I'm rather inexperienced with cast iron other than an initial cure. Do you sand them to get a smoother finish? I always thought Lodge was proud of their river rock finish, heh.
I'm rather inexperienced with cast iron other than an initial cure. Do you sand them to get a smoother finish? I always thought Lodge was proud of their river rock finish, heh.
You don't have to. But if it's particularly rough, you can. Some do just to start with smoother base.
I sanded one down a bit a while back, but it was a rescue. Burned it off in the wood stove and started from scratch. It was really rough to start, probably pitted over the decades. I also took care to sand the bottom well so I could *carefully* use it on the glasstop.
Interesting to see the Highwind Amplification branding on there from the circuit designer. I donāt think Iāve seen that before. Seems smart on their part. If you canāt beat āem join em. Might as well get some ad space out of the deal. Got me onto their website just now.
I decided to give OshPark a whirl and try out @keyth72 Funbox. Still waiting on the daisy seed though. When I track it itās been all across the US and back. Not real sure whatās going there. boards though, woohooo.
I actually own a Ox Stomp too that I use with a Suhr Reactive Load. The Suhr is a slightly better attenuator but the speaker-cab-mikes simulation in the Ox stuff obliterates IRs. Not to mention the built in 1176 comp, plate reverb, and delay.
I need a three channel stereo mixer now, and I was thinking about building something but I think Iāll just buy the Behringer RX1602 and call it day. The extra channels will come handy for synths etc.
The custom chassis I ordered for my Model T build came in the other day along with the last few bits I hadnāt ordered yet:
Going with the same spec components as I used in my GT120 build except the extra chassis space is allowing me to take things further like: 10w non-inductive wire wound resistors, external fuse, individual external screw driver accessible full size bias pot, and external bias test point - for each power tube. Tocos pots. F&T multi cans for entire power string. Nichicons for the bias filtering. Correct Rogan witch hat knobs that start at 0. I did decide to go with the Marshall style lighted rocker power switch. The originals are available but they look cheap to me.
The chassis feels very spacious compared to the GT120 chassis. 21āx10ā vs 17āx7ā.
So it didnāt fit in my mailbox but this was my recent Temu purchase. A friend of mine does work on acoustics and said a few folks had brought him temu guitars and they were way better than they should be for the money. I paid $100 delivered. Once it got here I gave it to him. It has bone nut and saddle (came with it) which he said he barely tweaked and did a fret level just because itās good practice for an initial setup. He said the frets were almost perfect already. The only thing he said negative was the fretboard and bridge were pretty dry. A little oil and bam, perfect! I had him put a fresh set of stringjoy Foxwoods in it (we like to support local companies) While it was at his shop some other folks saw it and gave it a try. Everyone who play it was amazed. He works on professional musicians stuff in Nashville so itās not your normal guitar center crowd. If you ignore the name on the top or didnāt have any clue you would swear itās a 3k + guitar. I bought it to leave out and not have to worry about my dog or kids destroying an expensive instrument and ended up with one I want to make sure I protect, lol. I am going to install a k&k in it next which will be more than I have in the guitar, lol. Hell I will probably have to order another one just in case. Now I am not saying every Temu guitar is great but I rolled the dice and won pretty big.
Interesting to see the Highwind Amplification branding on there from the circuit designer. I donāt think Iāve seen that before. Seems smart on their part. If you canāt beat āem join em. Might as well get some ad space out of the deal. Got me onto their website just now.
