Pads Done Come Off...

[Coda]

not paying close enough attention, I soldered a pot in upside down. It was hell to remove (new, lead free solder...it’s very sticky, seemingly). Anywho, when I got the pot out, two of the three pads came with it. Is it game over for this PCB? Will it make a difference? Is it fixable?...

 

[fig]

You'll want a second opinion, but I've jumped from the pot lug to the next component in a pinch.

 

[SYLV9ST9R]

You'll want a second opinion, but I've jumped from the pot lug to the next component in a pinch.

Yep, done that too after someone on the forum recommended that.

 

[Coda]

Ok, a follow up. How do I know which side of the resistor to connect the jump to? The schematic has “1” and “2” labels, so how does that correspond to the pcb?

 

[fig]

I think a bit more info will be needed;

What are you building, and which pad was damaged?

 

[Coda]

I think a bit more info will be needed;

What are you building, and which pad was damaged?

Univox Super Fuzz, pads 2 and 3 off of the Balance pot.

 

[fig]

Looks like lug 2 will go to the negative side of C14 and lug 3 will go to the tone switch (the lug with the resistor?).

I'd try jumpers before soldering, or maybe someone can verify?

 

[Coda]

Good catch. I completely overlooked the tone switch. Looks like it would connect to the middle lug of the switch.

Are there any rules for jumps? Which side of the board, regular wire, etc?...

 

[fig]

Good catch. I completely overlooked the tone switch. Looks like it would connect to the middle lug of the switch.

Are there any rules for jumps? Which side of the board, regular wire, etc?...

rules? we don't need no stinkin' rules!

Point A to B and nothing in between. Mind the clearances where necessary. solder-side is usually easier, but you decide.

 

[music6000]

Good catch. I completely overlooked the tone switch. Looks like it would connect to the middle lug of the switch.

Are there any rules for jumps? Which side of the board, regular wire, etc?...

Solder side of the Board, Twist wire in a circle around Pot leg to form a new pad :

 

[Coda]

Solder side of the Board, Twist wire in a circle around Pot leg to form a new pad :

View attachment 11015

I only need to jump red and green. The blue pad is still there.

 

[music6000]

I only need to jump red and green. The blue pad is still there.

I did that because Pad 1 is Green, Pad 2 is Red, Pad 3 is Blue on all Pot Legs !!!
Test for Continuity from Blue Pad 3 to Toggle switch Blue centre pad.

 

[Coda]

I did that because Pad 1 is Green, Pad 2 is Red, Pad 3 is Blue on Pot Legs !!!
Test for Continuity from Blue Pad 3 to Toggle switch Blue centre pad.

Well, I did say I had it in upside down, originally. I just checked the points you specified, and all of them are connected to each other. So this means I’m good, right?

 

[music6000]

Yes, Should be good to go!
Green is Ground.

 

[Coda]

Yes, Should be good to go!
Green is Ground.

Ok. Good. Now I have to make sure that my 1N34A’s are actually 1N34A’s...

 

[music6000]

Ok. Good. Now I have to make sure that my 1N34A’s are actually 1N34A’s...

What is the forward voltage, Are they from Tayda or Ebay?

 

[Coda]

What is the forward voltage, Are they from Tayda or Ebay?

Guitar Parts Plus, .254. It was also pointed out that they could be Schottkeys...

 

[fig]

It's in range of an 1n34A, maybe a bit on the lower end. Could be like an NTE109 maybe?

 

[Coda]

It's in range of an 1n34A, maybe a bit on the lower end. Could be like an NTE109 maybe?

Wouldn't a Schottkey be about .2? I do have some hesitance in using them in this circuit (Super Fuzz). I attempted to build a Tone Machine last autumn, and could never get it to work. I wonder if these diodes were the reason, since they may not be what they are labeled.

 

[music6000]

If this is it, It's not a 1N34A Germanium!
Maybe a 1N60?

1N34A Germanium Diode

1N34A new production diode - great for signal clipping!

guitarpedalparts.com