What’s on *YOUR* workbench?

[jwin615]

I've had enclosures crack from getting grabbed by the bit wrong, but never blown completely out like that .

Not exactly the same, but DeadEndFX has the Brass Monkey (Silver Rose clone) board- Muff and Superfuzz in parallel

That was me knowing better and doing it anyways.
I have a benchtop press and can barely fit the enclosure upright, which isn't a perfect 90.
I went to fast and thankfully only bruised a thumb.

 

[jwin615]

Do you have a step bit? That thing has saved me so much time and heartache. Highly suggested if you are hand drilling.

I have a press but top mount jacks stretch it to the limits. That's actually with a stepped but, of which I have several.
But, since pedals aren't perfect cubes, it was slightly slanted and I pushed too hard and it snagged the bit.
That's actually where step bits are inferior. They can grab in a way other bits don't.
I need to find a shorter bit for jacks.
I don't like step bits in non- square uses, especially in aluminum. Not safe.
In flush uses, they're great. I've had one grab me one a 1 inch hole before in aluminum and jam my wrist with a hand drill. They pretty much need to be flush, by design.

 

[Vicious C]

I have a press but top mount jacks stretch it to the limits. That's actually with a stepped but, of which I have several.
But, since pedals aren't perfect cubes, it was slightly slanted and I pushed too hard and it snagged the bit.
That's actually where step bits are inferior. They can grab in a way other bits don't.
I need to find a shorter bit for jacks.
I don't like step bits in non- square uses, especially in aluminum. Not safe.
In flush uses, they're great. I've had one grab me one a 1 inch hole before in aluminum and jam my wrist with a hand drill. They pretty much need to be flush, by design.

I have a drill press and always use step bits, I always drill a pilot hole first with a regular drill bit, then when I drill the holes for top mounted jacks, I actually just grab the enclosure with both hands on the sides and push it up into the step bit (I know not the safest) but I’ve never had an issue in the last 5 years and countless pedals built.

 

[jessenator]

have a press but top mount jacks stretch it to the limits.

Don't know how you secure it in your press, but I've had great experiences getting a rag or even leather could work, and gripping it in my vise. I'm not a machinist or anything, but I feel like adding that pressure on the edge helps keep the softer aluminum together. Might be placebo, IDK.

The box in which a friend put a zero point super deluxe blew out on the side. The metal looked weird. I'm also not a metallurgist, but it seemed to look brittle, like crusty, grainy almost. When I've drilled into most enclosures there's a solid look to the drilled portions. Could just be a bad casting?

Sucks either way. Sorry to see that

I'm just using cheapo harbor freight step bits. I might grab some better ones eventually.

 

[Feral Feline]

Mm hm, I hear you.

 

[Fama]

Finally got around to taking a look at the broken Bad Monkey. What is it with this guy and just cutting some wires?


The cut battery wires were not important here, I suspect the tactile switch has gone bad. It doesn't seem to react to the footswitch, but I don't think it's necessarily a height issue since I also need to hit it multiple times with the plastic end of a screwdriver to get it to turn on and off. But it works fine if I turn it off. I think I'll go with just replacing the switch first, unless someone has run into relays that sorta work part of the time consistently?

Something like this https://www.taydaelectronics.com/el...ct-switch-6-6mm-5mm-through-hole-spst-no.html seems fine, but I'll take some more measurements later on.

I've also got a broken Nux Horseman waiting in the post locker for pickup, which was sold at only shipping costs, I hope that will be an easy fix too.

 

[Erik S]

FS1:boomboombomm
FS2:zoom zoom

Boom Boom AND Zoom Zoom you say?

 

[jwin615]

Finally got around to taking a look at the broken Bad Monkey. What is it with this guy and just cutting some wires?

View attachment 62645View attachment 62644View attachment 62646
The cut battery wires were not important here, I suspect the tactile switch has gone bad. It doesn't seem to react to the footswitch, but I don't think it's necessarily a height issue since I also need to hit it multiple times with the plastic end of a screwdriver to get it to turn on and off. But it works fine if I turn it off. I think I'll go with just replacing the switch first, unless someone has run into relays that sorta work part of the time consistently?

Something like this https://www.taydaelectronics.com/el...ct-switch-6-6mm-5mm-through-hole-spst-no.html seems fine, but I'll take some more measurements later on.

I've also got a broken Nux Horseman waiting in the post locker for pickup, which was sold at only shipping costs, I hope that will be an easy fix too.

Is there a relay on there? May be transistor switching?
Can always ohm out the switch and see how the contact is but I would bet on the switch. Those were the Achilles heal of that era digitech. That and the dumb plastic boots they put over them.

 

[jwin615]

Boom Boom AND Zoom Zoom you say?

Eggs-actly!

 

[jwin615]

Don't know how you secure it in your press, but I've had great experiences getting a rag or even leather could work, and gripping it in my vise. I'm not a machinist or anything, but I feel like adding that pressure on the edge helps keep the softer aluminum together. Might be placebo, IDK.

The box in which a friend put a zero point super deluxe blew out on the side. The metal looked weird. I'm also not a metallurgist, but it seemed to look brittle, like crusty, grainy almost. When I've drilled into most enclosures there's a solid look to the drilled portions. Could just be a bad casting?

Sucks either way. Sorry to see that

I'm just using cheapo harbor freight step bits. I might grab some better ones eventually.

It's the first blowout I've had on the press. I do have a press vice but need to figure out mounting hardware that's quick/easy to accurately adjust.
I'm kicking myself for not buying one of the many full size floor stand drill presses I e come across at estate sales.
Hoping to find a stubby drill bit for the top holes so I can just tool swap without a height adjustment (and be able to fit the vice on there for top jacks).

 

[Fama]

Is there a relay on there? May be transistor switching?
Can always ohm out the switch and see how the contact is but I would bet on the switch. Those were the Achilles heal of that era digitech. That and the dumb plastic boots they put over them.

I actually didn't look that closely, but I think the 14-pin chip might be it? Not sure what else that one would be, since I think it has two JRC4580 OP amps, and the transistors and J201 (or multiple?) for the actual audio path itself. I'll have to re-open it and read the code, but it will be a while before I put in my Tayda order anyway - plus it seems like I can use the pedal in the meanwhile if I toggle it with the screwdriver.

 

[Fizz]

This cap won't fit in the holes.. how can I measure it LOL

 

[ThePanda]

Choice Panda Future Impact, too!

 

[synthesiserror]

My Mouser SMD order came in, so I heated up my crustiest Amazon beveled tip and went for it. Not pretty, but I think it will work.



I haven't been this excited to make weird noises for 15 minutes since I built my Dark Rift.

 

[jwin615]

My Mouser SMD order came in, so I heated up my crustiest Amazon beveled tip and went for it. Not pretty, but I think it will work.

View attachment 62720

I haven't been this excited to make weird noises for 15 minutes since I built my Dark Rift.

Nice job! It may be angle/photo but are legs lifted lower right IC on the right side? And not sure they're seated on the left side of the same IC. May want to double check that guy

 

[synthesiserror]

Nice job! It may be angle/photo but are legs lifted lower right IC on the right side? And not sure they're seated on the left side of the same IC. May want to double check that guy

Thanks, not lifted, just a little too much solder.

 

[Fama]

Another broken pedal - this was free (or I paid for postage of course), but of course a tiny SMD pedal like this is a crapshoot (at least with my skills) whether you can get it fixed or not.

But from quick googling it looks like it could be a common issue

and I just need to find a SMD 4053 to replace the presumably faulty one. I'll see if I can maybe replicate some of his testing in the video, although I don't have a cable to connect the two PCB's while they are not together, and I don't have a frequency analyzer (or an oscilloscope). Maybe I'll just try changing the part and see what happens.

Edit: I suppose this one for example would be a fit https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/toshiba-semiconductor-and-storage/74HC4053D/7394032, if I order other stuff from Digikey at the same time I'll give those a try.

 

[PapaBear]

View attachment 62748View attachment 62749
Another broken pedal - this was free (or I paid for postage of course), but of course a tiny SMD pedal like this is a crapshoot (at least with my skills) whether you can get it fixed or not.

But from quick googling it looks like it could be a common issue

and I just need to find a SMD 5053 to replace the presumably faulty one. I'll see if I can maybe replicate some of his testing in the video, although I don't have a cable to connect the two PCB's while they are not together, and I don't have a frequency analyzer (or an oscilloscope). Maybe I'll just try changing the part and see what happens.

Edit: I suppose this one for example would be a fit https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/toshiba-semiconductor-and-storage/74HC4053D/7394032, if I order other stuff from Digikey at the same time I'll give those a try.

I think it's a SMD 4053 you want.

 

[Fama]

I think it's a SMD 4053 you want.

Thanks, I wrote 5053 but the link was to a 4053 as it should. But good to point it out anyway, would be annoying if I ended up with the wrong part (I might pick up a couple of different ones since they're ~60c a piece but the shipping is horrible - which is ok in this case if I get the solder and stuff too).

 

[JTEX]

Finally got around to taking a look at the broken Bad Monkey. What is it with this guy and just cutting some wires?

View attachment 62645View attachment 62644View attachment 62646
The cut battery wires were not important here, I suspect the tactile switch has gone bad. It doesn't seem to react to the footswitch, but I don't think it's necessarily a height issue since I also need to hit it multiple times with the plastic end of a screwdriver to get it to turn on and off. But it works fine if I turn it off. I think I'll go with just replacing the switch first, unless someone has run into relays that sorta work part of the time consistently?

Something like this https://www.taydaelectronics.com/el...ct-switch-6-6mm-5mm-through-hole-spst-no.html seems fine, but I'll take some more measurements later on.

I've also got a broken Nux Horseman waiting in the post locker for pickup, which was sold at only shipping costs, I hope that will be an easy fix too.

I'll tell ya what momentary switch never breaks: a reed switch combined with a little magnet. No physical contact.