Solder thoughts

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Coda said:
My house has asbestos siding…I use lead-free solder, but only because I still have a bunch. I’ve had no issues…
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Asbestos is only dangerous when disturbed. Having it on the house or the wrapping of your pipes does no harm... It's when you tear it off and the dust is flying that can get you... That's why you see mesothelioma in guys who worked as boilermakers, steam fitters, etc... if you happen to get exposure once or twice you'll probably be fine... it's continual exposure to the dust that gets people... Lots of old timers were maintenance guys, plumbers, HVAC guys, etc that have the issues
 
Silver Blues said:
Lead does not vapourize at 732F, the boiling point of metallic lead is 3180F (1750C) - none of the components of any solder are volatile at their working temperatures. Thus, thankfully we are not worried about lead vapour when soldering, you're right that it's just the touching and the flux fumes.

Also you guys should try 63/37 solders, they handle much better than the 60/40s 😛
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If only 63/37 was available where I live
 
Silver Blues said:
Lead does not vapourize at 732F, the boiling point of metallic lead is 3180F (1750C) - none of the components of any solder are volatile at their working temperatures. Thus, thankfully we are not worried about lead vapour when soldering, you're right that it's just the touching and the flux fumes.

Also you guys should try 63/37 solders, they handle much better than the 60/40s 😛
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You know I thought that was awfully low for vaporizing when I saw it. As long as it doesn't get in your stomach you're ok, people live long lives with bullets inside them. It's insoluble in water, hydrochloric acid however does dissolve it.

However I do imagine little pieces of lead in your lungs would quickly, if not instantly, lead to copd and death.
 
My first roll of solder was lead free when I started building pedals… was frustrating trying to learn to solder with that crap… Then I did a little research and bought kester 33 67/33 and man what a freaking difference in flow… My joints instantly because better..
I am not worried about a little lead… I grew up pinching lead on my line with my teeth fishing all the time… I’ll totally throw down a hot dog at the bench while soldering … Ain’t skeered…
 
damianvila said:
As long as you don't solder like this, you'll be ok:

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(For those who don't know, that's Apple's founder Steve Wozniak).

Lead is dangerous especially if it enters through the mouth (ingesting or inhaling). As long as you don't touch anything that you're going to eat later and you manage the fumes, you really need to wash your hands after touching solder as a preventative measure. Use gloves if you want to avoid any risk of skin absorption (but there are not a lot of info of how dangerous it is to handle lead in its metal form, as studies are more focused in organic and inorganic lead compounds used in the industry). And don't let kids handle anything that has lead, as it's especially harmful for them and their development. Just be cautious.

I do use 60/40, but luckily I don't solder much, so I'm not constantly handling that solder. And I'm thinking of start using the assembly services of PCB manufacturers, that can use lead free solder paste and safer methods of soldering.

But if you decide to use leaded solder, please! don't hold the solder with your mouth. 😝
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Thats awesome. The picture. Me. Too many times to count no idea if there was lead or not.
Would'nt matter anyways cause my house I tasted the tastiest sweetest paint right under my sweet asbestos ceiling and unboweevable as it is I'm still alive at 60 and in fair to good shape so says my mom.
Lead is one of those forgotten minerals and should be made into a daily supplement. I mean I drink my morning mercury from my lead beer stein. keeps me healthy and (in)sane and the twitches and convulsions are almost completely gone

Seriously I've only used Kester for years and picked it up at a surplus store , 1 lb. for like $18.00 out the door. Had 4 rolls at one time but now its all gone which brings me to this thread .... as I was going to share that I got some solder off Amawrong (Amazon) 1lb. solder for $25.00 that I'm really really happy with. Would a thought it'd be crap but so many good reviews I had to try it .

WYUNWAY Sn63pb37 Its a bit thicker than I like but not too too much. Seems like a lower melting point flows really really good AND i use those harbor freight $5.00 soldering Irons I get 2 or 3 at a time been using this one coming up on 4 years now (and had one only lasted like a month at $5 I don't worry.) Cause I've had some "good" ones die after a month or two also but at $40 bucks a pop nah
 
Seems as good thread as any to ask in…

A decade back I ran out of solder and didn’t have time to cycle to the electronics supply shop - so went to this repair shop owned by an old man and he sold me lead solder - immediately my scolding improved!

Almost 20 years on I’m getting to the end of the spool - is there any lead free stuff at all that’s worth trying in terms of being easy to use?
 
I've been using Kester K100LD 3.3% 275 no-clean (no idea if that helps you find it, or if you need other info) lead-free and it's been fine, desoldering too (although I still hate it and would like to avoid if possible). I don't have much to compare it to though, I assume leaded is still going to be easier to work with just because of the nature of how they work with temperature etc.
 
Silver Blues said:
Lead does not vapourize at 732F, the boiling point of metallic lead is 3180F (1750C) - none of the components of any solder are volatile at their working temperatures. Thus, thankfully we are not worried about lead vapour when soldering, you're right that it's just the touching and the flux fumes.

Also you guys should try 63/37 solders, they handle much better than the 60/40s 😛
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I thought that as well. Thought he may have been confused with 732C.

That said, I do handle precautions like washing hands and washing table after using (most of the time). Been decades since I held it in my teeth as a 3rd hand (been like 40yrs ago…and yes I’ve been tested, and lead is about the only thing that ISN’T wrong with me! lol)
I DO wear gloves, however whenever I use paste, since it’s like anti-seize in how it gets everywhere, and I know I’d end up eating it.
 
I harp on this point all the time: if you want good, consistent solder joints: get a eutectic solder.

That is: a solder that melts and solidifies as a whole. Lots of solders don't do this. Shoot, even 60/40 isn't eutectic.

K100LD is eutectic, I can't say I've tried anything better in non-leaded.

63/37 leaded is eutectic as well. It's all ill use if I'm building something for the first time.

Most non-leaded solders are not eutectic. This makes it a lot harder to avoid cold solder joints...especially because non-leaded solders tend to melt at higher temperatures.

Non-leaded works just fine...but. If you're soldering on a board with a large ground plane, you might have trouble. Same with desoldering. It just isn't as nice to work with.

But I'm pretty sure the brain toxic lead thingie isn't making think not good. Pretty sure.
 
I pamper myself and use MG chemicals 63/37 for my own stuff and when servicing equipment, but I’ve used various lead-free solders just fine. I can’t help but think it’s a skill issue for many… but it’s ok to have preferences regardless.

All good solder (lead or not) has a data sheet with specifications, use the correct tip temperature if you can control it.

Bad solder is bad solder, flux composition greatly affects the alloy’s wetting. This is especially true for lead-free, the cheapest eBay/Aliexpress SAC305 has shit flux, what do you expect? The same alloy from a reputable brand works much better. The difference between crappy and quality leaded solder is also clear as day.

Bad soldering is bad soldering… I have seen soldering with 60/40 so bad I would have guessed it was lead free.
 
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