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Hey folks, So if any of you recognize me and my posts from the last couple years, you my know that "my deal" has usually been figuring out ways to house pedalpcb stuff into rack-mountable enclosures. Any pedal I love goes into my rack alongside its' peers in a big rack enclosure, and is...

I got this right the first time by pure guesswork and deduction just cuz the lines silkscreened on the PCB seemed to show a “fat” side and a “thin” side to the plastic sammich around the metal plate.

So, you DON’T have to let it linger.

Rad thank you!!!

Hey @vigilante398 question: does “the danger go away” with poking around high voltage tube circuits the moment one unplugs the power supply? Or are dangerous voltages still sometimes retained for a period of time within capacitors or anything like that?

THANKS GUYS YOU’RE AWESOME!! I think I understand perfectly but if I get cornfused once I have it in front of me I’ll circle back. Build pics soon. Edit: that worked.

Hey folks! So I took it upon myself to build and wire up a THREE CIRCUIT stomp box—Dwarven Hammer boost, End All Red overdrive, Muzzle gate—into a really large Hammond enclosure. I wanted it to be a single-switch pedal, so that all three circuits were "always-on", or completely off at the...

Hey gang I know this thread is a little older but since we’re talking about that little range switch, I wanted to jump in and ask another easy question about it: Does it MATTER how the switch is “rotated” for it to function properly? Meaning, if I look at that component (I got the proper...

…in other words I need to align the positive/negative leads in the correct direction for the voltage flow of the circuit, right? I can’t just drop it in place of a non-polarized cap willy-nilly?

Probably a silly newb question, but I ask because of film caps having no polarity versus the tantalum or electrilytics having a positive and negative lead. Is it doable?

Hey so I am hoping to start building the 6-band EQ (potentiometer version) very soon, but would like to change the frequency center on each pot to something different than the stock kit. I just KNOW that I’ve seen a thread about how to do it on this forum, but for the life of me I can’t find it...

I tried this out with a Tyrian build that I just finished, and I have to say I rather liked the very gradual fine control over eq, and was pleasantly surprised by how clean and flush they looked after I splayed out the tiny wire leads to feed thru the 5mm pitch pads!

This part would still be really cool, but just so you guys can see it, it IS possible to use those tiny Bourns pots on 5mm pitched pads, and keep them surprisingly flush to the board. So long as you gently splay out their tiny wire leads with your needlenose pliers and feed ‘em through. I mean I...

Okay so IT WORKS I FIXED IT! As-semi-predicted it had to do with some of the “innovations” I was perpetrating in order to make these easier to eventually load into my rackmount enclosure. I was attempting to use a few tiny cables that terminated in mini JST connectors (see attached pics) so...

Yeah like I said let me get some of the weird shit out of the way so you guys can see my build clearly and then I’ll post some photos.

Hey Folks, So I attempted a build of the Tyrian (probably way too) early on in my indoctrination into this hobby...as many of you may know it has a pretty high component count. I could not get any sounds to come out of it at all and I set it aside for a while. Eventually I realized how shitty...

Thank you guys!

Hey this might be a dumb one but: do the DPDT Toggle (On/Off/On) switches used in the Tyrian come in “Types”…much like the on/on/on switches that I recently used when building the Disarray? That is to say, the Disarray DPDT was a “type 2”, and if one used a “Type 1” instead, it would not...

You designed and printed those yourself? If so, very cool.

Whattaguy! They’re just about all gonna be from this series for my personal builds… https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/652-3339P-1-104LF