PB blaster.
If that doesn't work, cutoff on a Dremel through the nut.
What’s on *YOUR* workbench?
- Thread starter Bricksnbeatles
- Start date
If that doesn't work, cutoff on a Dremel through the nut.
Love rivnuts. I actually just ordered a handful more end pieces on Ali today to accompany my Doyle. Will have M3-M12 and queens units.
Now, if only pcb makers would add mounting holes.
If you find you need rivnuts or rivets, they're super cheap over there. Especially if you know what size and aren't buying a kit. I found the end pieces, not sure technical term, nut spline, nut crusher? For $2-2.50 each shipped free.
steviejr92
Authorized Vendor
Man youre a life saver! I really appreciate it, the rivet nut setter came with a mix of different sized rivnuts. I have a project where i think ill be using the M6 or M8 rivnuts so i can mount allen wrench style bolts!
I was actually wondering where i was going to be getting more and i started looking at Amazon but I think Ill look int o that route that seems super cheap!
Are you you talking about the mandrel?
Yeah. That's the word!
Here's the listing I bought from.
Was the cheapest I could find that had M3 and M4 both in stock.
If you know you'll be beating the M6/8 mandrel, probably good to have a spare.
If you're not in the know, "choice" listings come with free "fast"(12 business day) shipping after a minimum amount is reached, usually $10-15, regardless of seller.
Typically seem to see it in 2 weeks. Sometimes 10 days, sometimes 20.
steviejr92
Authorized Vendor
Yeah I will be buying a spare for sure! I would imagine the threading can get worn after quite a bit of use.
Thanks for a point in the right direction, I’m looking forward to putting the rivet nut setter to use. It’s something I didn’t know I needed for a little while now!
Passinwind
Well-known member
I have several friends who've tried to use various inexpensive solutions, as I've also done a few times in the past. We all learned a lot, at least.
My refurb on the one in post #2885 ended up taking about three hours. One NOS pot was suspect and got replaced right off, but the root problem was a fractured wire in some $$$ mil spec shielded cable that was pretty much impossible to see. Super easy to find with an o-scope though, once I had fabricated a quick and dirty battery power supply. Somewhere I have a set of jumpers for the power module's aux supply...somewhere! Anyhow, the amp was much cleaner inside than expected, considering it had been to NAMM and also served as my luthier friend's reference amp in his shop for several years. He's in love with my tube builds now though, so I think a trade back is probable. That case was a "freebie" from Protocase, I insisted on a do-over on their nickel because they totally spaced out on the actual build spec we agreed on. The replacement came out great though, and those enclosures cost more than the entire rest of the build, I think.
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JTEX
Well-known member
Resonant LPF plus a bass boost/cut knob. One-off build into a little box for a top client to try with various basses/pickups.
The LED draws as much juice as the rest of the guts, even though it's fed through a 15k resistor. But if I don't put one in, people will forget to unplug the cable to turn it off... Maybe I should build more of my micropower lo-batt indicators, except nobody buys them
The LED draws as much juice as the rest of the guts, even though it's fed through a 15k resistor. But if I don't put one in, people will forget to unplug the cable to turn it off... Maybe I should build more of my micropower lo-batt indicators, except nobody buys them
Fama
Well-known member
These two bad boys, I built the right one (Gravitation Reverb) yesterday, and thankfully it worked first try, except for the nut on the DC jack being the wrong size. This has happened to me before too, either I somehow magically mix up which nut was for the DC jack, or I've twice now had the wrong size nut (it's too large).
The left one is the modded Space is Fun I mentioned before, I finally got around to switching the TL084 for a TL074. Someone mentioned (or maybe it was in the veroboard layout discussion) that the 074 might have less bass (which the Space is Fun has too much of easily), and it is true. The difference is subtle, but it is there, and considering how overbearing the bass was with the TL084 even a small improvement is good.
What surprised me was that the pedal is now much more useable with the gain and the bright side of the tone switch. The TL084 went into a very nasty and shrill sounding distortion on the brighter side if gain was turned up at all (the darker side was fine), but with the TL074 you can turn it up a bit for some nicer clipping, and even if it's pushing into hard clipping, that somehow sounds nicer too. So definitely a good upgrade.
Which is a bit surprising since it's supposed to be the same part, just binned for performance? Maybe there is a bum transistor inside the TL084 that causes this, not broken but just much worse under clipping than the TL074 equivalent? Or maybe I misremember and there is some difference in the architecture between them?
Bricksnbeatles
Member known well
Playing the part of an art collector today. I have a bunch of concert posters that have been rolled up in tubes for extreme lengths of time, so I untubed most of them and have been letting them relax for a few weeks. Now I’ve taken a few of them, and have them sandwiched between two foamcore boards with archival interleaving paper in between each poster and some light weight to help reinforce the flattening process. At the moment it’s on my floor for a few hours while I run out, and then I’ll take the weight off and transfer them to a filing cabinet with a more evenly weighted surface on top (20x26” sheet of 1/2” plywood maybe) to let them flatten out more over the course of a few weeks before they can be put into my new poster portfolio. Only 4 posters in here, and around 30 more to go, but that’s the way it goes.
For anyone interested in what posters are in here, I have:
-the who 2019 tour poster
-ween 2022 Capitol Theater run unofficial/fanart poster by Bridgette Roka
-ween Halloween night 2022 foil variant by Jermaine Rogers
- And if I remember correctly which I did last, Peter Frampton @ Bethel Woods poster by Dan Stiles
For anyone interested in what posters are in here, I have:
-the who 2019 tour poster
-ween 2022 Capitol Theater run unofficial/fanart poster by Bridgette Roka
-ween Halloween night 2022 foil variant by Jermaine Rogers
- And if I remember correctly which I did last, Peter Frampton @ Bethel Woods poster by Dan Stiles
steviejr92
Authorized Vendor
New design. I will be making L brackets and rivet them at certain points so i can mount walls.
I designed it around a 1590DD sized enclosure...
I designed it around a 1590DD sized enclosure...
steviejr92
Authorized Vendor
Im trying to design it in such a way that the walls will hold the enclosure together. Hopefully a few strategic rivets and L brackets should do the trick!Tricky but seems to be doable with proper bending sequence
Ive had the bending sequence in thought the whole time, I think this shouldnt be too bad
steviejr92
Authorized Vendor
Ok Im going to leave you guys alone after this I promise...
But here she is now just imagine the walls will be holding the enclosure together, again with L brackets. I want to use allen wrench bolts for a raw look since they will be exposed on the sides.....
But here she is now just imagine the walls will be holding the enclosure together, again with L brackets. I want to use allen wrench bolts for a raw look since they will be exposed on the sides.....
Erik S
Well-known member
That’s a neat concept! Some extra work with the brackets and riv-nuts, but you eliminate most of the possible sources of bend error by keeping all your bends lines parallel. I bet you’ll be able to get the gaps pretty dead flush. And by cutting it in 4 pieces you should be able to lay it out in a pretty material-efficient way. You got something big in the works circuit-wise?
steviejr92
Authorized Vendor
Thank you man! My biggest worry with the last design was structural rigidity. I started looking at how some other builders that make enclosures make theirs. I started to notice that some kind of flap was incorporated but i realized a lot of that can only be achieved with a box break. So I figured this would be the next best solution. It kind of defeated those limitations I was having with my break. Plus I think on the artistic side of things those raw rivets sitting on top of the powder coated top and bottom will look great!
As for the circuit, Ive been sitting on the normal sized Equilux that @Robert has here at the store! Ive had it for a year so i think its time to get on it!
Mentaltossflycoon
Well-known member
A worthy circuit for an extra fancy box.
steviejr92
Authorized Vendor
I was planning on mounting the jacks to the angled portion right before the back wall. The reason here is so the jacks would be (somewhat) parallel to the circuit. In my last design the jack are not which doesnt allow for the some of the larger 125B projects to fit in there. It was something i saw as a design flaw and so i wanted to correct it for this new design. At least I feel this way the jacks dont look they're going to intercept the circuit! its going to be a 4 piece design.....
I hear what you're saying about the demanding part...if you were to keep the profile the same what would you change to make it easier? For me personally i think the walls are going to be the most difficult to get correct.
steviejr92
Authorized Vendor
Ahhh I know so! Ive been wanting that circuit ever since I found out about it! Its going to be in the personal collection for sure!