Spatialist reverb issue

[jrh312]

I put together the Spatialist (FV1 soldered on by PedalPCB) but am having issues. More doesn't work than does work.

1. Volume pot is functioning backwards....full left is max volume.

2. Mix pot acts as volume also, so I m assuming "max volume" on the mix pot is actually a full dry signal and "no volume" is full wet.

3. Top 3 pots do nothing at all.

4. Rotary switch causes no change, but I can hear a dull thud when I switch it. Causes no change to the sound and all sound just like it's bypassed.

I also included a screenshot of the oscillating crystal I'm using because I had some on hand. It's the same frequency as the one in the BOM but I got it from Tayda so it might not be an exact match. Wondering if that might be the issue because it seems like the FV1 is not functioning as it should.

 

[steviejr92]

@PJS is correct Pin 13 should be sitting at 3.3V. Something is wrong there.

 

[steviejr92]

You didnt happen to lift the traces here did you or is that just the lighting?

 

[jrh312]

@PJS is correct Pin 13 should be sitting at 3.3V. Something is wrong there.

Yeah I wondered about that when I originally did the voltages. So if I wanted to connect r5 to ground I should just be able to keep it seated and touch a grounded wire to it, right? Or do I need to actually desolder a leg completely?

 

[steviejr92]

You would need to solder one end to either of the pads. Then the other end other resistor would go to a GND point.

 

[jrh312]

You didnt happen to lift the traces here did you or is that just the lighting?
View attachment 42357

I can't tell if I did or not. I've never done a PCB build prior to this so I'm not sure what it would look like.....but those two were a real pain in the ass to solder because the blob kept wanting to come off with the iron. If I did lift them, what if anything can be done?

 

[steviejr92]

I can't tell if I did or not. I've never done a PCB build prior to this so I'm not sure what it would look like.....but those two were a real pain in the ass to solder because the blob kept wanting to come off with the iron. If I did lift them, what if anything can be done?

Judging by the voltages on your pins i think that area is ok. But if you did lift a trace you have to make the connection between 2 components that that trace was connected to. Lets not get ahead of ourselves though.

I really think that there's a cold solder joint somewhere either that or you fried a component. I would honestly reflow every joint if nothing happens after that then were going to need some extra help lol

 

[jrh312]

So I reflowed everything. Still not passing audio on pin 28. I do have 3.3v on pin 13 now and audio on pin 14 of IC1. None of those 3 resistors have changed though.

 

[steviejr92]

So I reflowed everything. Still not passing audio on pin 28. I do have 3.3v on pin 13 now and audio on pin 14 of IC1. None of those 3 resistors have changed though.

Have you tested the circuit by plugging it in yet?

 

[PJS]

To have audio on IC1 pin 14 but not at pin 28 of the FV-1 I am guessing means that you are getting the clean signal through to there. If you are getting audio to pin 1 of the FV-1 then you should get audio out at pin 28 as long as everything connected to the FV-1 is soldered correctly. I would try lifting R5 and grounding it - just to rule in/out the EEPROM as a place to look at.

 

[jrh312]

Have you tested the circuit by plugging it in yet?

No but I figured if it's not passing audio on the probe it won't on a guitar and amp. I can try it though.

 

[steviejr92]

No but I figured if it's not passing audio on the probe it won't on a guitar and amp. I can try it though.

I would take PJS suggestion at this point!

 

[jrh312]

To have audio on IC1 pin 14 but not at pin 28 of the FV-1 I am guessing means that you are getting the clean signal through to there. If you are getting audio to pin 1 of the FV-1 then you should get audio out at pin 28 as long as everything connected to the FV-1 is soldered correctly. I would try lifting R5 and grounding it - just to rule in/out the EEPROM as a place to look at.

Progress. Grounding R5 gives me audio at Pin 28 as well as R19 and R21 since they're in series. Still nothing at R20 though

 

[steviejr92]

It might be your EEPROM. @PJS what do you think?

 

[Robert]

Pin 14 is the clock line for the EEPROM, you shouldn't have audio there.

If grounding R5 gave you signal you might need a new EEPROM, although you should still have clean signal at R4/R20 if the Mix pot isn't turned all the way up.

 

[jrh312]

Pin 14 is the clock line for the EEPROM, you shouldn't have audio there.

If grounding R5 gave you signal you might need a new EEPROM, although you should still have clean signal at R4/R20 if the Mix pot isn't turned all the way up.

Pin 14 of what? The FV1? If so, I don't have audio there. The pin 14 we had been talking about is from IC1.

At this point is it worth me contacting them for a replacement EEPROM?

 

[PJS]

The solder on your EEPROM socket looks good, but I would reflow it anyway just in case. You were measuring correct voltages on it before. That is a good sign. I do know from experience though that the connections from the FV-1 to the EEPROM can be good enough for a multimeter to say that there is continuity there, but it is still not good enough for proper high frequency digital communication. I think at the beginning you said that the FV-1 was pre-soldered for you. If you are game, I would still reflow pin 14 and 15 as well - only if you are pretty sure you can accurately hit just the single pin. From your photo I think that pin 14 could do with a very small bit more solder as well, but that is a very delicate thing to do if you have never soldered SMD.

 

[jrh312]

The solder on your EEPROM socket looks good, but I would reflow it anyway just in case. You were measuring correct voltages on it before. That is a good sign. I do know from experience though that the connections from the FV-1 to the EEPROM can be good enough for a multimeter to say that there is continuity there, but it is still not good enough for proper high frequency digital communication. I think at the beginning you said that the FV-1 was pre-soldered for you. If you are game, I would still reflow pin 14 and 15 as well - only if you are pretty sure you can accurately hit just the single pin. From your photo I think that pin 14 could do with a very small bit more solder as well, but that is a very delicate thing to do if you have never soldered SMD.

Never did SMD, no. I'll take a look in the morning and see how it looks in person here.

 

[PJS]

I don't suppose you happen to have another FV-1 based board or pedal lying around? If so you can swap the EEPROM in and see what happens - to test a new EEPROM you will need to have R5 connected to 3.3V again. Personally on my Arachnid build once I lifted R5 I soldered it to a switch with 0v and 3.3v on the switch so I can access the internal programs or EEPROM programs at will

 

[jrh312]

I don't suppose you happen to have another FV-1 based board or pedal lying around? If so you can swap the EEPROM in and see what happens - to test a new EEPROM you will need to have R5 connected to 3.3V again. Personally on my Arachnid build once I lifted R5 I soldered it to a switch with 0v and 3.3v on the switch so I can access the internal programs or EEPROM programs at will

No I don't. This was my first PCB build actually. I normally just do Vero

 

[jrh312]

So here's a thought..... The website shows a picture of a 24LC32a EEPROM, which is what the schematic and BOM call for. Mine very clearly has 24LC64 printed on it. Any chance those two are not a direct replacement for one another? I wonder if they sent me the wrong chip.