Thanks for the documents.Pro-10 BOM and drill template, working on the full doc and the others today.
Thanks for the documents.
it would be very nice if you could share cap types cause the image doesn't show the value of the caps and I don't know which types they should be.
1 56p
1 100p
1 120p
1 560p
1 1n
1 2n7
1 4n7
2 8n2
4 10n
2 22n
1 27n
1 47n
3 82n
4 100n
2 220n
1 470n
4 1u Film
3 2u2
1 3u3
1 4u7
3 10u
3 100u
Cheers
+1 Also, you can definitely tell which ones should be electrolytic because the silkscreen will have a circle and the leads close together. For ceramic vs film, just get ceramic if you can't find film (typically when the values are too low).The (Rough) Capacitor Type Rule:
p = picofarads = ceramic disc/MLCC (<10000p)
n = nanofarads = film box (<1000n)
u = microfarads = electrolytic (>1u)
These are rough guidelines, not rules…kinda like the pirate code…
Thanks for the responses. In any case I'd prefer to know exact parts to prepare my shopping card properly without having any guess issues. Either a pcb photo with the values or a schematic could really help if it is difficult to prepare a doc.
The problem is in Pro-10-BOM.txt there are only values and quantities of the parts so I don't know which value is for C120 for example. Anyway I will wait the proper documentation for this build. Thanks everyone for the information.
The caps with polarity marked on the PCB (a circle outline with a square pad and "+" sign) will be electrolytics. Film or ceramic or mlcc for everything else; as mentioned above, generally people use ceramic caps for pF values and film for nF values. That's a rule of thumb, and honestly you can probably interchange bi-polar caps of whatever type at will and be fine. I don't remember pedalpcb BOMs specifying what type of cap to use in what position, but maybe they do?
The PCB silkscreen will have all the part values printed on it, no need to map the cap/resistor number to a value.The problem is in Pro-10-BOM.txt there are only values and quantities of the parts so I don't know which value is for C120 for example. Anyway I will wait the proper documentation for this build. Thanks everyone for the information.
Cheers
thank a lot! yes I want to order the parts before the boards arrive. Most of the time I cannot find them in one supplier so try to avoid to buy wrong parts.Sorry, I'm not sure I understand your issue? You wanted to order parts before the board arrived, correct? I think it's been asked and answered a few times in this thread already, but just in case:
CERAMIC:
1 56p
1 100p
1 120p
1 560p
FILM:
1 1n
1 2n7
1 4n7
2 8n2
4 10n
2 22n
1 27n
1 47n
3 82n
4 100n
2 220n
1 470n
4 1u Film
ELECTROLYTIC:
3 2u2
1 3u3
1 4u7
3 10u
3 100u
The mono pendulum specs a 5mm red and a KE-10720 or GL5516 LDR, so I would assume this specs the same parts.Not realizing the build docs were not yet up, I spontaneously bought a Double Pendulum board because I love playing with stereo effects and have been wanting to build a stereo trem. I think I've figured out the basic BOM from the values printed on the PCB, but I have a couple of questions: for the LEDs that activate the LEDRs, is there a particular color recommended? I used a 5mm yellow for my Abyss vibrato - any reason to use anything different on this one? Also, does it matter what specific diodes I use from the 1N581 and 1N414 families? I'm not really familiar with the difference between a 1N5817 and a 1N5818, e.g., (differing reverse breakdown voltages?) or whether any of those differences matter for this pedal. Finally, is there a good place to track down the offboard wiring for this one? Particularly the 4PDT board, which has 9 unlabeled contacts. Of course, I also realize I jumped the gun on this one, and I'm not in any rush. Feel free to tell me to wait patiently for the build docs to be posted. Thanks!
Can we get anything for the Low Tide Mini? I know it's new but maybe just the BoM.