Hudson Sidecar

Ratimus

Ratimus

Active member
YATS, with asymmetric clipping (LED & Ge+Si) into a Baxandall. Sounds pretty good. A fella on Facebook bought one and took a bunch of gut shots, which he sent to me for tracing. The originals are on vero board, so I feel pretty confident tracing this one just from the pictures (especially since I can keep asking him for component values and such). I'll post the schematic once I draw it up.
 
Here's the layout and the schematic. Note that there are three cuts on the layout that are obscured by resistors.

Edit: updated schematic
- output cap value
- drive pot flipped
 

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Last edited:
Thanks for posting the schematic.
Just looking at it why on earth did the use two parallel(C4 and C5) 330n caps at input, what sense does that make other than that they might have had too many of that value in stock? Same with C12 and C13, both parallel 33n. Are there any unicorn advantages in there that I'm missing rather than using a single cap of appropriate value (like 680n and 68n respectively)?
Also: why is the output electro C15 so big value with 100uF? Wouldn't something smaller like 10u do the same job? Or a 3u3 film cap which I happen to have too many off?
 
cooder said:
Thanks for posting the schematic.
Just looking at it why on earth did the use two parallel(C4 and C5) 330n caps at input, what sense does that make other than that they might have had too many of that value in stock? Same with C12 and C13, both parallel 33n. Are there any unicorn advantages in there that I'm missing rather than using a single cap of appropriate value (like 680n and 68n respectively)?
Also: why is the output electro C15 so big value with 100uF? Wouldn't something smaller like 10u do the same job? Or a 3u3 film cap which I happen to have too many off?
Click to expand...
Aw, shoot. The output cap is only 2.2uF (not that it'll make much difference). Copy pasted capacitor fail.
 
Built myself a little clone of it. It works as expected so I'm confident that at the very least my layout is a faithful copy.
 

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But yeah, those doubled up caps had me pulling my hair out. I had to keep checking over and over again because I expected something else to be going on.
 
I don’t want to cast any doubt on your schematic, but is there only one Ge Diode, I only ask as Hudson say twice on the product page that there are 2:
"At the heart of the clipping section lies a pair of germanium diodes chosen for its ‘softer’ response characteristics"
 
Flying said:
I don’t want to cast any doubt on your schematic, but is there only one Ge Diode, I only ask as Hudson say twice on the product page that there are 2:
"At the heart of the clipping section lies a pair of germanium diodes chosen for its ‘softer’ response characteristics"
Click to expand...
Hudson Sidecar Pedal Internal Picture.jpg
 
Ratimus said:
YATS, with asymmetric clipping (LED & Ge+Si) into a Baxandall. Sounds pretty good. A fella on Facebook bought one and took a bunch of gut shots, which he sent to me for tracing. The originals are on vero board, so I feel pretty confident tracing this one just from the pictures (especially since I can keep asking him for component values and such). I'll post the schematic once I draw it up.
Click to expand...
Could the 1N4148 be mistaken for a 1N60P type Ge Diode?
What 2 Legs were linked on the Ge Transistor?
 
music6000 said:
Could the 1N4148 be mistaken for a 1N60P type Ge Diode?
What 2 Legs were linked on the Ge Transistor?
Click to expand...
To be fair, it could very well be a radial diode in a metal can, although the owner of this pedal quoted a part number for a transistor. Honestly, I doubt it matters much, since he also emailed Mike Hudson directly, who told him he uses an "assortment of NOS Russian germanium diodes."
 

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Well, Its definately 1N4148 Silicon, Clear LED?? & GE ? something in those pics, different from my posted Pic.
Maybe he is part Chef & uses what he has in the Pantry!
Not Crazy about Grounding the pedal that way!!!
 
I've seen guts from three different units and they're all slightly different. It's probably a water clear red LED.
 
The commercial build is vero? I've never seen that before. Seems like a PCB would be easier, more consistent, less prone to noise/corrosion etc.
 
D*A*M Red Rooster (at least the ones I've seen) were vero as well. And a friend of mine has a vero-built Keeley Java Boost as well.
 
Thanks for sharing the layout and schematic!!!

Had some time the last few nights to conjure one of these fellas up.

I used an ac187 from my junk door for the clipping. There is a switch to swap the silicone diodes for another LED in the clipping stage. I found I dig that flavor too. The other switch goes from the stock 470nf cap to a 220nf cap in clipping section. The last change I made was an a500k gain pot instead of the a1m, I just didn't need that much gain for my use.

Here is a pic and a quick sound example

Sounds and feels great with my rig. Again thanks for sharing!

sidecar.mp4

drive.google.com drive.google.com


sidecar.jpg

drive.google.com drive.google.com
 
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