What’s on *YOUR* workbench?

Regarding the Fire Red Fuzz, I'm gonna give it another whirl first (plus I need to fix the Amber Overdrive I already built), but I was also thinking of modding it further if I wasn't enamored with it. Doing some checking, I think I can switch the tone stack to Ultrastoner specs quite easily, need to desolder the two resistors and two caps from the tone stack (technically just 3, I could up the 10nF to 15nF by adding another cap on the other side in parallel, I guess).

Wiring the Shape pot shouldn't be an issue either, not sure if I have an extra C500k pot around though. There's handily even a space to add the Doom switch already, since the Amber Overdrive uses a similar bypass cap (330p) by default (the Doom switch bypasses the clipping with a 1nF to 2.2nF cap). Well, it ends up on the other side of the clipping cap than in the original, but I don't think it makes a big difference here.

I'll take a look at the Muff tonestack calculator thing first though, to understand what I'm doing better.
 
Cracked spring unit open and it’s infected with some PNP germs. AC180 and SFT353.
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Japan stamped on metal is only identification. How does this even work? Two leads go in and two out, then what? :D
Gonna trace a schematic about drive and recover circuits, but I already did eyballing and compared the circuit to other transistor drive circuits from the same era. The reverb didn’t work on the e-organ so I’m really starting to think there’s assembly/manufacturing error within reverb. There’s unsoldered pads on reverb PCB and no DC connections, only signal in/out are connected.

It sucks there’s no schematic available for free from the organ. So next step is to trace the schematic for figuring out where to connect power in etc. Read that Ge-transistor reverb circuits can give some nice filth used as fuzz/distortion. :p

Edit. Okay, started tracing and on input wire there’s power in replacing input gnd.
 
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After attempting to route levels.. the router gauge moved 0.5mm... however thankfully I till have some excess depth built in.. back to ye-olde depth marking with a drill hole..

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The gauge on the drill was tested, drill tested, the rechecked before I started.. no movement so all good to go!

I'll drill the underside after this, so that way it will have a stable base.. then comes the carving, scraping and sanding before I start tuning the top.. all fun..
 
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Well: the jazzmaster body I bought was...ah...a little different on the lower bout than expected. Basically: the pickguards I bought would hang off the edge. No good

So...well...gotta improvise. My CNC can only handle an area of about 300mmx300mm. Jazzmaster guards are larger than I could accomidate.

But...hell, why not borrow from the Jaguar? The Jaguar control plates are a bit different, but I can design my own. Fairly easily.

So, ta da. Cream/black/cream pickguard with a brass upper bout...lower bout likely to be carved up tomorrow. Sand it with some 120 grit in one direction, apply some blackener, sand with some 22, add lacquer.

She's coming out to be a looker.
 
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