Missing Build Docs / Schematics

Thanks for the responses. In any case I'd prefer to know exact parts to prepare my shopping card properly without having any guess issues. Either a pcb photo with the values or a schematic could really help if it is difficult to prepare a doc.
 
ntuncer said:
Thanks for the responses. In any case I'd prefer to know exact parts to prepare my shopping card properly without having any guess issues. Either a pcb photo with the values or a schematic could really help if it is difficult to prepare a doc.
Click to expand...

Pro10.jpg


The caps with polarity marked on the PCB (a circle outline with a square pad and "+" sign) will be electrolytics. Film or ceramic or mlcc for everything else; as mentioned above, generally people use ceramic caps for pF values and film for nF values. That's a rule of thumb, and honestly you can probably interchange bi-polar caps of whatever type at will and be fine. I don't remember pedalpcb BOMs specifying what type of cap to use in what position, but maybe they do?
 
mdc said:
Pro10.jpg


The caps with polarity marked on the PCB (a circle outline with a square pad and "+" sign) will be electrolytics. Film or ceramic or mlcc for everything else; as mentioned above, generally people use ceramic caps for pF values and film for nF values. That's a rule of thumb, and honestly you can probably interchange bi-polar caps of whatever type at will and be fine. I don't remember pedalpcb BOMs specifying what type of cap to use in what position, but maybe they do?
Click to expand...
The problem is in Pro-10-BOM.txt there are only values and quantities of the parts so I don't know which value is for C120 for example. Anyway I will wait the proper documentation for this build. Thanks everyone for the information.

Cheers
 
Sorry, I'm not sure I understand your issue? You wanted to order parts before the board arrived, correct? I think it's been asked and answered a few times in this thread already, but just in case:

CERAMIC:
1 56p
1 100p
1 120p
1 560p

FILM:
1 1n
1 2n7
1 4n7
2 8n2
4 10n
2 22n
1 27n
1 47n
3 82n
4 100n
2 220n
1 470n
4 1u Film

ELECTROLYTIC:
3 2u2
1 3u3
1 4u7
3 10u
3 100u
 
ntuncer said:
The problem is in Pro-10-BOM.txt there are only values and quantities of the parts so I don't know which value is for C120 for example. Anyway I will wait the proper documentation for this build. Thanks everyone for the information.

Cheers
Click to expand...
The PCB silkscreen will have all the part values printed on it, no need to map the cap/resistor number to a value.
 
mdc said:
Sorry, I'm not sure I understand your issue? You wanted to order parts before the board arrived, correct? I think it's been asked and answered a few times in this thread already, but just in case:

CERAMIC:
1 56p
1 100p
1 120p
1 560p

FILM:
1 1n
1 2n7
1 4n7
2 8n2
4 10n
2 22n
1 27n
1 47n
3 82n
4 100n
2 220n
1 470n
4 1u Film

ELECTROLYTIC:
3 2u2
1 3u3
1 4u7
3 10u
3 100u
Click to expand...
thank a lot! yes I want to order the parts before the boards arrive. Most of the time I cannot find them in one supplier so try to avoid to buy wrong parts.
 
Not realizing the build docs were not yet up, I spontaneously bought a Double Pendulum board because I love playing with stereo effects and have been wanting to build a stereo trem. I think I've figured out the basic BOM from the values printed on the PCB, but I have a couple of questions: for the LEDs that activate the LEDRs, is there a particular color recommended? I used a 5mm yellow for my Abyss vibrato - any reason to use anything different on this one? Also, does it matter what specific diodes I use from the 1N581 and 1N414 families? I'm not really familiar with the difference between a 1N5817 and a 1N5818, e.g., (differing reverse breakdown voltages?) or whether any of those differences matter for this pedal. Finally, is there a good place to track down the offboard wiring for this one? Particularly the 4PDT board, which has 9 unlabeled contacts. Of course, I also realize I jumped the gun on this one, and I'm not in any rush. Feel free to tell me to wait patiently for the build docs to be posted. Thanks!
 
For the LED you could socket it and try different colors. I am afraid I can’t help on the other questions.
 
I have a build doc question: would it be possible to add potential mods to the build docs? I’m not suggesting to add all possible mods, but maybe tried and true ones like the ones Chuck suggests sometimes or popular ones that can be found on this forum or elsewhere online?
 
Hokinator said:
Not realizing the build docs were not yet up, I spontaneously bought a Double Pendulum board because I love playing with stereo effects and have been wanting to build a stereo trem. I think I've figured out the basic BOM from the values printed on the PCB, but I have a couple of questions: for the LEDs that activate the LEDRs, is there a particular color recommended? I used a 5mm yellow for my Abyss vibrato - any reason to use anything different on this one? Also, does it matter what specific diodes I use from the 1N581 and 1N414 families? I'm not really familiar with the difference between a 1N5817 and a 1N5818, e.g., (differing reverse breakdown voltages?) or whether any of those differences matter for this pedal. Finally, is there a good place to track down the offboard wiring for this one? Particularly the 4PDT board, which has 9 unlabeled contacts. Of course, I also realize I jumped the gun on this one, and I'm not in any rush. Feel free to tell me to wait patiently for the build docs to be posted. Thanks!
Click to expand...
The mono pendulum specs a 5mm red and a KE-10720 or GL5516 LDR, so I would assume this specs the same parts.
 
Looking for the board wiring for the Double Pendulum. Is there a similar board diagram that anyone can point me to?

Thanks
 
ryland said:
Looking for the board wiring for the Double Pendulum. Is there a similar board diagram that anyone can point me to?

Thanks
Click to expand...

DoublePendulum.jpg

If you want Mono -> Stereo operation you'll want to use switching 1/4" jacks and connect a wire from the Tip of the Left Input jack to the Switched Tip of the Right Input jack. This will allow you to plug into the Left input only and get stereo output.
 
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