What kind of perf do I want exactly?

[oobs]

I am confused ordering perfboard, what kind do I want for pedals?

 

[Fama]

Looking at the pictures should help to clear it up a little bit.

Something like https://www.taydaelectronics.com/small-stripboard-93x55mm-copper.html with the "strips" works for veroboard layouts like this https://tagboardeffects.blogspot.com/2023/09/thorpy-fx-dane.html, where the strips are in the layout too.

While something like https://www.taydaelectronics.com/double-side-prototyping-board-90x150mm.html is what you want for perfboard layouts like https://effectslayouts.blogspot.com/2025/12/ehxjhs-big-muff-2.html?m=1

Then it's down to size, price, and checking whether the board has some weird stuff around the sides/corners that we often don't need.

I don't think the actual quality matters that much, at least I assume the holes are pretty standard sized, and copper is (pretty much) copper.

Others more experienced might chime in if there's some types to get and avoid. I've used at least https://www.taydaelectronics.com/small-stripboard-93x55mm-copper.html, but I've only done a few things so far on veroboard/stripboard, and none on perfboard.

Edit: Since you're looking specifically for perfboard, do check that it's not actually stripboard you're buying - but in my experience Tayda has real pictures of the products, at least for these boards, so checking them should work.

 

[JohnnyCreepy]

I don't think the actual quality matters that much, at least I assume the holes are pretty standard sized, and copper is (pretty much) copper.

I used to believe in this, but there’s a real difference how copper traces heat and take solder. And it’s not about solder type, lack of flux or technique. :/

So sample vero/perf first if it’s workable before getting a stock.

 

[Erik S]

I had some big perf ambitions, but I haven't followed through really.

When I stocked up on boards I went with the double sided perf because I liked the idea of doing board mounted pots and soldering from the component side. Off board wired pots seems to be the norm in published layouts though.

I did solder up at least one fuzz face on a green double sided perf board from tayda and the quality seemed good from what I could tell.

Like Fama says - I'd find some layouts you want to build and just make sure you're getting the matching board style (vero/stip vs perf)

 

[Fama]

I used to believe in this, but there’s a real difference how copper traces heat and take solder. And it’s not about solder type, lack of flux or technique. :/

So sample vero/perf first if it’s workable before getting a stock.

That's a fair point. The one I linked seems to take solder quite easily, at least.

 

[Coda]

If you want to stick with it (circuits from scratch) get stripboard. “Vero” is a brand name that has become synonymous with stripboard. Veroboard = stripboard. There are tons of layouts all over the place. I recommend starting small (boost, simple fuzz) in order to learn the technique…

A few years ago I challenged myself to build from scratch. I’d find a circuit, find a layout (or design one) and build it all at once. One of the surprises I had was the Zvex Fuzzolo. Simple to build, lots of fun to play…

 

[Ginsly]

When I stocked up on boards I went with the double sided perf because I liked the idea of doing board mounted pots and soldering from the component side. Off board wired pots seems to be the norm in published layouts though.

I had a question related to this recently. Most perf I've seen is double sided, which makes sense.

The vero I've used (mostly Tayda), is one-sided, but when I looked at some from StompBoxParts it appears to be double sided (pic of non-strip side below). It's certainly nicer stripboard than Tayda's (which is actually pretty good aside from being a bit crumbly when cutting), but it occurred to me that having copper through-holes might be problematic. Resistors often stretch for many rows on vero, and since they're placed flat against the board I would be afraid of the legs touching pads (and in turn the rows behind them), causing shorts and whatnot with other components on those rows.

I suppose one could cover the resistor legs, but I'm wondering if that's even necessary...

*This is the side of the board that is usually bare*

 

[oobs]

Thanks everybody!

 

[BuddytheReow]

TUTORIAL Thread 'What's the Deal With Stripboard/Veroboard?'

Feb 1, 2022

A few people have asked me about stripboard so I thought I'd do a simple writeup. Turned out a lot longer to make it "simple", but I covered the bases here.

What is Stripboard?

Stripboard is simply a different type of prototyping platform. If soldering is your main vice, this is the way to go and is considered to be a more permanent way to keep a circuit instead of breadboarding. I say more permanent because you can always desolder and save your components if you really want for a different build. This is what stripboard looks like and there are different size boards...

• BuddytheReow
• Replies: 19
• Forum: The Test Kitchen

• 
• 

 

[mckillacuddy]

I had a question related to this recently...

causing shorts and whatnot with other components on those rows.

I suppose one could cover the resistor legs, but I'm wondering if that's even necessary...

*This is the side of the board that is usually bare*
View attachment 109436

Long spans don't really cause much trouble. There's clearance if you're careful. Kind of like a guitar string, I guess. Cutting traces can be a bitch though. You can't get through the plated through holes by hand with a twist drill like you can with other boards. You need a sharp and strong tool to cut between them. I like to use a pick or bend hook

 

[Ginsly]

Long spans don't really cause much trouble. There's clearance if you're careful. Kind of like a guitar string, I guess. Cutting traces can be a bitch though. You can't get through the plated through holes by hand with a twist drill like you can with other boards. You need a sharp and strong tool to cut between them. I like to use a pick or bend hook

Oh, you've used those Cusack stripboards from SBP? They're certainly more expensive than Tayda's, but I figure next time I order from SBP I'll at least try em. They look nice, and if they can be cut down more cleanly that'd be great.

I agree, most long-span resistors wouldn't necessarily be mashed onto the board but it seems like a bit of a risk with that perf-like topside. Good to know they didn't cause trouble for you.

The dealbreaker here is the difficulty in cutting traces. On one hand it means these are pretty heavy-duty, on the other hand this sounds like a colossal pain in the ass! I can see where the copper through-hole would be more difficult to twist by hand.

Tayda's seem to be the best all-around choice, and they've mostly worked well for me. Still, I'm running low and won't be ordering from Tayda for a bit - anybody have other sources? The Busboard ones are excellent, but $$$. There's a bunch of cheapos on Amazon, but the reviews are all over the place, as usual. I considered trying one of those, but it seems like they're prone to off-center holes - no thanks!