Spatialist reverb issue

[jrh312]

I put together the Spatialist (FV1 soldered on by PedalPCB) but am having issues. More doesn't work than does work.

1. Volume pot is functioning backwards....full left is max volume.

2. Mix pot acts as volume also, so I m assuming "max volume" on the mix pot is actually a full dry signal and "no volume" is full wet.

3. Top 3 pots do nothing at all.

4. Rotary switch causes no change, but I can hear a dull thud when I switch it. Causes no change to the sound and all sound just like it's bypassed.

I also included a screenshot of the oscillating crystal I'm using because I had some on hand. It's the same frequency as the one in the BOM but I got it from Tayda so it might not be an exact match. Wondering if that might be the issue because it seems like the FV1 is not functioning as it should.

 

[jrh312]

The lower left part is the power section.

Yeah I figured that's what was there. So like the diode there is giving me nothing. I would assume this section needs to be functioning for all the digital stuff to work right.

Stupid question, but should I be getting an audio signal if I probe the actual power wire going into the board? I'm not, but I'm not sure if that's expected

 

[steviejr92]

No you shouldn't get any signal or hear anything again that's the power section.

You should be probing everything in the audio signal path.

 

[jrh312]

Or maybe I'm misunderstanding what I would be expecting..... There wouldn't be audio in the power section right?

 

[jrh312]

No you shouldn't get any signal or hear anything again that's the power section.

You should be probing everything in the audio signal path.

Ok that makes sense. Once I get into the FV1, how do I know where to go? Like I said it's all silent except 1&2

 

[steviejr92]

Ok that makes sense. Once I get into the FV1, how do I know where to go? Like I said it's all silent except 1&2

Probe Pin 28 and what do you get?

 

[steviejr92]

Check the voltages on the FV1 please. (all pins)

 

[jrh312]

Probe Pin 28 and what do you

For reference:


From audio probing

U1:
1 yes
2 no
5 yes
7 yes
8 yes
10 no
13 no
14 no

FV1:
1 yes
2 yes
28 no

R4 yes
R19 no
R20 one side only
R21 no


checking voltages now

 

[steviejr92]

For reference:


From audio probing

U1:
1 yes
2 no
5 yes
7 yes
8 yes
10 no
13 no
14 no

FV1:
1 yes
2 yes
28 no

R4 yes
R19 no
R20 one side only
R21 no


checking voltages now

You should be getting audio on pin28.

 

[jrh312]

You should be getting audio on pin28.

My understanding is I should be getting audio on all of those yeah. None on pin 28 would shut down signal on most, if not all of the other ones that are silent there.

For voltages are you looking for all pins or just certain ones?

 

[steviejr92]

My understanding is I should be getting audio on all of those yeah. None on pin 28 would shut down signal on most, if not all of the other ones that are silent there.

For voltages are you looking for all pins or just certain ones?

List all pins for the FV1.


Not every pin is going to give a strong audio signal as some are connected to VREF rather than being apart of the audio path.
With that said Pin 14 on U1 should be getting audio for sure.


Have you gotten the footboard situated?

 

[jrh312]

List all pins for the FV1.


Not every pin is going to give a strong audio signal as some are connected to VREF rather than being apart of the audio path.
With that said Pin 14 on U1 should be getting audio for sure.


Have you gotten the footboard situated?

Based on the earlier discussion I thought it was fine as long as it was wired as the guy I spoke to about it directed me to. I'll get the voltages here and I'm just going to swap in a new board and switch instead of screwing with desoldering it

 

[steviejr92]

R19, R20, and R28 sound like they might be the problem.

They should be passing signal.

 

[steviejr92]

Based on the earlier discussion I thought it was fine as long as it was wired as the guy I spoke to about it directed me to. I'll get the voltages here and I'm just going to swap in a new board and switch instead of screwing with desoldering it

Before you do that reflow the resistors mentioned above

 

[jrh312]

FYI

 

[steviejr92]

FYI

Looks good except for pin 28 and i think the resistors above might be your problem. They seem to be connected to issues down the line in the schem.

 

[jrh312]

Looks good except for pin 28 and i think the resistors above might be your problem. They seem to be connected to issues down the line in the schem.

No deal on the resistors. I reflowed all 3 and get the same lack of audio. Going to try the board...

 

[steviejr92]

No deal on the resistors. I reflowed all 3 and get the same lack of audio. Going to try the board...

Go for it. Im going to continue looking at the schem.

In the meantime @Robert we need some help on this one. lol

 

[PJS]

pin 13 should not be sitting at 0v. It is tied to 3.3v through R5 and that pin being high is what makes it use the external EEPROM, with it low it uses the internal programs. If it actually connected to ground rather than not connected to anything, then you should still be hearing an output, but it will be the internal programs. Not sure what would happen if it is just not connected at all. I would check for continuity from pin 13 to R5, and from the other end of R5 to the 3.3V line because something is not right there.

The other trick for an FV-1 that is not passing sound is to actually connect R5 to ground instead of 3.3V deliberately - then if you get sound you know it is the EEPROM connection in some way.

 

[jrh312]

Go for it. Im going to continue looking at the schem.

In the meantime @Robert we need some help on this one. lol

So I soldered on (the correct orientation) a new switch and breakout board. Absolutely no difference......

 

[jrh312]

pin 13 should not be sitting at 0v. It is tied to 3.3v through R5 and that pin being high is what makes it use the external EEPROM, with it low it uses the internal programs. If it actually connected to ground rather than not connected to anything, then you should still be hearing an output, but it will be the internal programs. Not sure what would happen if it is just not connected at all. I would check for continuity from pin 13 to R5, and from the other end of R5 to the 3.3V line because something is not right there.

The other trick for an FV-1 that is not passing sound is to actually connect R5 to ground instead of 3.3V deliberately - then if you get sound you know it is the EEPROM connection in some way.

Continuity in both places