My first build. Low tide. Made a mistake. Is this redeemable?

boysenpai

Member
So this is my first build. I heard it was not recommended for beginners, but I've soldered my guitar electronics in the past and also, I just really wish to have Shallow Water for 5+ years and making my own was the only way I could afford it.

It went well until I started to solder chips. It came as a kit but there were no instructions as to how to solder particular components so I googled a lot with each new tier of components. Found a little bag with two chips, found their placing on the pcb, soldered them in. Cut off the residual pin tips. Then I opened next back and I noticed there were these slots and I couldn't pair them with anything. Then I realised these were slots for the chips that I already soldered straight onto the pcb and trimmed their pins.

Will the chips work when soldered straight into the pcb? Or, will the chips slide into the slot and work even with the tips of their pins trimmed? Or should I look for replacement?
 

Attachments

  • pins.jpeg
    pins.jpeg
    330.8 KB · Views: 95
  • pins2.jpeg
    pins2.jpeg
    421.3 KB · Views: 96
  • pins3.jpeg
    pins3.jpeg
    374.2 KB · Views: 100
There was not one in the set I bought. I saw multiple gutshots of Low Tide with that part missing so I didn't think it to be weird. For example, see.
Look closer at that photo---they used SMD versions of both the 2SK208 and the J201, so it is there.

Did you receive an extra J201? I believe that may work in that position as well.
 
SMD version is the little three pin nasty bugger that doesn't go through the board?

Yeah. The board was designed to use either or, depending on what parts you have on hand, as some through-hole transistors are getting harder to find.

I have J201 and I soldered the SMD there too. So I suppose I basically put two of the same components at the same position?

Oh, yeah, definitely only use one in each spot.
 
So I can remove one and put it in the place of Q1, right?

Yeah. Should be fine. Depending on how comfortable you are with SMD, that might be the easier one to remove, as it may be tricky to get the through-hole pins out cleanly.

Just be careful not to let the soldering iron sit on the pins too long, so you don't damage anything. I find some tiny tweezers very helpful with SMD parts.
 
Yeah. Should be fine. Depending on how comfortable you are with SMD, that might be the easier one to remove, as it may be tricky to get the through-hole pins out cleanly.

Just be careful not to let the soldering iron sit on the pins too long, so you don't damage anything. I find some tiny tweezers very helpful with SMD parts.
Well, I might have already burn the SMD then. We'll see. I think it will be actually easier to remove the J201 because I sat it in a slot. I have extra slots to use so I can basically put it from slot to slot. I don't feel like messing the SMD to be honest. Too tiny.
 
Well, I might have already burn the SMD then. We'll see. I think it will be actually easier to remove the J201 because I sat it in a slot. I have extra slots to use so I can basically put it from slot to slot. I don't feel like messing the SMD to be honest. Too tiny.
Yeah definitely just take the J201 from the slot and put it in the 2SK208 slot. AFAIK they're interchangeable (at least in this case) so it's fine. Well, at least the 2SK208 can be replaced with a J201, I hope the J201 can also be replaced with the 2SK208 then?

You can leave the extra socket in place in the J201 position, that doesn't hurt anything.

(socket is the correct term for slot I think)
 
Well, I might have already burn the SMD then. We'll see. I think it will be actually easier to remove the J201 because I sat it in a slot. I have extra slots to use so I can basically put it from slot to slot. I don't feel like messing the SMD to be honest. Too tiny.

Oh yeah, sorry--I didn't see the socket under the J201. That's much easier!
 
I'm messing with the trim pots and controls. I'm not sure if it works correctly because the controls are pretty wild but the more I watch demos and replicate the settings the more I'm confident it does what it's supposed to do. I'm almost in tears, goddamn it.

I will learn how to tame the beast and eventually come here to either confirm it was a success or come here for more advice. You've been so incredibly helpful that it caught me off guard. Thanks to all of you! (so far, haha)
 
Excellent well done to you

Here's a wee celebration tune

Haha, I heard this song couple days back in my local café, really like the kinks version too.

I have a suspicion something ain't quite right but I'll leave it be for today. This is so much fun. I'm honestly happy for the complications. Any tips for where to further educate myself on this lovely hobby? I'm strongly a trial and error type of person but I love it so much I might be able to learn this by the book.
 
Chucks boneyard on here there's a few tutorials on fets etc the man knows what he's tawkin about

I'd say you've done a fine job considering you took this build with a herculean amount of components as a first foray into pedal building and looking at your build the soldering looks pretty good

The fact you only pulled one pad desoldering an IC ain't too shabby either

If there's any specific subject you want to look at PM me and I'll see what I've got in PDF format

Let me know your electronics experience etc and I should have a few oldies but goodies kicking about
 

Great work @boysenpai and I love your persistence. The lowtide is a pretty ballsy first pedal to build. I would recommend that you have a go with some simple low part count ODs or fuzzes next.

This thread is also very useful.
 
Congratulations on getting it running! Having to desolder an IC, not to mention having such a complex build as your first build, that really is something to be proud of!
I'm messing with the trim pots and controls. I'm not sure if it works correctly because the controls are pretty wild but the more I watch demos and replicate the settings the more I'm confident it does what it's supposed to do. I'm almost in tears, goddamn it.

I will learn how to tame the beast and eventually come here to either confirm it was a success or come here for more advice. You've been so incredibly helpful that it caught me off guard. Thanks to all of you! (so far, haha)
The controls aren't too bad once you get your head around them. Here are more in-depth explanations of the trimpots and how to set them up https://forum.pedalpcb.com/threads/low-tide-no-modulation.10898/#post-109633, but the tl;dr is "Set the BBD so that you get the most modulation with the least amount of distortion", and "the gate trimmer just controls the range of the Gate pot, so set it to where the Gate pot is the most useful from start to end". The DIP switches are literally just a boost and a pad, so one increases the signal coming in to the pedal, the other decreases. Depending on your setup use one or the other - not both. You can also leave both off.

Once the trimmers are fine, the controls are not that tough to figure out. Volume and mix are self-explanatory - you might need to change volume when changing the mix though, but you will notice that from the signal dropping or being too loud. Gate sets the sensitivity a low pass envelope filter - so it adds a low pass (as in, it cuts the high frequencies but lets lows through), and it reacts to playing, so when you play hard it lets more signal through, if you play soft it lets less signal through. It might be most useful to set the trimmer so that with the pot fully open you don't get the low pass effect, and with the pot fully closed you get a very muddy signal - so you get the whole range on the pot.

So we have Rate, Skew and Depth left. The thing about the Low Tide is that it's not quite like a chorus pedal or a phaser. It shifts the pitch of your signal around in random intervals. Once you understand that, it's easier to understand the controls too. Rate controls how often the pitch changes, Depth controls how much the pitch changes (or in other words, how deep is the change in pitch), and Skew controls how quickly the pitch goes to where it's going. So Skew completely off means the change is instant, with more skew the change is slower and the pitch glides smoothly from your normal pitch to the modulated depth.

I usually use it with Depth and Rate a bit over half, and Rate a bit under half, Mix full, Volume to taste, and Gate so that it cuts out the high frequency whine from the BBD chip (that is normal). With a clean sound and delay and reverb I could play chords with that for ages. Another fun thing is to set the gate more aggressive so you get the envelope filter thing and play single notes. If you want a more chorus-like sound, set the mix to around half (so the pitch-shifted signal and dry signal both interact together, causing chorusing).

One final note, I (and someone else too) had a sharp "pop" in the attack of my notes with the gate fully open, but I got that fixed by just lowering the gate trimmer, just in case that also happens to you.
 
Back
Top