What’s on *YOUR* workbench?
- Thread starter Bricksnbeatles
- Start date
Feral Feline
Well-known member
After falling in love with the Curds and Whey, I decided to whip up it's lil cousin, the Bronx Cheer. Trying to decide what else to stuff into the enclosure (125b)
View attachment 47062
Pair Bronx Cheer with a Jawari ...
... or an Escobedo TMK, or some half-baked octave down... a Blue Box.
EDIT/PS Oooh, the MOLOKO, pair it with a JEN/PlayBoy and a Zvex Machine clone!
Feral Feline
Well-known member
What about modding as per the Tagboard site?
That's what I want to do with the circuit, full footswitch fatigue!
DGWVI
Well-known member
I do have some Jawari boards from Moonn on the way
That's actually how I've built the last few. But, those were also running parallel with several PLL circuitsWhat about modding as per the Tagboard site?
That's what I want to do with the circuit, full footswitch fatigue!
I really think I just don't jive with its lack of accuracy in regard to pitch, and it's not as cool as a straight up traditional ring mod or octave box. But, I got a buncha HT8590s to burn through, so
Feral Feline
Well-known member
I can take a few HT8590s off your hands if you like.
Speaking of which, anybody got a spare MadBean Mandroid they want to get rid of?
Speaking of which, anybody got a spare MadBean Mandroid they want to get rid of?
RetiredUnit1
Well-known member
The window! The cat was clearly telling you that those plastic drawers in the organizers are not UV proof and that you need to move them before the backs rot out. Been there done that.
Plus the cat obviously decided the window was his. At least the drapes are still in one piece!!!!!
Passinwind
Well-known member
Time to build myself something in my preferred desktop format with side jacks and no footswitch:
Heresy, it's not just for breakfast anymore!
Heresy, it's not just for breakfast anymore!
DGWVI
Well-known member
I've been meaning to rearrange the room anyway. Think this was his way of motivating me
RetiredUnit1
Well-known member
I built a light bulb current limiter. This is for initial power-up on an amp after building or repairing it. If everything is normal, the light bulb will dim when you turn the power on and will slowly become brighter. If something is amiss the light bulb will not dim. This gives you a chance to turn the amp back off before something smokes.
You have to cut the brass connector between the upper and lower screw terminals on the hot and neutral sides, severing the parallel connections between the top and bottom outlets. The top hot is wired directly from the plug, but it's output is wrapped around to the hot on the bottom outlet, and then the neutral wire from the plug is wired to neutral of the bottom outlet, putting the two outlets in series instead of parallel.
In all the amps I've built, I never used one in the belief that "I don't make those kinds of mistakes". Harrumph. Only the last amp I built didn't make noise! Turns out there was a broken leg on the preamp second stage tube socket, so I didn't make a mistake but it got me to thinking "well, it couldn't hurt" lmao....
And I'm re-capping a 1976 Bassman Ten, plus I'm going to replace all seven diodes in the rectifier and bias power supply. So I figured, yeah, I'd feel pretty stupid if I fried a 47 year old Fender.
As I was researching this wonderful, but under-rated monster of an amp I found that there was very little in the way of documentation on it, and the layouts were far from being to scale. So I figured I'd do that. I'll post it for posterity on TGP where it will be easily found when I'm done with it. Since I was redoing the power caps, I started with that:
If you look at the output transformer, you'll see the amp has been hit hard enough to bend the mounting ears, I've since straightened those out and replaced the incorrect sharp and pointy metal screws that "Mr. fixit" used with the period correct flat point metal screws since they are under the circuit board. They were also so small they practically jumped out after half a turn. Mr. Fixit strikes again. I also have to fabricate the back panel and replace chassis strap that Fixit lost (I'll just use both the new ones since they come in pairs and are original Fender). <<sigh>>
You have to cut the brass connector between the upper and lower screw terminals on the hot and neutral sides, severing the parallel connections between the top and bottom outlets. The top hot is wired directly from the plug, but it's output is wrapped around to the hot on the bottom outlet, and then the neutral wire from the plug is wired to neutral of the bottom outlet, putting the two outlets in series instead of parallel.
In all the amps I've built, I never used one in the belief that "I don't make those kinds of mistakes". Harrumph. Only the last amp I built didn't make noise! Turns out there was a broken leg on the preamp second stage tube socket, so I didn't make a mistake but it got me to thinking "well, it couldn't hurt" lmao....
And I'm re-capping a 1976 Bassman Ten, plus I'm going to replace all seven diodes in the rectifier and bias power supply. So I figured, yeah, I'd feel pretty stupid if I fried a 47 year old Fender.
As I was researching this wonderful, but under-rated monster of an amp I found that there was very little in the way of documentation on it, and the layouts were far from being to scale. So I figured I'd do that. I'll post it for posterity on TGP where it will be easily found when I'm done with it. Since I was redoing the power caps, I started with that:
If you look at the output transformer, you'll see the amp has been hit hard enough to bend the mounting ears, I've since straightened those out and replaced the incorrect sharp and pointy metal screws that "Mr. fixit" used with the period correct flat point metal screws since they are under the circuit board. They were also so small they practically jumped out after half a turn. Mr. Fixit strikes again. I also have to fabricate the back panel and replace chassis strap that Fixit lost (I'll just use both the new ones since they come in pairs and are original Fender). <<sigh>>
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DGWVI
Well-known member
Took this as an opportunity to get all of my chips and chip accessories into one drawer unit
Also gave me a chance to do a more accurate inventory than a cursory glance, and the only chips I'm close to low on are TL072s
This should have freed up enough space that I can fit the less often used resistor and cap values in some drawers, so I'm not having to reach under my bench everytime I need a 13.4k or a 1.5u
jimilee
Well-known member
Nice. I wish I had room for something like this, it would make my life a lot easier, too,
fig
Village Idiot
Wow, they still make real wood?
benny_profane
Well-known member
