Hyped Fuzz no sustain/fizzles out

[artemis_effects]

Hey all,

I’m having an issue with the Hyped Fuzz where Fuzz I and II both fail to sustain below 3-4 o’clock on the Gain pot, fizzling out dying battery style. I’ve built two previously, one of which had this same problem. I replaced one of the transistors and it worked perfectly, so that’s exactly what I’ve done here, but to no avail. I’ve proceeded to replace all the transistors twice now with no noticeable difference. I do own a multimeter but I am not sure how to test transistors with it. There are a lot of settings on the MM and I am kind of an idiot.

Context: A few of my resistor values are off, none by that much, but i think I do have a 27k in place of a 22k. I also am using all TL072s for ICs, which worked on both of my previous FZ-2 builds. This current build is housed with a Gray Ash clone and the wiring is correct (as far as I can tell). Everything does ‘work’ but both fuzz settings are barely registering my picking below very high Gain settings. I accidentally snipped the left leg of the Q3 transistor and there was a huge improvement in sustain, but the Gain knob was pretty much full bore until its turned fully CCw so I don’t really want to settle for that. Additionally, the boost setting has some slight bleed, like a very quiet distortion.

If anyone could provide advice, I’d be tremendously appreciative. I’m sure if anyone does respond they’ll tell me to get a reading on the meter, which I swear I’ll learn how to use, but if this seems non-transistor related, I could use the help!!!

 

[Erik S]

A lot of folks here will reply to troubleshooting threads recommending reflowing solder joints as a first step. Not usually the first thing on my list, but some of your joints do look pretty empty from the component side.

The first thing I’d usually look for if a pedal is working but not functioning as desired is an incorrect component value. That’s where I’ve screwed up most often.

When I’m bored or procrastinating (like now) I’ll pull up the board layout image and spot check values on these threads. It’s fun if if I find an off value, and it lets me practice reading resistor bands. That only works if your pics are clear and well lit enough to see all the color bands and cap labels though. Also helps if you orient all your resistors with the brown tolerance bands facing the same way. I spot checked a few, but nothing jumped out at me.

A regular DMM isn’t going to test your transistors on its own. There are ways I think, but I haven’t bothered to learn them. RG Keen method comes up a lot if you’re looking to understand for real. https://www.freestompboxes.org/viewtopic.php?t=9851

I bought one of these TC1 units as part of my efforts to avoid doing my math homework. Not perfect, but gives you some more info than your DMM will.

https://www.amazon.com/Multi-Function-Pocketable-Multifunctional-Backlight-Transistor/dp/B081K4CM1F/ref=asc_df_B081K4CM1F/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=477379495345&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=2308751065460755672&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1021885&hvtargid=pla-1133584302900&psc=1

 

[artemis_effects]

Hey Erik,

Thanks for the advice! And yeah, I was definitely burning the midnight oil with the build, so my soldering and photo taking suffered. Good to know about the MM too. I bought one with way too many settings which has led to me rarely using it. Good to know about res orientation too. I’m usually pretty thoughtless with any non-polarized comps and just jam em in.

I do think in this case that my issue lies in the transistors, since detaching the emitter of Q3 makes the gain function much closer to how it should, but I could certainly be wrong.

I’ll reflow just to check that off. That’s unfortunately one of the last things I do, so maybe I’ll bump it up in the debugging queue.

 

[Laundryroom David]

Avoid soldering ICs direct to the board unless you are experienced with soldering. They’re reasonably robust fwiw, but you can cook ‘em. Heating the board up a bunch by replacing other components a few times may not be the healthiest environment for your ICs. Which leads me to:

Avoid pulling components you don’t know are bad or wrong. Unlikely to solve problems by chance. Which leads me to the first 2 steps I’d take:

1. Close visual inspection of all components, jacks, switches and solder joints. Are polarized components facing the proper way? Are all your transistor pinouts correct? Did you sub anything that differs from the build doc/silkscreen?

2. Check voltages at the ICs and transistors.

 

[artemis_effects]

Avoid soldering ICs direct to the board unless you are experienced with soldering. They’re reasonably robust fwiw, but you can cook ‘em. Heating the board up a bunch by replacing other components a few times may not be the healthiest environment for your ICs. Which leads me to:

Avoid pulling components you don’t know are bad or wrong. Unlikely to solve problems by chance. Which leads me to the first 2 steps I’d take:

1. Close visual inspection of all components, jacks, switches and solder joints. Are polarized components facing the proper way? Are all your transistor pinouts correct? Did you sub anything that differs from the build doc/silkscreen?

2. Check voltages at the ICs and transistors.

Need to check voltages for sure, but everything else has been inspected. I have always soldered ICs directly and its never been an issue. I have a feeling you didn’t read the ‘Context’ paragraph, which is fine since I did write a lot.

Thank you for your pointers!

 

[Laundryroom David]

Need to check voltages for sure, but everything else has been inspected. I have always soldered ICs directly and its never been an issue. I have a feeling you didn’t read the ‘Context’ paragraph, which is fine since I did write a lot.

Thank you for your pointers!

I read it all and it all informed the pointers. Good luck! Others may have differing advice.