NGD! What? Again.......??? 10-29-23 Demo added

MichaelW

Well-known member
Uhm......yes:)

Ok this was total impulse buy. Fender and PRS are both blowing out excess inventory and there's some really good deals to be had out there.

Fender has me on text, and sent me a coupon code I couldn't refuse. So I used it on one of the new Squier Stratosonics.

Some history, I remember when Fender came out with these Stratosonics back in the mid 2000's. They only had them a short while.

I've been going back and forth about whether this was the most stupid idea I can imagine to whether it's the most ingenious, heh.

I think I've landed on the latter. Mashing up two of my favorite guitars, a Strat and a Les Paul Special.

I love the ergonomics of the Strat, probably still one of my most favorite guitar shapes. Between the Strat and Tele, I just love how they sit in my lap and how I can mold myself around them. Leo had it right all those decades ago.

I also love the sound of P90's, probable not a great secret if you've been following my gear escapades here on the forum hahaha.

So some of the things I like about these new Squier Stratosonics vs the Fender ones from the 2000's.
First off, the price, I recall the Fenders were like 1500-1600 back then. But they're USA made.

The originals were short scale but 9.5 radius. The new Squiers are 12" radius, which I like a lot better since it allows me to use a Gibson style tailpiece.
The originals used a proprietary tailpiece that was adjustable to radius as well as intonation. Probably much more functional but I thought/think they're fugly.

I also didn't quite care for the colors of the original Fenders. They were "neither fish nor fowl" as I recall. Not really Fender colors or Gibson colors.
The new Squier ones come in a Gibson transparent cherry and a TV Yellow.

I kinda wanted the cherry one but it's a crap shoot whether you get one with decent looking grain. The Squiers use solid Okoume bodies, the original Fenders used chambered Honduran mahogany. I actually like Okoume a lot. It's sometimes called African Mahogany (along with Sapelle and Khaya) but it's not a true mahogany. Yet it shares many of the same properties and is generally lighter. There's a lot of custom bass makers that charge extra for Okoume.
Problem is, at the Squier price point they are multi piece bodies and can look crappy under a transparent finish. So I got the TV Yellow.
I have to say, that they did an EXCELLENT authentic TV yellow finish. Much better than my Epiphone Les Paul Special (which is opaque).

Once again, I am blown away at the build quality of the Squier guitars. I can't think of a good reason I'd ever buy a Mexican or even Corona made Fender when you can get usually BETTER build quality in a Squier. The action was set up perfect out of the box, the nut was cut perfectly.

The fret work was really well done, frets completely level and fret end dressing quite well done.

Having said that, I still dressed the frets to my liking and polished the frets to a high shine. But I did not have to do any leveling. Neck profile is a bit on the thin side for me, as most stock Fenders and Squiers are, but it's playable.

The wrap tailpiece that came on the guitar is "Epiphone" branded, which is interesting. But I already knew about this from the reviews I've watched on the guitar. So basically, it's crap pot metal and the studs were really loose in the bushings (see pics below).

The pickups actually sound pretty good. They are very low wind P90's. (Like 6.4k neck, 6.7k bridge). I've heard some reviewers say that it doesn't sound "Gibsony" enough. Well, that's true, they're a bit too low wind but they do sound GOOD to me.

Here's a shot of it after I finished all my mods and "massaging". I forgot to take a pic of it out of the box.

IMG_6005.JPG

Check out the gorgeous TV Yellow finish, just translucent enough to show some grain. This is much better than the TV Yellow on my Epiphone LP Special.
IMG_6001.JPG

IMG_6002.JPG

Here's the bridge that came on it.......same bridge that came on my Epi.
IMG_5984.JPG

This was definitely a problem that needed addressing.....

PH_9cU.gif


So first upgrade was new steel bushings and some locking studs from Faber.
IMG_5985.JPG

The Faber kits come with a metric bolt to make stud removal easy. Just run it down into the old studs until it bottoms out and pushes the old bushing out.
IMG_5986.JPG

IMG_5987.JPG

IMG_5988.JPG

Making sure the ground wire is in the right place on the lower stud. Super important to ground the bridge. I usually pull the wire out a little before installing new studs to make sure it's making contact when I drive the new studs in.

IMG_5989.JPG

You can use the same removal bolt to drive the new studs in. If you're not comfortable with a hammer or mallet, you can use a large C clamp or even your drill press to push the new bushings in....

I've done this so many times that I have no qualms about whanging away at my guitar with a claw hammer:)

IMG_5990.JPG

Continued in next post......
 
Last edited:
Once I've got the new studs installed I test for continuity, I don't want to find out further down stream that I didn't make proper contact with the ground wire.

IMG_5991.JPG

Next up is my all time favorite wrap around bridge, the Music City bridge. You have to actually play one of these to believe the difference it makes. Even just acoustically. It's a worthwhile upgrade.

IMG_5992.JPG

The is my first time using the Faber Locking studs. They are a bit fiddly to install and adjust but the end result was great! They have a second set of reverse threads cut into the stud and a small flat nut with a special wrench that tightens up against the bridge.
The fiddly part is that when loose, you'll have some bit of forward lean angle on any wrap tail bridge, which affects the action and intonation.
But when it's tight you can't adjust either. So I had to get it close then "guesstimate" how much it would move when I tightened it.
Took a couple of tries to get the action set right.
IMG_5993.JPG

I've mentioned before how much I like Indian Laurel as a fingerboard rosewood substitute. Much better than Pau Ferro.
Laurel feels more like rosewood to me. The FB that came on my guitar was very even grained and already very rosewood looking.

IMG_5994.JPG

It was playable out of the box, but I still like to smooth it out a bit with a razor blade.
IMG_5995.JPG

Like my Epiphone ES339 I experimented a bit with darkening the fingerboard.
IMG_5996.JPG

The wiring was a rats nest. I have not touched any of the electronics yet as I'm not completely sure where I want to go with this guitar.
But the toggle has to go, it's super stiff, and the jack is super cheap, it needs to be swapped out for a Switchcraft as well. The pots are Push Pull pots for Series/Parallel switching as well as In/out of Phase switching. (more on that later)
IMG_5997.JPG

Peek under the pickguard.....

One option I'm thinking about is to relocate the toggle switch to the lower horn (Like a Jazzmaster) and add a 3rd or maybe even a 4th pot.
There "might" be enough room in the control cavity to convert this into a 4 knob setup.
IMG_5998.JPG

The stock nut was "graphite". Looks like black plastic to me. I replaced it with a bone nut.
IMG_6003.JPG

Continued in next post......
 
Last edited:
After staining the fingerboard and wiping it down, I rubbed in a couple coats of Howards "Feed n Wax".

I've used that stuff on my kitchen cutting boards but never on fingerboards. I LIKE IT! I think I'll be using it more often.
It buffs to a really nice sheen and feels great!

IMG_6006.JPG

With the Faber locking studs, there's NO bridge lean! As I said, fiddly to adjust but once it's dialed in you never have to touch it again!
IMG_6007.JPG


So I played it quite a bit yesterday after dialing it in and setting it up.
Man, it feels great to play and it's a bit of a wierd feeling with the cross between the LP and a Strat.

The stock pickups do NOT sound very Gibsony but they also don't sound bad, they've definitely got their own thing going on.

The fancy switching is something I could take or leave. Putting 2 P90's in Series is never something that's interested me. There's just not enough of a change in sound. Unlike wiring a 4 way Tele switch for series/parallel, where the series sound is really usable.

The In/Out of phase sound is kinda cool but a bit of a novelty. Not sure how much I'd ever use it. Out of Phase clean sound with a flanger or chorus is pretty cool though.

So I'm still mulling over what I want to do about pickups and wiring schema.

One option is to leave it as is, use the stock pickups but just upgrade the wiring. SwitchCraft toggle and jack, CTS Push-Pull pots.
Another option is to do away with the push pull stuff, which I typically detest. And just wire it up with 50's wiring.

In which case I'd probably swap the pickups for something with a bit more meat.

And the last option I'm considering it turn it into something much closer to an LP Special, hotter pickups, 4 knob controls, relocate the toggle.

That would require some routing. For the toggle at the very least, if not also the control cavity.

Not sure what I'm going to do yet. Not in any hurry. I'm enjoying it the way it is for now with the stock configuration.

I'll try to get a demo up with my next pedal demo.
 
Great stuff as always Michael.

The neck that came with the Esquire has an indian-laurel fb. If you decide to put one together, I'd be happy to send it to you. It would benefit from your wood treatment and probably better tuners.
 
Great stuff as always Michael.

The neck that came with the Esquire has an indian-laurel fb. If you decide to put one together, I'd be happy to send it to you. It would benefit from your wood treatment and probably better tuners.
Thanks @fig ! I appreciate the offer! But I have a couple of spare Tele necks, begging to be used heh.
 
  • Like
Reactions: fig
Looks great! I saw the Phil McKnight video about these just last night. It reminds me a lot of those TC-90s that Fender made for a while. They were telecaster bodies with the cutaway added to the top side, semi hollow, and two p90s.
 
Looks great! I saw the Phil McKnight video about these just last night. It reminds me a lot of those TC-90s that Fender made for a while. They were telecaster bodies with the cutaway added to the top side, semi hollow, and two p90s.
The TC-90's were out around the same time, mid 2000's.

They were cool too! Set neck. But 9.5 radius with a TOM tailpiece, I don't know if they modified the TOM saddles to be 9.5 or not.
Also, Duncan pickups.

This eventually became the Jim Adkin's model Tele. I've always been really interested in one of those Jim Adkins Tele's. You can get a stripped body from Stratoshphere and roll your own. I've been eyeing them on Ebay.

TC90.jpg
 
Very cool guitar and lots of work, as always, to make it yours. I'm sure it will serve you well.

I also heard in demos that it doesn't really sound like a Gibson but raising the pole pieces like you did definitely makes P90s sound more like a Fender, without the trademark midrange bite.
I would jack up that bridge P90 until it's 2-3mm from the strings, I would lower the pole pieces flush with the cover and then I'd make small adjustments to balance volume across the strings.
The hum will stay the same level but the output will increase, so it'll be hotter and quieter.
Apologies if you already knew that, I just typed all this stuff without thinking.

I'm thinking of replacing the bridge and studs in my Coronet with Faber parts but I'm not sure what the difference would be. My Epiphone bridge tilts forward but it's very stable, no rattling.
 
Apologies if you already knew that, I just typed all this stuff without thinking.
Never a need to apologize my friend, I'm always learning new stuff and open to ideas and suggestions!

To be honest, I have not touched the pole screws. Or for that matter, I haven't even adjusted the pickup heights at all.
I just left everything the way it was out of the box (as far as the pickups are concerned) until I decide what I'm going to do with the guitar.

Re: the Faber studs, I'd recommend not spending the money on them if you're happy with how the Coronet sounds.
They're somewhat addicting and once you've tried the Faber stuff it's hard to go back. Then, you'll wind up wanting to upgrade ALL your guitars. like I wound up doing hahaha.
 
Re: the Faber studs, I'd recommend not spending the money on them if you're happy with how the Coronet sounds.
They're somewhat addicting and once you've tried the Faber stuff it's hard to go back. Then, you'll wind up wanting to upgrade ALL your guitars. like I wound up doing hahaha.
I'd like a bridge that says Squier under it
 
That’s my kinda strat! And TV yellow too! I’ve been half heartedly looking for something with p90s for a while. Another contender would be an Epi SG like the green one you picked up recently, but I think I like the squier better.
 
@Bricksnbeatles

Been giving some thought to your suggestion of installing a Bass Contour/Focus control.
(And moving the toggle to the lower horn.

I'm not sure what values G&L or Reverend uses but I think both are pretty effective.

I came across this circuit.

But from what I've read, a 1M pot might be more effective. Like a C1M.

Thoughts?

Bass Contour.jpg
 
For reference on bass-cut circuits:

-Rickenbacker- 47nF (Fixed bass-cut on the bridge pickup of basses)
-Hofner- 10nF (Fixed bass-cut on the bridge pickup of both basses and guitars IIRC)
-G&L- 2n2F (Variable bass cut with 1M pot on guitars and bass)

I personally like 4n7 with a C1M pot for a capacitor-based guitar bass-cut
 
@Bricksnbeatles

Been giving some thought to your suggestion of installing a Bass Contour/Focus control.
(And moving the toggle to the lower horn.

I'm not sure what values G&L or Reverend uses but I think both are pretty effective.

I came across this circuit.

But from what I've read, a 1M pot might be more effective. Like a C1M.

Thoughts?

View attachment 59133
This is what I just put in my bc rich
 
Back
Top