What's in the mailbox? 📬 📦

womp womp

Well shoot. I had to get stuff from mouser that wasn't carried elsewhere, so it's always that balance of shipping costs and multiple orders. I try not to overthink it, but I might've underthought :p
Always seems for me when I order I always need to order 3 places at the same time as some parts are only at Tayda, others only SBP, and others Mouser.
Except Switchcraft jacks, NO ONE even comes close to Amazon for those!
 
Always seems for me when I order I always need to order 3 places at the same time as some parts are only at Tayda, others only SBP, and others Mouser.
Except Switchcraft jacks, NO ONE even comes close to Amazon for those!
Are you buying switchctaft from switchctaft?
Or "switchctaft" fromq vender named similiar to bangofun27 or a series of vowels yeeuuioo?
Cause if they're coming from vowels r us, they're probably the same as tayda jacks.
 
First of the last orders (for a while) came in from Jameco. Wanted to take a chance on the 308 cans they have. Also got a poly cap grab bag, because I'd rather pay for that and get something than the fee for the min order amount :p

6BD2JNU.jpg


and actually, not a bad spread for lead spacing. I was expecting much worse. Like, all 250V caps like that honker there

pE4PZcl.jpg


Haven't separated by value yet, but I'm pretty pleased with that.
Let me know what you find. They seemed alright to me at first glance. Will try them in a rat derivative at some point. Working on boxing up built circuits before populationing any more currently.
 
Are you buying switchctaft from switchctaft?
Or "switchctaft" fromq vender named similiar to bangofun27 or a series of vowels yeeuuioo?
Cause if they're coming from vowels r us, they're probably the same as tayda jacks.
It was Art Of Tone, who is a legit shop. And I’ve used enough real switchcraft over the years as well as the knockoffs to know the difference (insulator material different color, the metal actually springs back, company markings vs generic “China” markings, hardware has correct markings, correct (imperial) sized barrel and hole, and even the thread pitch is the correct SAE threads and not metric.

And they still are like $2.40 each (in lots of 10), compared to the $0.50 each.
 
It was Art Of Tone, who is a legit shop. And I’ve used enough real switchcraft over the years as well as the knockoffs to know the difference (insulator material different color, the metal actually springs back, company markings vs generic “China” markings, hardware has correct markings, correct (imperial) sized barrel and hole, and even the thread pitch is the correct SAE threads and not metric.

And they still are like $2.40 each (in lots of 10), compared to the $0.50 each.
I like open frame jacks. I don’t spring for switchcraft though. The neutrik ones seem plenty solid to me. I had been spending 1.80 for them at tayda until I realized they’re 1.35 at Stompboxparts.
 
I like open frame jacks. I don’t spring for switchcraft though. The neutrik ones seem plenty solid to me. I had been spending 1.80 for them at tayda until I realized they’re 1.35 at Stompboxparts.
Unfortunately I had a batch of Neutrik closed circuit type jacks fail first use (input of a tweed deluxe)… the jack worked but the switching tab stopped working literally after the first use, so since then I’ve stuck with Switchcraft. I’m sure it was likely just a bad batch, or someone sold me knockoffs, but once burned, I stay clear from now on.
Only problem I see is that they do take a bit more space up inside the enclosures than the panel style… but again after 40+ years of no premature failures, I stick with what I know and trust.
 
Let me know what you find. They seemed alright to me at first glance. Will try them in a rat derivative at some point. Working on boxing up built circuits before populationing any more currently.
I haven't even done serious testing with the one Derevaun PIF'd me 😬 I should just breadboard one up. I was using my Field Marshall Rat (Fat Rat) but I can never remember when the filter or MOSFET is engaged or not, so I need vanilla.
 
Got a brand new All-Clad 8 quart stainless steel "rondeau" pan with lid and an 8" stainless fry pan (specifically for omelettes) today. I am very excited about both. Unfortunately I have the flu (and so do my wife and kids) so not much energy for cooking projects at the moment. It's been a crappy 2024 so far and the election hasn't even occurred...
 
First of the last orders (for a while) came in from Jameco.
I don't think this exists. Every time I think I'm done ordering parts for a while, I either buy a board that needs an IC I don't have, or I read one of these threads that leaves me feeling like I need some random part that I probably won't need for another six months, but I buy it anyway.
 
Few bits from Bezosmart
2x CHP-170s. nicked the old pair. They had a good run.
Bus board BB830, in getting back into BBing, found that my old ones from college have some internal issues.
Paladin strippers. Gonna see how these fair with ptfe solid core. Had a set of ratshacks like these from 2 decades+ ago. Can't find them.
2024-01-2815.36.141698157869450407868.jpg
 
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Few bits from Bezosmart
2x CHP-170s. nicked the old pair. They had a good run.
Bus board BB830, in getting back into BBing, found that my old ones from college have some internal issues.
Paladin strippers. Gonna see how these fair with ptfe solid core. Had a set of ratshacks like these from 2 decades+ ago. Can't find them.
View attachment 67062
Bezosmart 🤣🤣🤣
 
....
Paladin strippers. Gonna see how these fair with ptfe solid core.
Update, first impressions on the Paladins after adjusting the stop screw:
They work very well for solid core. They can break the insulation without much/any bite into the conductor. Best to use them just for that, don't try to pull the insulation off with them. Just bite, release, then pull the insulation off with your fingers to avoid messing up the wiring.
 
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