Muzzle Mods?

FamousAmos

New member
Hi all,

I recently built a muzzle and it works great. I am curious however if anyone else who has built these has come across any mods or tweaks they like to do to the circuit to change the response, feel, gating capabilities etc.

While I do enjoy it, I would say my biggest gripe is the sensitivity of the threshold knobs range. To me it seems like it could benefit from spreading the adjustment range out if that makes sense. To clarify, its almost as if the gating is doing very little until you hit 10-11:00, then suddenly it's activated fairly hard/abruptly. Really it seems like all you need is between 10:00 and 1:00. Any less is too little and any more is too much. Even tweaking with the range switch it doesn't seem to really increase the useable range of the threshold knob.
 
I haven't built it but I am familiar with the circuit. Using a 25kA pot might give slightly more fine control in that area, but probably not as much as you want. So, instead, I would suggest limiting the range of the control like you are suggesting.

Switch to a 10kA pot, and it should be wired not PCB mounted. Wire lugs 3 and 2 to the PCB as normal. For lug1, use an 8k2 resistor instead of a wire.

You could go even further and put another 8k2 resistor in place of the lug3 connection, but that might be overkill.
 
Switch to a 10kA pot, and it should be wired not PCB mounted. Wire lugs 3 and 2 to the PCB as normal. For lug1, use an 8k2 resistor instead of a wire.
That’s a pretty cool idea but why not mount the pot with lugs 2 & 3 the snip lug 1 and solder in 8k2 resistor if it’s too tall use an 1/8w.. that might come out pretty clean.
 
I haven't built it but I am familiar with the circuit. Using a 25kA pot might give slightly more fine control in that area, but probably not as much as you want. So, instead, I would suggest limiting the range of the control like you are suggesting.

Switch to a 10kA pot, and it should be wired not PCB mounted. Wire lugs 3 and 2 to the PCB as normal. For lug1, use an 8k2 resistor instead of a wire.

You could go even further and put another 8k2 resistor in place of the lug3 connection, but that might be overkill.
I might have to test this out
 
What I did with the ones I've built is to add a Range pot and a Shift pot, which the LWA Endless Blockade has. Both pots are B10K, the Range pot replaces R7. Lug 2 goes to C7 and Lug 1 goes to C8. The Shift pot replaces R10. Lug 2 goes to R8 and Lug 3 of the Threshold pot, Lug 1 goes Leg 3 of the slide switch, of which you can omit if you want, in which case you place Lug 1 to -9V that Leg 2 of the slide switch was at before. These mods are documented on FreeStompBoxes.org if you want some more info on it.
 
From my notes:

MUZZLE MODS
(Zuul)
ROBERT: Yes, with the pass-through wiring you have three options:
1) Standard Gate (don't plug anything into Key In / Key Out)
2) Standard Muzzle (use Key In only)
3) 4 cable Method (use Key In and Key Out)


SIDECHAIN
MDC #2
Using both jacks for the sidechain passthrough should eliminate any need to split the signal at the source.

Go from your guitar to the sidechain in, then from sidechain out to the rest of your pedals.

Use the in and out (top jacks) to place the gate wherever you'd like - somewhere on your pedalboard before the amp, before delay/reverb in your amp's FX loop, whatever works best for you.

If you have a wah first in your signal chain, you might want to try putting the Muzzle before and after it to see if one works better than the other.



THRESHOLD MOD :::#4
Dr. Don: I found the best solution, for me and my purpose, by leaving the resistors R8 and R10 at their default values (22k and 1k5) and changing the resistor R11 from 220k to 470k.
 
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