Chuck D. Bones
Circuit Wizard
It's still a logical order if you think about it. Bass controls on one side and treble controls on the other.
This Week on the Breadboard: The Celestial Screamer
- Thread starter Chuck D. Bones
- Start date
Brett
Well-known member
I wasn't implying that your arrangement wasn't logical, only that I found the design somewhat challenging initially trying to balance circuit proximity and the logical order of controls. I'm looking into your suggested layout now
!
Chuck D. Bones
Circuit Wizard
I'm just offering suggestions. It's your board, the decisions are yours, I'm sure it will come out fine.
Brett
Well-known member
I missed this, yeah, that would have made things a bit easier. Is there any benefit to making the boost switchable? If so, I could attempt this layout in a similar fashion to how I did the YSDT but in a 1590BB.
I'm always happy to listen to and try to implement your suggestions! They often make a lot of sense.
jimilee
Well-known member
That should work. Removing all those pesky components makes it look a lot cleaner and easier to route.
KR Sound
Well-known member
Chuck D. Bones
Circuit Wizard
HI-CUT connects to the VOLUME pot, so why put them so far apart? Similarly, LO-CUT connects to U1. where it is written that TREBLE has to go on the left?
KR Sound
Well-known member
Feral Feline
Well-known member
16mm pots in Landscape 1590BB, "but nobody is that weird" you say...
*ahem*
Add in a simple boost and make it a double-stomper, says I!
*ahem*
Add in a simple boost and make it a double-stomper, says I!
Chuck D. Bones
Circuit Wizard
It already has a boost. I was resisting the urge to put a switch on it, but it is doable.
szukalski
Well-known member
I meant landscape 125B!
Fingolfen
Well-known member
I was thinking about going that route... or using 9mm pots, but I was leaning to the 1590BB2 (I prefer it because it is a deeper enclosure).
Chuck D. Bones
Circuit Wizard
NICE! But why are all of the film caps round?
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Chuck D. Bones
Circuit Wizard
Here's a thought: Add 2 more diodes and wire them in series with the existing clipping diodes. It provides options. I'm experimenting with that right now on the breadboard.
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Chuck D. Bones
Circuit Wizard
The final version (really!). I tweaked a few component values (R4 - R6, VR1, C3, R20, R21), added two diodes and corrected a couple of ref des. Callin' this one done. I mean it this time,
I had been asked about a BOOST switch. I tried it and decided I didn't need it. For those who wish to experiment for themselves, I did it like this:
I had been asked about a BOOST switch. I tried it and decided I didn't need it. For those who wish to experiment for themselves, I did it like this:
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Brett
Well-known member
On the notes, should it be D1 & D2 or D1 & D3? I’ll email you to follow up on the layout I sent over previously.
Chuck D. Bones
Circuit Wizard
D1 & D3. Thanks for pointing that out. The schematic has been corrected.
"standard" TS settings are BOOST at zero, DRIVE below noon, LO-CUT at 9:00, HI-CUT at 1:00, BASS at noon, TREBLE to taste.
"standard" TS settings are BOOST at zero, DRIVE below noon, LO-CUT at 9:00, HI-CUT at 1:00, BASS at noon, TREBLE to taste.
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