Flock Harmonizing Fuzz - Arriving Soon!!!

That's the only difference.

I did a contract PCB for a particular builder a few years ago who insisted on using the larger type rotary switch (and no breakout) even though the mini 16mm rotary switches would have worked fine. What they did was bend the pot lugs near the body slightly to get a bit more length.

It really isn't necessary though, they will reach, you just can't drop them all the way down to sit flush against the PCB.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
jeffwhitfield said:
Other than the updated rotary, if everything else is the same, I'll be happy to just stick with the first revision. No biggie. :)

Good tip on the pots. I might end up using the longer lead pots for mine to avoid any issues with the height.
Click to expand...
That becomes a bigger issue in the 1590BB as it is to close to the Lid for components.
I would just carefully pushed the 16mm pot legs up a little higher & straighten them up!
 
As long as you mount the PCB to the rotary switch first then bend the leads of the long pin pots to match that height you shouldn't have any problems.
 
With boards that use rotary switches, I typically mount the pots to the board first by spot soldering the center pin a bit to hold it in place. I don't typically mount it flush to the board but instead just enough for the pin to stick up a bit off the PCB. From there, I add the rotary switch to the board but don't solder it yet. Instead, I just bend the leads in a bit to hold it in place. Once it's all in, I'll add the washers and nuts but only hand tighten them just so that everything is flush to the enclosure. From there, solder the pots in place followed by the rotary switch. Works well and insures that the pots are positioned well.
 
Robert said:
I've decided to make an update to the Flock PCB....

I initially wanted to avoid a breakout board for the rotary switch because someone inevitably will install it upside down on the rotary, but after some debating with myself I've decided to go ahead and go that direction.

The rotary switch puts the PCB at a height where 16mm pot pins just barely make it. It's absolutely doable, but a little tricky to assemble.

Washers under each pot (inside the enclosure) can lift them up enough that this is not an issue at all, but in the end I decided it'd just be easier to include a breakout board.


I've also updated the rotary switch footprint to work with the solder lug rotary switches available from Tayda Electronics, since the PCB pin mount versions can be harder to find. No lead clipping required! :ROFLMAO:

If you received one of the first revision PCBs and would like the updated board just shoot me a message.

View attachment 30385
Click to expand...
I have an original but got the right switch so I'm ok. Would love a drill template, though!
 
Any chance we can get a parts list for this? I missed a capacitor on my Derailer build and need to place a Mouser order, so I'd like to order the parts for this along with it. TIA
 
You might want to get the rotary switch from Tayda. I have one from Mouser and the shaft is way too long.

If you already have the PCB you'll need to clip the solder lugs off the rotary switch (don't clip them too short) and you won't need the pinheaders at the bottom of the list.

If you're waiting for the restock the solder lugs should fit on that revision, and you'll either want the pinheaders or some solid core wire / lead clippings to connect the breakout boards.
 

Attachments

Robert said:
You might want to get the rotary switch from Tayda. I have one from Mouser and the shaft is way too long.

If you already have the PCB you'll need to clip the solder lugs off the rotary switch (don't clip them too short) and you won't need the pinheaders at the bottom of the list.

If you're waiting for the restock the solder lugs should fit on that revision, and you'll either want the pinheaders or some solid core wire / lead clippings to connect the breakout boards.
Click to expand...
Awesome, thanks!
 
Robert said:
You might want to get the rotary switch from Tayda. I have one from Mouser and the shaft is way too long.

If you already have the PCB you'll need to clip the solder lugs off the rotary switch (don't clip them too short) and you won't need the pinheaders at the bottom of the list.

If you're waiting for the restock the solder lugs should fit on that revision, and you'll either want the pinheaders or some solid core wire / lead clippings to connect the breakout boards.
Click to expand...
The 10u and 100u caps are electrolytic? And the pinheader should be straight, not right angled?
 
They are, and that's correct.

I haven't built the new revision with the breakout boards yet (because they aren't here yet, lol) but I don't expect there to be a problem. The pads between the boards should align properly so straight pinheaders can be used between them.

I will, of course, build one as soon as they arrive to confirm that everything is good to go.
 
Any suggestions on a good knob for that rotary switch? I usually use the knurled shaft for rotaries, no experience with the plastic shafts like on the suggested one. Do you just crank the screw so it digs into the plastic shaft?
 
PangeaDestructor said:
Any suggestions on a good knob for that rotary switch? I usually use the knurled shaft for rotaries, no experience with the plastic shafts like on the suggested one. Do you just crank the screw so it digs into the plastic shaft?
Click to expand...

That's what I've done. It doesn't take a whole lot of force, they seem to grab pretty good without much "digging in" needed.
 
Robert said:
I've decided to make an update to the Flock PCB....

I initially wanted to avoid a breakout board for the rotary switch because someone inevitably will install it upside down on the rotary, but after some debating with myself I've decided to go ahead and go that direction.

The rotary switch puts the PCB at a height where 16mm pot pins just barely make it. It's absolutely doable, but a little tricky to assemble.

Washers under each pot (inside the enclosure) can lift them up enough that this is not an issue at all, but in the end I decided it'd just be easier to include a breakout board.


I've also updated the rotary switch footprint to work with the solder lug rotary switches available from Tayda Electronics, since the PCB pin mount versions can be harder to find. No lead clipping required! :ROFLMAO:

If you received one of the first revision PCBs and would like the updated board just shoot me a message.

View attachment 30385
Click to expand...
I would love to receive the newer revision, if it's not too late!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

Jebull
Flock + intelligent relay
Replies
4
Views
155
Jebull
Jebull
Z
Looking for the BOM and drill templates for the Flock Harmonizing Fuzz and the Acrobat Parametric Distortion
Replies
1
Views
444
jcpst
J
M
Zorkmid Overdrive PCB - Arriving Soon!
Replies
8
Views
2K
harmaes
H
M
NOTAKLICHÉ PCB - Arriving Soon!
2
Replies
22
Views
2K
Feral Feline
Feral Feline
F
Building Flock Fuzz - tips for soldering rotary switch breakout board?
Replies
2
Views
214
FleeRemi
F
Back
Top