What’s on *YOUR* workbench?

JTEX said:
I gave up trying to feed my pedalized Bass Rockman from a standard 9V supply and generate the -6V rail internally. Nothing I tried was quiet enough, without any little whines or interference due to unavoidable close proximity to the sensitive main boards. Back to what the thing actually likes: a linear, regulated +/-6VDC supply. But which 3-pin DC connector to use? There was no way I was going for a 3.5mm stereo jack for power, like the original box. I think that's an aberration. I ended up using a TinyXLR, which I highly recommend for those times when you need dual rail power into the box. It's pretty much bombproof, very reliable contacts, won't accidentally unplug itself, and won't be mistaken for any other DC or AC power supply (or headphone jack!).

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I seem to recall using those to repair Shure wireless units. PITA to solder but makes for a clean install and like you said, they're bomb proof. Wireless units take a bit more of a beating (I've repaired a bunch for a saxophone player specifically).
 
Gordo said:
THose muff's look just sick. And cool play on words. Here in Chicago I used to drive by the Morton salt shed on the way to and from work. It's now a concert venue. And a very cool one at that.
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Between this reminding me I used to live not far from the old Domino sugar factory in Brooklyn, and always loving how shitty (in a good way) their packaging was - every box I ever saw in stores looked like NOS from the 60s - now I need to find a circuit to rip off their design for the enclosure

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One last verification before fabrication.

Turns out what I thought was a circuit breaking flaw turned out to be a knuckleheaded mistake from the last time I boarded something else: put a 470R in the 470k drawer.

Good thing I don't put breadboard-used components into actual builds 🥵
Always a fear when I'm taking parts in and out.

I was getting dry signal bleed through and thought I had just messed up and ignored it out of excitement of getting the circuit working at all.

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Also, the volume on this thing needs to be linear, not log.
 
finebyfine said:
Between this reminding me I used to live not far from the old Domino sugar factory in Brooklyn, and always loving how shitty (in a good way) their packaging was - every box I ever saw in stores looked like NOS from the 60s - now I need to find a circuit to rip off their design for the enclosure

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The design is perfect. Just like Bruce's Yams. Why change it when you got it right a half century ago?

EDIT:

PREMIUM
PURE CANE
GRANULATED

Makes less and less sense as you try to figure out how they wanted the reader to understand that.
 
A hydra where I used tantalum caps for the 1uF ones without realizing they are polarized. So I guess I now have to desolder them all. Ffs.

In my defense, I did know that tantalum caps are usually polarized but I've read that there are bipolar ones too, and since the listing didn't say anything I thought they would be bipolar. Should have checked the datasheet.
 
Thanks to @steviejr92 for his Chicken Rat Salad.. I liked it so much that it took the place of my resident Rat layout. Behold, the Rattenscha(r)f!

Rattenscharf is slang for someone good looking or sexy. Not sure if this is the origin of the Zappa album Hot Rats..

Rattenschaf is a Rat Sheep. I think the association should be clear.
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szukalski said:
Thanks to @steviejr92 for his Chicken Rat Salad.. I liked it so much that it took the place of my resident Rat layout. Behold, the Rattenscha(r)f!

Rattenscharf is slang for someone good looking or sexy. Not sure if this is the origin of the Zappa album Hot Rats..

Rattenschaf is a Rat Sheep. I think the association should be clear.
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That’s a beautiful layout too!!!

Glad you like it man! I need to get back to experimenting with circuits!
 
Dan said:
Hey Jessenator, interesting 3d printer rig.
Do you know anything about laser etching?

current project Electrophase..tomorrow testing de-bugging if needed. Fingers crossed.
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Regarding laser: I know …a little haha. I bought a decent hobby level engraving laser with the intent of doing a lot of it. Haven't touched it much, because 99% of those have wood as the primary use case (engraving and cutting). You do wood, open the garage door, and it leaves a campfire smell. You go and etch off paint or powder coating, and without a proper hood extraction (like upwards of 700 cfm) and you're getting toxic VOCs and it lingers. Also there's the power of the laser to consider: marking paint (leaves a mark vs etching it away and the rest washes off) won't work with most lower end diode lasers, blah blah. Basically I know what not to do for what we're doing here. IDK if he's on here, but pickdropper over on mbp for sure knows quite a lot; does it for his business and his stuff is gorgeous.

I did a few and only that I've cropped in the pic and (kinda) my Dragon Thlayur came out halfway decent. Needed to experiment with spacing and etching time/power/speed more.
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The rest of that thing …I butchered it 🤮 needs a redemption arc (or maybe I do?)

Add far as 3D printing goes. I've got a halfway decent Ender 3 pro with a glass bed. At some point I may upgrade to a Prusa, but meh. I'm not doing anything special :) I take hammond IEGS/STEP files to do fitment enclosures foe builds, and I use a very non-CAD piece of software, because I'm gonna squeeze eevry drop from that $3k Maya license from 2009, dagummit! It's accurate in mm, but I have to do weird things like upscale holes—and only the holes—by 5% to fit things. I used to do proto rigs, too, but there are better designs on here than what I did. The tools are probably the best "value" I can get out if it, like lead benders/formers, and sockets.

(Old pic)
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Anyhow, long winded ramble compete 😅 hopefully I answered your question properly (sleep; my kingdom for some sleep)
 
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