Fv1 clock module

Bsoncini

New member
Just wondering how to wire this up. There are 3 pins. I imagine 9v ground 2 for the clock? st wondering how to wire it to the board.
 
Omit the 32.768khz crystal oscillator and 15pF capacitor on the main FV-1 PCB.

"9V" and "GND" go to the respective points somewhere on your main PCB
"Pin 10" go to the pad for the crystal that is connected to pin 10 of the FV-1 IC.

49
 
It gives you a variable clock rate to underclock / overclock the FV-1 IC.

The effect varies depending on the algorithm... It can double the maximum time of a delay, stretch out a reverb (or make it more dense), etc.
 
Ok thanks works perfectly.

In terms of what it does in the small time I played with it. The trimmer changed the delay time of the algorithm I had. So I guess I could use that for delay time to free up a pot and mount the trimmer externally?
 
Yes, you can do that. Just keep in mind other aspects of an algorithm will change when you adjust the pot.... Modulation rates / filter frequencies / pitch shifts will change simultaneously.
 
hola, mi pregunta es si al comprar a través de la página una EPROM, para FV-1, ¿se puede usar y usar el código de respaldo en uno nuevo? ¿Es la EPROM de código abierto, también se puede modificar en el diseñador spincad?
 
Reviving an old thread as I experiment with one of my older Arachnid boards.

Omitting the crystal and the 15pf cap seems to also disconnect anything from the input of pin 9 on the FV-1. I guess that doesn't matter in this case (it's another crystal oscillator input)?

My goal is to try experimenting with switching between the clock module and stock (I've already removed the two components from the board).

If it's as simple as connecting the clock module to pin 10, I suppose I could simply put a SPST between that connection with the other side pointing to a crystal/15pf cap combination to ground?

Essentially, trying to decide if the clock module is worth it, as I don't want to totally screw up existing patches, like glimmer (hence being able to switch to stock---I'm only really trying it as I bought one before knowing what it did. Ha).
 
I like it. The deflector makes good use of it and I've monkeyed around with it on my Mimir's Well build. I haven't used a switch but if you change patches a lot being able to go back to the stock clock setting might be nice. Saves you the trouble of finding the sweet spot on the clock.
 
Thanks. Yeah I went for it in the end (in this build). Might still try to figure out the best way to switch it to stock, but I'm happy with the external pot/expression jack for now.
 
I used a DPDT switch to change between stock Hydra clock and the FV-1 clock module as per the schematic below. I soldered the original X1 crystal and C7 cap on a separate board and have wires running to both X1 pads on the hydra pcb (connecting to FV-1 pins 9 and 10).
52117183807_2fd621ca72_o.png
 
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