Small Bear Germanium Setups Question

[joelorigo]

I was able too pick up a 3 knob tone bender setup from Small Bear a few weeks ago:

Transistor Set - 3-Knob Tone Bender NPN All American

Guitar pedals, pedal parts and electronics.

smallbear-electronics.mybigcommerce.com

I have a Kilimanjaro that I have been working on and off on for a while and none of the small amount of transistors I have worked. They said these are good for a tone bender V1 based circuit so I am going to try them.

Anyway, they included a "Ge diode, tested in the circuit." What is this for?

 

[fig]

That's D1. It goes from the base of Q3 to ground (I believe).

 

[Bricksnbeatles]

The Tonebender mk 3 circuit has a germanium diode from the base to ground to deal with temperature stability

 

[fig]

The Tonebender mk 3 circuit has a germanium diode from the collector to ground to deal with temperature stability

The collector? Groovy.
Nope, base.

 

[Bricksnbeatles]

The collector? Groovy.

Whoops. Edited.
I’m not fully awake today

 

[joelorigo]

I see. So in the Kilimanjaro circuit, it is not needed? Stick with the 1N5817 which is the only diode in the circuit?

 

[fig]

That is correct. The 5817 is reverse polarity protection.

You can save the Ge diode and use it in a clipping stage.

 

[joelorigo]

Thank you!

 

[joelorigo]

Actually, one more question. How do I tell the pinout of these transistors? I pasted the wrong link above. Here is the correct one:

Transistor Set - 3-Knob Tone Bender PNP Generic

Guitar pedals, pedal parts and electronics.

smallbear-electronics.mybigcommerce.com

Here's a pic of one of them. No identifying marks that I see.

 

[Coda]

Actually, one more question. How do I tell the pinout of these transistors? I pasted the wrong link above. Here is the correct one:

Transistor Set - 3-Knob Tone Bender PNP Generic

Guitar pedals, pedal parts and electronics.

smallbear-electronics.mybigcommerce.com

Here's a pic of one of them. No identifying marks that I see.

The leg under the tab (to the right in your pick) should be the emitter. Base would be in the middle and collector on the left. I feel like SB would have told you if it wasn’t the standard layout. Best bet is to socket.

 

[joelorigo]

The leg under the tab (to the right in your pick) should be the emitter. Base would be in the middle and collector on the left. I feel like SB would have told you if it wasn’t the standard layout. Best bet is to socket.

Thanks. I am using sockets.

 

[Chuck D. Bones]

If you are buying germanium, you would benefit greatly from owning a transistor tester. Besides measuring electrical parameters, it can be used to confirm the pinout.

 

[andare]

If you are buying germanium, you would benefit greatly from owning a transistor tester. Besides measuring electrical parameters, it can be used to confirm the pinout.

Thinking of buying one of those cheap testers. From what I've seen, they're just as reliable as a Peak.

 

[SillyOctpuss]

Thinking of buying one of those cheap testers. From what I've seen, they're just as reliable as a Peak.

They work just fine but they're not reliable at all from my experience. I've had 3 die in 6 months. Thankfully they're all under warranty but doesn't exactly inspire confidence for when the warranty runs out. I'm just going to buy a peak tbh.

 

[fig]

They work just fine but they're not reliable at all from my experience. I've had 3 die in 6 months. Thankfully they're all under warranty but doesn't exactly inspire confidence for when the warranty runs out. I'm just going to buy a peak tbh.

Were you able to determine what caused the failures? I've never looked at one beyond the pics posted here. Now I'm curious...do they have a MP?

 

[Big Monk]

Thinking of buying one of those cheap testers. From what I've seen, they're just as reliable as a Peak.

I've used mine daily for close to 8 months now. Solid as a rock.

 

[SillyOctpuss]

Were you able to determine what caused the failures? I've never looked at one beyond the pics posted here. Now I'm curious...do they have a MP?

No Tim I haven't. In each case the unit has powered off in the middle of a test and not come back on again. I did read a thread talking about desoldering the battery and reconnecting to 'reset it'. That worked once on one of mine. The others came with a connector for the battery rather than a soldered connection. I just returned them rather than taking them apart any further.

 

[fig]

I suppose they are assembled at various locations with varying practices and QC tolerances.

 

[SillyOctpuss]

I suppose they are assembled at various locations with varying practices and QC tolerances.

Yeah probably. I know other people are happy with theirs but I've been burned too many times now and will just go for a dca55 this time.

 

[Chuck D. Bones]

Mine just passed the 2 year mark and is still running strong, knock on wood. The only problem I've had with it is sometimes I have to wipe off the pads on the board that are for testing SMDs because humidity and dust will accumulate over time and cause leakage.