Noisy Pauper
- Thread starter ericrudd
- Start date
ericrudd
Member
So pardon my ignorance, but I’m not sure if I’m supposed to measure this with power applied to circuit. But with power or no power the readings were about the same.
with my meter set to diode mode, it displays (with no power)...
D2 : 701
D4: 720
D3: 713
D1: 720
They all display slightly lower in the low 700’s with the power turned on. Does this represent .7v?
Your meter should indicate somehow that’s it’s in millivolts, so I’m sure those are all good (pedalhacker is a reputable seller anyway).
along with the advice to cleanthe solder side of the board, I’d say check for continuity everywhere you should have it (especially in the area of those switches). An audio prI’ve is often a useful tool as well.
along with the advice to cleanthe solder side of the board, I’d say check for continuity everywhere you should have it (especially in the area of those switches). An audio prI’ve is often a useful tool as well.
ericrudd
Member
Ok. So I may be on to something. I was looking at the DPDT switch, checking continuity. I noticed that the only time I got the tone to sound was when the lead was touching the tip of some of the lugs. They were all loaded up with solder, but it’s as if the mound was not fully conductive. I used some flux wick to remove the old solder, then added more, taking care to get more of it down in the PCB than mounded on the lugs. Afterward, I noticed that the measurements at the MA856’s went down to the 680’s and I’m now getting an overdrive sound out of the pedal. Whoohoo. And the DPDT switch does something now...overdrive sounds in top and bottom position and cleaner (and a bit louder) in the center. I’m wondering if I’m getting the best connection at each of the six lugs.
Pedal is still very buzzy. I am using a single coil Tele and my electric in my house isn’t very quiet as some other locations. I live in a 1955 house with original wiring (no ground). I’m wondering if it might quiet down once everything is back in the enclosure. But I’m making progress.
the PCB is so junky from connecting and disconnecting things. I’m not sure if it’s possible to salvage but I’ll keep trying. I’ve got parts to build another cleaner one, but I’d like to learn as much as I can on this one.
Pedal is still very buzzy. I am using a single coil Tele and my electric in my house isn’t very quiet as some other locations. I live in a 1955 house with original wiring (no ground). I’m wondering if it might quiet down once everything is back in the enclosure. But I’m making progress.
the PCB is so junky from connecting and disconnecting things. I’m not sure if it’s possible to salvage but I’ll keep trying. I’ve got parts to build another cleaner one, but I’d like to learn as much as I can on this one.
Last edited:
ericrudd
Member
A few general questions. Any tips for fully cleaning out a pad hole, one that seems to have a leftover thread of wire in it from an old connection? I’ve tried heating it up and picking at it with needle nose pliers. Is threaded lead wire preferable over a solid core wire?
Also, what makes a big mound of solder not conductive? You would think that a lug covered in solder would have no problem being conductive.
Also, what makes a big mound of solder not conductive? You would think that a lug covered in solder would have no problem being conductive.
ericrudd
Member
What I think may be happening is that these three ways have a rib of plastic running down the center, which allows it to “rock” along that axis. I think the one I installed is listing to starboard and thus the lugs on that side are raised, minimizing a good connection? I wonder if a little Dremel tool might make it more flush.
Yes, the Enclosure will create Shielding.
Critical: Make sure you remove the Powder Coat from around the holes for the Input & Output jacks inside the Enclosure
Blobbing solder is caused by Lack of heat, Crappy solder wire or your Iron is not clean or tinned properly.
.
Critical: Make sure you remove the Powder Coat from around the holes for the Input & Output jacks inside the Enclosure
Don't touch it, It's Listing coz you didn't push it on firmly & evenly, it should be fitted in the Enclosure.
Blobbing solder is caused by Lack of heat, Crappy solder wire or your Iron is not clean or tinned properly.
.
ericrudd
Member
Thanks, Music. So you’re saying that in the future I should push it onto the board firmly so that it rests evenly? (I plan on making a second if this turns out). To me, that middle plastic ridge will prevent it from laying “flush” against the top of the board, but I’ll trust your input.
Best to install all pots and switches in the enclosure (snug but loose enough that you can adjust if needed). Then insert the board on all the Pots and switches and solder it up there in the box. (I often take it all out of the box at this point to test before doing the offboard wiring).
This way, there aren’t stressed on your solder joints when you install in the box.
This way, there aren’t stressed on your solder joints when you install in the box.
Barry
Well-known member
I mount the pots into the board attach switches to outside of the enclosure then lower board and pots onto face of enclosure and switches, get everything seated just right then solder, footswitch & LED can be done this way too, then I attach power jack coupler and jacks, test and install in to the enclosure.
ericrudd
Member
Well, holy crap. Removed the powder coat from around jacks, jammed everything in, plugged in and it’s DEAD Quiet!! So happy!!
The bad news is, earlier today I wicked off the solder from the three way switch in an effort to redo and get a better connection. But I think I wanked it again, because although the unit is now noise-free, I have my original problem of little to no distortion. But at least I know what’s causing that.
Yes...I have learned so much. This off board wiring is some fragile sh^*. You can’t keep taking things in and out and expect those thin threads to hold up. This is what I’m using for wiring.....
Remington Industries 24UL1007STRRED UL1007 24 AWG Gauge Stranded Hook-Up Wire, 300V, 0.0201" Diameter, 100' Length, Red https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NB3T4MI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_s.FUEb03RGGR5
You guys are the best. I’m learning so much. Thank you. I’ll be rebuilding a NEVE console in no time!!!
The bad news is, earlier today I wicked off the solder from the three way switch in an effort to redo and get a better connection. But I think I wanked it again, because although the unit is now noise-free, I have my original problem of little to no distortion. But at least I know what’s causing that.
Yes...I have learned so much. This off board wiring is some fragile sh^*. You can’t keep taking things in and out and expect those thin threads to hold up. This is what I’m using for wiring.....
Remington Industries 24UL1007STRRED UL1007 24 AWG Gauge Stranded Hook-Up Wire, 300V, 0.0201" Diameter, 100' Length, Red https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NB3T4MI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_s.FUEb03RGGR5
You guys are the best. I’m learning so much. Thank you. I’ll be rebuilding a NEVE console in no time!!!
ericrudd
Member
Music6000, this should be required viewing for newbies. The second video is so educational.
The cleaning video was oddly peaceful to watch. It was also very informative to see how the solder interacts with the iron and it's various stages of dirty/oxidations. I like the Christmas music at the end.
Thank you!!!
The cleaning video was oddly peaceful to watch. It was also very informative to see how the solder interacts with the iron and it's various stages of dirty/oxidations. I like the Christmas music at the end.
Thank you!!!
ericrudd
Member
I've been reading some posts about folks testing their boards before installing in the enclosure. But that seems like it would be pretty complicated to set up with these pre-made PCB's. I'm not sure how you would solder test leads, etc, to the board.
I'm thinking that the most prudent thing to do would be to test continuity on the board as best you can and visual inspection and hope you didn't fry out a component. As you guys have suggested, there does seem to be some on board tests that can be done....the voltage across diodes, etc.
I'm thinking that the most prudent thing to do would be to test continuity on the board as best you can and visual inspection and hope you didn't fry out a component. As you guys have suggested, there does seem to be some on board tests that can be done....the voltage across diodes, etc.
Test Box (BUILD ONE NOW)
My old test rig has run its course and I had this flimsy enclosure kicking around so I ordered up a few speaker terminals and a 3pdt toggle and went to town. It’s bar none the easiest thing you can cobble together that will also be one of the most useful things on your bench. All there is...
forum.pedalpcb.com
ericrudd
Member
I wanted to first thank you all for helping talk me through my first build in about 40 years. (the last being a Heathkit metal detector back in Jr. High School.)
After beating the crap out of my first PCB and learning as I went, I decided to scrap it all and try again. I’m a bit of a perfectionist when it comes to certain things, and I have recently discovered that pedal building may be one of them.
I finished my build today and I’m so happy to report that “it’s a boy!!” Clean...externally, internally and sonically...my new Pauper sounds great!!! (Yes, there is a little insulation showing on the one lead of the output jack, but it’s well soldered otherwise. I also wasn’t able to fully get the shrink wrap on that lead, due to contraction from soldering....one more little thing to avoid next time)
Here is some documentation.
After beating the crap out of my first PCB and learning as I went, I decided to scrap it all and try again. I’m a bit of a perfectionist when it comes to certain things, and I have recently discovered that pedal building may be one of them.
I finished my build today and I’m so happy to report that “it’s a boy!!” Clean...externally, internally and sonically...my new Pauper sounds great!!! (Yes, there is a little insulation showing on the one lead of the output jack, but it’s well soldered otherwise. I also wasn’t able to fully get the shrink wrap on that lead, due to contraction from soldering....one more little thing to avoid next time)
Here is some documentation.
Similar threads
- Question
