Brett
Well-known member
I’m incredibly sorry for the loss of your wife. It seems you both love animals, something I respect deeply.
What’s on *YOUR* workbench?
- Thread starter Bricksnbeatles
- Start date
DGWVI
Well-known member
Nope. Each of the Pythagoras' are -
LoFi Machine / Pitch Shifter / Ring Mod
The order will be fixed, and go -
Pythagoras > Squidward > Pythagoras
As for the relays, I've had em lying around, populated for a while, so decided to finally use them in this. Will be cool to get blasts of bit crusher or ring Mod. Probably won't use the channel switching, but it's there if I wanna mess with it, I suppose
Haven't decided if the FX loop will be pre or post Squidward yet.
I'm omitting the cap and crystal so I can utilize the Clock modules
DAJE
Well-known member
Green amp jewel. Not sure where this came from or why it was in one of my boxes of crap, but on discovering it today I immediately thought "pedal".
It doesn't have a nut with it but I'm sure I can find one. The threaded part is slightly larger than a footswitch hole so I'm guessing it's 13mm.
I tried it with various LEDs. A white LED with a fairly high (10K+) resistor looks best.
It doesn't have a nut with it but I'm sure I can find one. The threaded part is slightly larger than a footswitch hole so I'm guessing it's 13mm.
I tried it with various LEDs. A white LED with a fairly high (10K+) resistor looks best.
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Alan W
Well-known member
Not pedal, or even music related, but I think it will still be of general interest. I gave my business away to my employees at the end of 2020, but I still have shop use, and go in both to help with issues (usually dealing with one of our benevolent California bureaucracies..., or a tricky estimate). Or, if a project involves odd lighting or pretty much any working electronics—no one else seemed interested, and they were always the projects that I wanted to do myself anyway.
I just finished this a few days ago. Can't say what it is (basically a small ( 5.5 inches tall) desktop telecommunications device), but can show an image or two. The chassis holds provided, working circuit boards, except for the small board to take the 5 v input and up it to 12 v for the LEDs. The housing was several 3D prints, both filament and resin. (I had a hand in the CAD, but someone else did the finish work—I not working anymore, right?) The aluminum chassis was waterjet cut (something we send out; our lasers do not like aluminum) and then a few simple folds.
The trick was how to make the lighting happen. When off, you can just barely see the white logo, on a black mirror face. When the device is powered on, the LEDs (white, which ring the perimeter of the front plate, which is 1/8th acrylic, with a partially mirrored back surface) come on and ooh-la-la. Then, about 5/16 inch behind that front plate, is a second sheet, 1/6th thick, that is fully mirrored, with a clear red tint applied to the front. The thin white line is laser cut into the back of the front plate. This was the main stickler; getting it as visible as possible when lit, and as invisible as possible when off. The infinity part took several adjustments to get right, but that darn white line took about a dozen trials of different depth and width cuts. The industrial designer had no idea how any of this would happen, but was also open to understanding what was involved, and what slight changes his design needed to make it happen. (ID designer without ego issues = rare!)
I just finished this a few days ago. Can't say what it is (basically a small ( 5.5 inches tall) desktop telecommunications device), but can show an image or two. The chassis holds provided, working circuit boards, except for the small board to take the 5 v input and up it to 12 v for the LEDs. The housing was several 3D prints, both filament and resin. (I had a hand in the CAD, but someone else did the finish work—I not working anymore, right?) The aluminum chassis was waterjet cut (something we send out; our lasers do not like aluminum) and then a few simple folds.
The trick was how to make the lighting happen. When off, you can just barely see the white logo, on a black mirror face. When the device is powered on, the LEDs (white, which ring the perimeter of the front plate, which is 1/8th acrylic, with a partially mirrored back surface) come on and ooh-la-la. Then, about 5/16 inch behind that front plate, is a second sheet, 1/6th thick, that is fully mirrored, with a clear red tint applied to the front. The thin white line is laser cut into the back of the front plate. This was the main stickler; getting it as visible as possible when lit, and as invisible as possible when off. The infinity part took several adjustments to get right, but that darn white line took about a dozen trials of different depth and width cuts. The industrial designer had no idea how any of this would happen, but was also open to understanding what was involved, and what slight changes his design needed to make it happen. (ID designer without ego issues = rare!)
Attachments
Laundryroom David
Keyboard Cowboy 🤠
Daaaaaaaaammmnnn. That is cool.
KR Sound
Well-known member
That’s a sharp looking pedal. What is the second LED hooked up to?
it's the comp indicator, hooked to IC1 pins 6 and 7
Mentaltossflycoon
Well-known member
So... this is mildly earth shattering but I might prefer the octarock to the ocelot. While the octarock seems more dynamic, when either are set with just the octave down soloed they seem below unity. I feel the need to boost with that setting either way so there's no preference there. I had a moonn kobold (escobedo duende) laying around which sounds pretty good after it so that'll go in the box. Anyone else experience this or am I putting a band aid on a broken leg?
If you have an octarock and a cream pie laying around, it's worth plugging them together and cranking your biggest amp. Not a bad time at all. Now I'm just waiting for tayda to get me that 1590bb2.
If you have an octarock and a cream pie laying around, it's worth plugging them together and cranking your biggest amp. Not a bad time at all. Now I'm just waiting for tayda to get me that 1590bb2.
Mentaltossflycoon
Well-known member
Sorry, dude. Hopefully that fuzzrite makes everything alright.
andare
Well-known member
Thank you. I guess I'm gonna need massive doses of fuzz to get over this.
Super Nice Build!!!
These need to be listed in Build Reports:
I was doing some a/b-ing myself this weekend between the ocelot and octarock. For my bass needs I think I still prefer the ocelot, but the Octarock is bees knees for guitar. That said, yes, I experience a little volume drop with both. My combo of the weekend is Ocelot->Sonic Reducer->MiniMu
Mentaltossflycoon
Well-known member
Yeah man, I also enjoy sonically reducing some ocelot. I was just doing ocelot>gas tank>junk trunk at a rehearsal this afternoon. Reminds me that I need to rehouse my sonic reducer asap. It's been sitting around nekkid for a few weeks and I miss it.
enrosenzweig
Well-known member
This evening, I populated one of the piggybacking boards I made and quickly realized something was off…
The transistors are BC846Bs and should be in the 200-400 range on their own. The whole point of piggybacking is to lower the hFE, not send it through the roof.
Oops, parallel vs series resistors makes a big difference!
The next step is to setup one of the boards with a single transistor so I can compare the sound of each in the same circuit (at the moment, I have a Rangemaster on the breadboard).
The transistors are BC846Bs and should be in the 200-400 range on their own. The whole point of piggybacking is to lower the hFE, not send it through the roof.
Oops, parallel vs series resistors makes a big difference!
The next step is to setup one of the boards with a single transistor so I can compare the sound of each in the same circuit (at the moment, I have a Rangemaster on the breadboard).