Green Sreamer
- Thread starter JimL
- Start date
It should burst.
CheapSuitG
The TubeSchemer
The Tubescreamer is bit different than the Timmy. TS has a mid eq hump where the Timmy is a "transparent" overdrive.
Also, socket things like the diodes, try some LED, LED and 4148, bat41 or even just 1 diode.
Also, socket things like the diodes, try some LED, LED and 4148, bat41 or even just 1 diode.
Old article, but still a fun read. Mod 4 (transparent tone control) looks cool.
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Thanks. I think that I have no understanding of why I would want a glowing led inside my case. The socket idea is a good one. I have to look into what a bat41 is. I know very little.
CheapSuitG
The TubeSchemer
LED stands for Light Emitting Diode. It works like a clipping diode similar to a 1N4148 but with a higher forward voltage, which changes how the signal clips. Lots of pedals use LEDs for clipping RAT circuits, the JHS Morning Glory and one of my favorites the Keeley Electronics Seeing Eye mod for the Boss DS-1. In that mod, the LED is actually mounted on the outside of the pedal, inside the “O” of Tone on the enclosure. When you play, it lights up in real time you can literally see the signal clipping.
Thanks for the reply. I still screw up quite a bit, unforced errors. Troubleshooting is not my strong suit yet. I’m gonna get myself some of those BAT41 diodes maybe you could tell me where I could find a socket?
Lots of nice articles on this site.
www.coda-effects.com
For more lows, you could increase C4. (Also described in the Wampler article MOD 3).
Reading the electro-smash tube screamer article several times can go a long way.
Coda Effects: The different types of diodes
Learn more about electric guitar related electronics: DIY guitar pedals, from fuzz faces to delays and reverb, cables and circuits theory
www.coda-effects.com
For more lows, you could increase C4. (Also described in the Wampler article MOD 3).
Reading the electro-smash tube screamer article several times can go a long way.
More low end is straightforward. If you use the PPCB schematic, make C4 bigger. R8 and C4 make a high-pass filter which is what gives the TS that mid-hump. Making C4 bigger will move that mid hump down in frequency. Try 100nF and go from there.
I would consider using more clipping diodes to make the sound less compressed. It's surprising how using two pairs of 1N4148s instead of just a pair opens up the feel. So where D1 and D2 are use a pair, like this:
I would consider using more clipping diodes to make the sound less compressed. It's surprising how using two pairs of 1N4148s instead of just a pair opens up the feel. So where D1 and D2 are use a pair, like this:
Fama
Well-known member
Yes, D1 and D2 have the negative on the same side on the PCB. Electrically they're going the opposite directions though, and you can even see the trace go from one's anode to the other's cathode in the picture on the site https://www.pedalpcb.com/product/lgsm/.
Nevertheless, just orient the diodes the same way they are on the board, but instead of using just one, use two in series (if you want to double them up).
I once built a Tubescreamer with the 4 diodes as I showed above and added a simple bass pot section where R8 and C4 are. I was amazed at how much better it sounded (to me) than a standard Tubescreamer.
Then you discover that you can build a TS without the buffers. Then you fiddle about a bit more and you realise you have fallen into the overdrive abyss and no one ever sees you again.
Then you discover that you can build a TS without the buffers. Then you fiddle about a bit more and you realise you have fallen into the overdrive abyss and no one ever sees you again.
bluedmc777
Well-known member
Like this lol? I bought this for $30 off reverb. Basically just paid for the sides lol.
