NPVNW-Day! Classic Vibe 60's Jazzmaster Redux

MichaelW

Well-known member
New Pickups, Vibrato, Neck, Wiring.....!

I posted about this guitar when I got it in this thread.

Honestly, after doing my bit with it, it played and sounded beautiful. The CV line from Squier are some of my favorite affordably priced guitars. There's not one of them that don't punch way above their weight class and they all look great and the stock pickups are all very good.

Having said that, I'm am incessant tinkerer and had always planned to do some upgrades. I really was not planning to put a new neck on it but the more I played the stock neck the more I didn't like it. There's nothing wrong with it, just the profile felt a little weird to me.

So recently at the Fender.com Labor Day sale I picked up a new neck and some Fender Pure Vintage 65 pickups for ridiculously cheap. It just happened that these two accessories I needed was 30% off if purchased together and then I had a Capitol One Shopping coupon to stack on top of that.
I like nice stuff, and I am blessed with having some really nice guitars. But I also LOVE a great bargain!

The neck I got was a Fender Player Series Jazzmaster neck with the Pau Ferro fingerboard. I know this neck profile and knew that it would fit me well.
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These Pau Ferro fingerboard necks come from Fender a bit "unfinished". It's a little disappointing that they come this way on their finished Mexican Strats and tele's as well. I find that the wood is rough and needs some work, so that's the first thing I worked on.

Since I was working on the wood part and needed to sand it at some point, I masked off the frets themselves so they wouldn't get too scratched up. I'll do a fret level and polish later. (I did not document that as you've seen my process in both my P90 Tele and first Jazzmaster report.

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Using a razor blade I started with scraping the fretboard to start smoothing it out and get it less rough feeling. Not sure if this pic shows up well but this is the before (right) and after (left) scraping. You can see how rough the FB comes stock.

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A little bit of a different angle....
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After scraping, I rolled the the fingerboard edges like I've documented elsewhere. I finish sanded it with 2400 micro mesh pads.

Next I soaked it with a couple coats of Danish Oil.
I let the Danish oil sit for about 20 minutes, wiped it off, second coat, another 20 minutes, wiped that off then a couple coats of F1 fingerboard oil.

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The plastic nut that came on the neck had to go, those things are crap and can rob you of tone. After oiling, I buffed it out. Forgot to snap a pic at that stage but it came out beautifully smooth. Here's a pic after it was all done.
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This neck comes drilled for the modern style Fender sealed tuners....which I detest. I'm a fan of the Gotoh vintage style inline tuners and usually use them on most of my F-style builds. But for this build, I came across these Wilkinson vintage style tuners. The packaging looks suspiciously identical to the Gotoh tuners. So for $27 (less than 1/2 the price of the Gotoh's) I decided what the heck, I'd give them a shot. I can always return them if I didn't like them. VERY pleasantly surprised, I believe they are actually the same OEM Gotoh tuners. They feel the same to me, work the same. So I think I may have found my new tuners! Can't beat the price.

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Since the peghead was drilled out for 10mm bushings, I had to get some conversion bushings to make the Vintage style tuners fit. I usually have to pinch my nose, hold my breath and make a face and pony up for the Stew Mac 3/8" conversion bushings. Like everything else Stew Mac, they are stupidly priced.
But for this build I found some inexpensive Kluson ones on Amazon and decided to give them a try.

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They look right on the headstock and work great! I may have found a new alternative to Stew Mac.
I had to do a slight bit of reaming to get them to fit. And I mean SLIGHT. Basically I'm just scraping a layer of finish off with the reamer.
You want to be REAL careful not to over do it here and take too much off. Half a turn of the reamer, then check, another half turn then check again.

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You want to wind up with the hole wide enough for the bushing to sit in about 1/2 way before pressing.
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There are elaborate contraptions made to seat bushings, or some people like to use clamps. I've done all different ways but the easiest and most efficient way I've found is just to tap it in with a plastic hammer. MAKE SURE the headstock is laying FLAT on your work surface before tapping. If it isn't going in with a few taps, then don't force it. Pop it out and ream a little more.

Continued in next post.....
 
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These look correct, not too overly big. They're a bit shiny, and I'm not sure it's really nickel as they claim. But functionally they work great.

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The neck fit in the pocket was not the best. You can see a slight bit of overhang here but it's not noticeable unless you look for it.
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Here's the new pick ups installed and waiting for some CTS pots to finish the wiring.

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I totally spaced out and didn't snap any pics of the wiring process but this was my first Jazzmaster wiring and it's a biotch!
Lots of crap going on in a Jazzmaster.
But I replaced everything and wired it to vintage 60's spec with one exception.

At the suggestion of @thewintersoldier and from an interesting blog post by Jason Lollar I decided to install a 250k Pot for the lead circuit volume control. All the other pots are stock vintage values (1 meg tone, 1 meg vol/50k tone on the Rhythm circuit).

All CTS pots, all the switches were replaced with Switchcraft switches. I had to replace the angle bracket for the Rhythm circuit pots as well as the thumbwheels to fit the USA CTS pot sizes. .0033 caps in both circuits and I used Mallory caps on this build.

I also think I have found my perfect treble bleed circuit values. 1nf cap with a 150k carbon comp resistor in parallel. I used a WIMA cap and it's the best sounding taper as well as tone on any of my guitars. It's perfect. preserves the exact tone as you roll off the volume.

Last piece I swapped was the Vibrato. Music Zoo was blowing out the American Vintage JM vibrato for $57. So I snagged one.
It's a lot heavier than the stock one that came on the Squier. I was slightly annoyed that the new vibrato was binding at the action where the trem arm socket comes through. But 5 minutes with a round file fixed that and it's smooth as silk now.

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Nut cut, intonated, all strung up, set up and ready to rock!
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I'm still waiting on some cream Witch Hat knobs to complete the 60's look but actually these temp black ones don't look to bad.

I love how these pickups sounds. Richer, more depth and complexity than the stock pickups. If I hadn't seen these on sale I probably would have gotten a pair of Lollars (And spent hundreds more). The 250k volume pot works well. And as @thewintersoldier said, there's still PLENTY of brightness on tap, but without that "overly bright" sound. Definitely a "thicker" than typical vintage JM sound. But I like it!!


Also absolutely love the neck profile on this new neck. I've always like the Fender Standard neck profiles. It's not as "perfect" as the AllParts TRO neck profile but for "off the shelf" it suits me well.

So it needs to sit under tension for a few days before a final set up tweak and she'll be ready for a demo:)
 

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Beautiful work! I’m curious if you’ve had any experience with rewiring the rhythm circuit as a series configuration rather than just the neck pickup. That’s a mod I’ve been interested in for awhile but haven’t done myself yet.
 
Beautiful work! I’m curious if you’ve had any experience with rewiring the rhythm circuit as a series configuration rather than just the neck pickup. That’s a mod I’ve been interested in for awhile but haven’t done myself yet.
No experience, this is my first JM. I did look at a bunch of mods. The one that looks the most interesting to me is the Dual Volume control mod.
Basically makes the two main pots as volume control for neck and bridge and the two Rhythm circuit pots as tone controls for each. That seems the most useful to me for all the "two pickup" sounds. I tend to use both pickups whenever possible, most of the sounds I like the best are a blend of the two on my LP style guitars. This was a good resource for me as was this one. I wound up wiring it according to Fralin's diagram.
 
Wow great job!

The Jazzmaster is my dream guitar since I play surf. Mine will have a phase switch instead of the rhythm circuit.
I'm going to have it made since after getting my P bass I am now a nitro addict, especially on the neck.
I'm thinking firemist gold with gold anodized pickguard and non-matching headstock in a yet to be decided color.

I have so many questions but I'll limit myself to a couple:

How do you remove a factory nut? They are usually glued in place. I've seen the Dan Erlewine method of sawing down the middle and collapsing the two halves with pliers.

How does the treble bleed behave with fuzz cleanup? I've read it messes with it but there's an SRV clone on YouTube who swears by it.
 
Man, you just tickled my GAS bone, I've kinda been thinking about a worn Fire Mist Gold Strat ever since Pete from the pedal show got his Custom Shop one.

Factory nuts on Fender style guitars are a lot easier than G styles but can still be tricky if there's a lot of finish on the headstock. What you don't want to do is mess up the finish on the last bit of sloped fingerboard that's showing beyond the nut. But on finished guitars I use a sharp razor blade and score along the lines of the nut on both side. Then I use a small block of wood, or in my case I have a solid brass block I use and just give a few taps and you'll see it rock a little bit in the slot, once it moves a little and you've broken the glue seal, grab it with a pair of pliers and gently rock back and forth until it comes out.

Treble bleeds are interesting. You might want to read up on the theory behind them here and here. Here's another good one that lists popular values used. They all will, in some sense work the same depending on how well the fuzz reacts to your guitar signal getting turned down.
The tapers will be different depending on what values you use thus how it cleans up will be different. I've found that FF style fuzzes don't clean up as well as my Gnat fuzz. I used my Gnat on my Pink Floyd demo and at the very end of the demo after the solo, I just turned down my Strat vol knob for a nice rhythm sound.
 
I've been my playing my Squier JM for a while and it definitely needs a treble bleed. I believe both the volume and tone pots are linear. The linear volume is not an issue but the linear tone is useless, it's like an on-off switch at 2. Also the tone cap is too wimpy at 33nF, I'm used to 100nF in my Strat.

So it looks like I'm going to replace the pots after all. Did the CTS pots fit the pickguard or did you have to increase the size of the holes?

Thanks.
 
I've been my playing my Squier JM for a while and it definitely needs a treble bleed. I believe both the volume and tone pots are linear. The linear volume is not an issue but the linear tone is useless, it's like an on-off switch at 2. Also the tone cap is too wimpy at 33nF, I'm used to 100nF in my Strat.

So it looks like I'm going to replace the pots after all. Did the CTS pots fit the pickguard or did you have to increase the size of the holes?

Thanks.
I had to replace everything. I re-did the full harness including the "Rhythm" circuit. If you do that, then you will need to get new pots AND a new bracket for the pots AND new thumbwheels to fit the CTS pots.

If you don't upgrade the the Rhythm circuit then you can use CTS solid shaft pots for the main vol/tone but yes you will need to ream the holes a little bit to get them to fit.
 
I love this. I’m getting GAS to do the electronics in a lot of my guitars now…
I just can't leave well enough alone. Even on pricey guitars, For me customizing it and making the guitar "my own" is all part of what I enjoy about guitar playing (and guitar acquisition). Also, might be because I'm so anal and picky about what I want out of my guitars...... 😛
 
One other thing, I'd highly recommend replacing the lead circuit Volume pot with a 250k Log pot.

Check out this article from Lollar Guitars.

Re: Treble bleeds, check out this post and the links I posted in it.
Thanks for the links. I do like the extra brightness of the 1Meg pot, just not how dark it gets immediately hence the treble bleed. I wonder if ti will alter the taper from linear to something else. From that link posted it seems Fender adds a small resistor in series to alter the taper less.
 
Love this! I have two jazzmasters - one (sunburst) with the same 65 pickups as yours, the other (black body) with hand wound P90s
Both have staytrems - but I never really found the bridge to be an issue.

Im addicted to the offset feel: playing a strat now feels weirdly off and like a toy.
 
Love this! I have two jazzmasters - one (sunburst) with the same 65 pickups as yours, the other (black body) with hand wound P90s
Both have staytrems - but I never really found the bridge to be an issue.

Im addicted to the offset feel: playing a strat now feels weirdly off and like a toy.
I'm the opposite. After years playing a Strat with a Jazzmaster vibrato arm, the actual Jazzmaster vibrato feels stiff and unresponsive. Too hard to move.
On a Strat you can choose how many springs to use, on a Jazzmaster you're stuck with whatever the guitar comes with and the string gauge you use.

The main issue for me is that the arm in my Strat sticks out quite a bit from the block so the lever is very easy to move. In my Jazzmaster the arm is sunk deep in the collet and it's harder to actuate.
I tried using tape like Kevin Shields but that arm clicks and falls off.

Kind of ironic that I bought a Jazzmaster cause everybody was praising the vibrato and I don't like it.
 
One other thing, I'd highly recommend replacing the lead circuit Volume pot with a 250k Log pot.

Check out this article from Lollar Guitars.

Re: Treble bleeds, check out this post and the links I posted in it.
BTW did you go with solid or split shaft?

I'm having trouble finding the pots. They're available from a few shops in Europe, only 15 euros delivery :(
I've also found Bourns pots, I guess they're equally good.
 
I went with Solid shaft pots and as I recall I bought the Fender branded ones off Amazon.
But it really doesn't make a lot of difference, you can get the little brass sleeves to convert a split shaft to solid in order to use the original set screw top hat knobs.

WITH THE EXCEPTION of the Rhythm circuit, those are specialty knobs and a special size. If you can't find there correct ones you can just use Alpha 16mm's. They will fit. And they SHOULD fit the original thumbwheels that came in the guitar.

A I recall I got this kit....which has everything you need, all switchcraft and CTS. Then just swapped out the Volume pot for a 250k.
 
Wow. While not a huge JM fan I love what you have done to this one. The pau ferron board looks beautiful now that you have scraped it and I like what you have done with the electronics. I had always thought that a 250K volume pot would work better - Jazzmasters can be ridiculously bright.

Andare - I like the arm in my Strat to be as low as possible where it comes out of the block. I don't like when there is a length of the arm sticking out of the block before the bend - it really affects how the arm feels to use. The vintage vibrato arms are much better in that they are mounted at an angle into the block. The newer versions where it comes out at 90 degrees are nuts! You have to remove them from the guitar every time you put it away in the case. I like how the old ones can just swing around close to the body when storing.

I have a set of taps and dies I bought very cheaply from an auto parts store. I bought it for working on my motorbike but found that one of the dies is exactly the same size as the thread on a Strat whammy bar. So if the bar sticks out too high I can just thread it a bit more to screw down further into the block. Sometimes I'll need to cut off a little bit to let it fit. Then I use plumber's tap on the threads to help it stop wobbling. It makes a huge difference.
 
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