What’s on *YOUR* workbench?
- Thread starter Bricksnbeatles
- Start date
CheapSuitG
The TubeSchemer
KR Sound
Well-known member
Maybe I should beat him to the punch!
mkstewartesq
Well-known member
For my second breadboarding effort, I’m trying the Glory Hole (JHS Morning Glory) because it forces me to start working with things like opamps, voltage dividers, and VREF. I will admit that the diode clipping section is confusing the shit out of me (took a while to mentally figure out that circular arrangement of four diode’s), but I think I figured it out and I’m going to test it once I finish this section (I’m trying to test after each block – even if the sound is awful, if I’m getting sound I at least know that it worked up through the block I tested).
(I mean, I guess I’m using the term “block“ somewhat properly – I tested right after the drive control when I had hooked up half the dual opamp, and now I’ll test again after laying out clipping section, the second half of the amp and the tone control).
M
(I mean, I guess I’m using the term “block“ somewhat properly – I tested right after the drive control when I had hooked up half the dual opamp, and now I’ll test again after laying out clipping section, the second half of the amp and the tone control).
M
mkstewartesq
Well-known member
Well, update – it’s still working just past the tone control. For the test, I just hooked the output straight to lug two of the tone control so, like expectantly watching a cake baking in the oven, I’m hoping all the stuff that’s coming after lug two of the tone control in the schematic makes a huge difference in the sound because, while everything works so far, the output generally has a sheen of “sharp broken glass attacking a rival gang of sharp broken glass, each fighting with broken glass bottles.”
M
M
pbrommer
Well-known member
So, I figured out what was causing the Tremulus Lune to not function: my stupidity. I wired two pots to the wrong spots in the board. Fired it up, it works great. The knobs really interact except I think the depth cuts off a bit before the potentiometer ends. You can get some really fun sounds out of it.
TL;DR - I’m an idiot, wire your pots correctly, pedal sound good
TL;DR - I’m an idiot, wire your pots correctly, pedal sound good
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Fama
Well-known member
Finally got around to switching out the charge pump on my spring reverb to a ICL7660SCPAZ. And just like that, the harsh whine spike at ~13kHz is gone!
...and instead I have a harsh whine spike at 23kHz, which fair enough, I don't think I know anyone who can hear that high so it's fine.
(in truth I also low pass the guitar tone at 7kHz in the current preset so it wasn't an actual big problem before either, but I wanted to see if this fixed it)
...and instead I have a harsh whine spike at 23kHz, which fair enough, I don't think I know anyone who can hear that high so it's fine.
(in truth I also low pass the guitar tone at 7kHz in the current preset so it wasn't an actual big problem before either, but I wanted to see if this fixed it)
jessenator
Well-known member
You've probably already searched it all, but the TC7660H has a switching frequency of 120khz, of that's what you're going for. The trade-off is the max input voltage is 10V versus the 12V of the SCPAZ.
Guilherme Collateral
Well-known member
JasonWickersham
Well-known member
Mail call, and a few other pics. Realized I F’d the switch wiring on the wah.. pulling the switch and harness, replacing with another switch and wiring properly.
Green enclosure is a GuitarPCB Tube Screaming preamp.
Pic with boards includes the Delegate Compressor and a BassBalls.
Green enclosure is a GuitarPCB Tube Screaming preamp.
Pic with boards includes the Delegate Compressor and a BassBalls.
Attachments
andare
Well-known member
Lectric FX Bloodstone. Another board I populated years ago before I quit pedals.
This one really sounds good though I think the Feedback pot should be rev log.
The vibrato is weak and it ticks but hey, it's there.
Rate at 0 and Feedback all the way up is pretty close to the Zappa Pink Napkins tone.
Another great one is if you activate Manual, there are a bunch of cool cocked wah/lo-fi tones on the 3rd knob. And with rate and Feedback up, it almost sounds like an octave or a ring mod.
I suggest using a 1590BBS as the 470uF cap is too tall. My board is all tilted up and it barely fits vertically.
Also the trimpots allow to set the volume to unity but it gets louder as you turn up the knobs.
This one really sounds good though I think the Feedback pot should be rev log.
The vibrato is weak and it ticks but hey, it's there.
Rate at 0 and Feedback all the way up is pretty close to the Zappa Pink Napkins tone.
Another great one is if you activate Manual, there are a bunch of cool cocked wah/lo-fi tones on the 3rd knob. And with rate and Feedback up, it almost sounds like an octave or a ring mod.
I suggest using a 1590BBS as the 470uF cap is too tall. My board is all tilted up and it barely fits vertically.
Also the trimpots allow to set the volume to unity but it gets louder as you turn up the knobs.
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Erik S
Well-known member
My contribution to pedal bike pcb.
Grabbed this kinda cool 70s schwinn off Craigslist over the weekend. Fillet brazed chromoly frame in pretty good shape except for a hairline crack on the down tube joint. Drilled the ends of the crack and went over it with some silicon bronze tig rod. Hopefully it’s good enough!
Grabbed this kinda cool 70s schwinn off Craigslist over the weekend. Fillet brazed chromoly frame in pretty good shape except for a hairline crack on the down tube joint. Drilled the ends of the crack and went over it with some silicon bronze tig rod. Hopefully it’s good enough!
almondcity
Well-known member
KR Sound
Well-known member
I was given this little non-functioning MarkBass Micro in trade for changing out a burned out resistor in another amp. Figured, easy fix. Transformer works fine, trying to figure out how to trace this damn thing without access to the schematic.
It’s got an octocoupler that I’m just gonna swap out and a TDA7293V audio amplifier that will get replaced too. Other than those, I’ll just have to try to trace the signal. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ There was a fucked up
Solder joint on that 7293, so I’m hoping something happened there.
It’s got an octocoupler that I’m just gonna swap out and a TDA7293V audio amplifier that will get replaced too. Other than those, I’ll just have to try to trace the signal. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ There was a fucked up
Solder joint on that 7293, so I’m hoping something happened there.
KreoPensas
Well-known member
( insert outrageously affected review of the 'basic relay bypass - latching' board ) - wow. Just wow. I know, you already know.
This made the OD-s less odious. I never suspected it would be this useful. I changed the 100nf tone cap to 270nf while I was in there.
For whatever it is worth, this is a fine example of what a "complete" Korg NuTube based chain sounds like : Overdrive, preamp, and the power tube reactor. I have a Triad TY-250 transformer ( 20hz - 20khz ) in between the preamps and the rest of the chain. ( the two used are copperhead and silk drive )
Only consistent effect is a Boss DD-200 wearing a drum echo, and a MXR 10 band eq. I turn on a Madbean Stage Fright for a short while, then a Chaos Machine for another while during which I remembered to turn on the Boss CH-1 I use to simulate a wide stereo image. The rate and depth are fully down, the effect is full wet. You get a wide stereo. There are two power tube reactor units, two powered cabs, two Sennheiser E609 mics. 1 Fake Rickenbacker.
apologies for the seasick video fx. I usually do not play with those and it shows.
This made the OD-s less odious. I never suspected it would be this useful. I changed the 100nf tone cap to 270nf while I was in there.
For whatever it is worth, this is a fine example of what a "complete" Korg NuTube based chain sounds like : Overdrive, preamp, and the power tube reactor. I have a Triad TY-250 transformer ( 20hz - 20khz ) in between the preamps and the rest of the chain. ( the two used are copperhead and silk drive )
Only consistent effect is a Boss DD-200 wearing a drum echo, and a MXR 10 band eq. I turn on a Madbean Stage Fright for a short while, then a Chaos Machine for another while during which I remembered to turn on the Boss CH-1 I use to simulate a wide stereo image. The rate and depth are fully down, the effect is full wet. You get a wide stereo. There are two power tube reactor units, two powered cabs, two Sennheiser E609 mics. 1 Fake Rickenbacker.
apologies for the seasick video fx. I usually do not play with those and it shows.
redclover7!
Member
i love the shiny vintage tint fingerboard
jessenator
Well-known member
I think I'm gonna need some solder mask…
Nostradoomus
Well-known member
jessenator
Well-known member
{me thinking nobody would notice my rusty drilling}
Passinwind
Well-known member
Finally about to start making smoke on my second PPCB build, a Kliche Mini. In typical fashion, I have no interest in trying a stock build first, even though I've never even played through a Klon. Let's just dive right into arbitrary mods and get rid of all those goofy specialized resistor values. And by arbitrary mods, I mean Spice modeling first and foremost, as usual:
And yes, I will be using those $5 germ diodes that I got comped, but may or may not bother with A/B'ing them with other magic beans. It's better to look mahvelous than sound mahvelous, after all!
And yes, I will be using those $5 germ diodes that I got comped, but may or may not bother with A/B'ing them with other magic beans. It's better to look mahvelous than sound mahvelous, after all!