TL072CP Op Amp Differences

J

jdduffield

Member
Does anyone know the differences between these two op amps?

Which is the best sound and quality for the Kliche Mini or are they pretty much the same?

(I realize I could just try both but wondering if anyone else has already done so and what the thoughts are on it.)
 

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jdduffield said:
One is from Tayda.
www.taydaelectronics.com

TL072 LOW NOISE J-FET DUAL OP-AMP IC

VARIOUS - Get It Fast - Same Day Shipping
www.taydaelectronics.com www.taydaelectronics.com
View attachment 69451



The other from Amazon.

View attachment 69452
Click to expand...


$8.50 for a 20 pack was a better price, so I went with those. Strange thing is they are listed as Bridgold and showed up as Texas Instruments. I’m new to this stuff so that was confusing. I was wondering if I should have stretched for the more expensive parts.
 
darwin999 said:
Check out https://forum.pedalpcb.com/threads/tl072-vs-tl072.12830/, if I read that discussion correctly, the one on the right is not genuine. Genuine TI has the circular mark like the one on the left, and not the semi-circular edge indent like the one on the right.
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☝️👆☝️👆 This. If they're fakes, they're likely LM358s, or other functional, but cheap dual op-amp and won't have the same low-noise qualities.

I'm late, but FWIW the TL072s I bought for a friend from Tayda appeared to be genuine. When the time came, and because they were somehow cheaper, I got my last batch from Mouser. And it's safer overall to buy from the Big Box, so to speak.
 
jdduffield said:
Does anyone know the differences between these two op amps?

Which is the best sound and quality for the Kliche Mini or are they pretty much the same?

(I realize I could just try both but wondering if anyone else has already done so and what the thoughts are on it.)
Click to expand...
The ones on the right are either bad or fakes. I've been collecting a list of known bad TL072CP date codes . . . .

Known Bad TL072CP Date Codes:
18MDSHY
14AP8NM
07A5L8QM
22ALE3M

Every one of those I've ever tried, that have those date codes, inject noise into the signal tails. The first two in that list came from Tayda.
 
chris.knudson said:
You can still get legit 1N34As from Stopmp Box Parts, and I think Small Bear might still have some.
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Small Bear was out last time I checked, but sure, if you want to shell out for real ones, SBP's probably the only place I'd trust to buy them from.

I highly recommend buying their silver/yellow/black D2J's instead, though. Fantastic diodes. Fairly consistent Vf, and I got a few low-ish leakage ones for a G2 build.
 
benny_profane said:
Note that there is no one 1N34A. It was produced by a number of different companies since the 1940s. The specs are rather loose when compared to modern production Si signal/junction diodes.
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Yep. Si 1n34As are legit. For all non-pedal intents and purposes, they electrically function "good enough to spec".
Unless they're from some random new old stock from a retired 70 year old repair guy, it's a crap shoot.
Check the modern datasheets. They're either Si or "GE work-aike" or whatever.
 
jwin615 said:
Yep. Si 1n34As are legit. For all non-pedal intents and purposes, they electrically function "good enough to spec".
Unless they're from some random new old stock from a retired 70 year old repair guy, it's a crap shoot.
Check the modern datasheets. They're either Si or "GE work-aike" or whatever.
Click to expand...
I’m not sure what you mean. Where are you seeing a modern production silicon 1N34A? That JEDEC designation should only be for the germanium device.
 
benny_profane said:
I’m not sure what you mean. Where are you seeing a modern production silicon 1N34A? That JEDEC designation should only be for the germanium device.
Click to expand...
A while back I (foolishly) considered some ebay "1N34A" and found a YT video where an old radio guy kinda went over it. They aren't made with germanium, but simply workalikes/workalites that have deceptive listing titles.

IIRC someone else here (or mbp forum?) basically said regarding any nondescript orange glass diode: they're schottkys. In the case of some of the workalikes, they have similar specs, I'm guess. Heck, that's what we do with some builds, right? Use a 1N60P or BAT41 for hard clippers. IDK, maybe I'm off. I'm ill and very sleep deprived.

An actually foolish eScam purchase a few years ago was for some "1N270" diodes, from a domestic seller, didn't seem like a MiC smurf account, although they're no longer active, percent due to things like this. Schottkys. Learned/relearned a lot in the last three years…

Edit:
This actually had a rather net positive effect, in that I essentially did a blind test on myself: I compared and extensively tested different specimens (and multiple sets ) of diode for a build and consistently picked those "1N270" schottkys as my favorite one in that circuit, thinking they were germanium ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
 
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