LFOs for a big lush 12-stages of phase, but I also like to set them to opposite extremes.

Set one side nice and slow, turn depth up so you get a big wide sweep.

Then set the other side with a faster rate and lower depth, for a shimmering vibrato-like sound.

 

[Coda]

Hah! I think I found it. Duh........

I've been trying to go a little lighter on the solder with the 3PDT boards....I think this one was a bit too sparse.......

View attachment 35468

That’s why I fill the whole thing. Sure, I get it…you don’t need the whole thing filled. But the , sometimes you do…as you have learned…

 

[MichaelW]

That’s why I fill the whole thing. Sure, I get it…you don’t need the whole thing filled. But the , sometimes you do…as you have learned…

No I actually missed it completely, as in the solder was one state over (in Georgia). Heh…

 

[MichaelW]

That'll do it!

Now, plug into the outside jacks and engage both sides. Woooosh.

It's cool to sync the LFOs for a big lush 12-stages of phase, but I also like to set them to opposite extremes.

Set one side nice and slow, turn depth up so you get a big wide sweep.

Then set the other side with a faster rate and lower depth, for a shimmering vibrato-like sound.

Yah next is figuring out what the two toggles actually do…..heh….but work interferes….sigh…

 

[Coda]

No I actually missed it completely, as in the solder was one state over (in Georgia). Heh…

When they are all filled, the duds really stand out. Solder is cheap, and if you are that concerned with melting the switch, turn the heat down. It’s a small circuit soldering iron, not a flame thrower. Unless you’re going for that melted-box-cap mojo status…

 

[Robert]

That’s why I fill the whole thing. Sure, I get it…you don’t need the whole thing filled. But the , sometimes you do…as you have learned…

I always do as well, unless it's a toggle switch I plan to salvage later (like DPDT Type 2)...

Look, I'm trying to keep Kester in business over here.

 

[MichaelW]

When they are all filled, the duds really stand out. Solder is cheap, and if you are that concerned with melting the switch, turn the heat down. It’s a small circuit soldering iron, not a flame thrower. Unless you’re going for that melted-box-cap mojo status…

I’m mostly concerned about unseen bridges under the board. I’ve had a few where it’s like I’m watching 2 inches of solder go down the hole and it’s still not filled….where does all that solder go?

 

[MichaelW]

I’m mostly concerned about unseen bridges under the board. I’ve had a few where it’s like I’m watching 2 inches of solder go down the hole and it’s still not filled….where does all that solder go?

I think this mostly comes from my Chauffer build where I had a bad switch connection. I have a feeling it’s a bridge under the board. I fixed it with a trace but it still bothers me. I might have to yank it just to satisfy my curiosity. (And not have a trace on my otherwise lovely build hahahah)

 

[fig]

I’m mostly concerned about unseen bridges under the board. I’ve had a few where it’s like I’m watching 2 inches of solder go down the hole and it’s still not filled….where does all that solder go?

Not to the output pin apparently.

(Here I am staring at a full but silent breadboard....like I have room to talk)