Search results

great thread. I've been wanting to do my own layout for a while but never seem to find the time, but I'm learning a lot just from following this. @Stickman393 your latest layout looks so much slicker than the first one

Chase tone sells a good pedal at a reasonable price, but the copy on the web page does seem very snake-oilish. But, it does look like they have used carbon film before too, so it could just be that they've switched it up and didn't change the page.

Very cool, hope you get it to work.

isn't a big deal? I think it you put it backwards it would mess with my mind

I was thinking of doing something similar, but with using a switched jacks to control the bypass. i.e. route the signal from the unicab to phone amp through a switched line-out jack. when a line out is plugged in, the tip switch disconnects the headphone amp and the signal is straight from the...

What's with the missing 100R resistor?

I don't think you read my original post then :). I have the original chase tone too. On the original, if you start at off (7 o'clock), you get a gradual increase as you turn it up, reaching unity around 9-10 o'clock. On the one I built, it's off at 7 o'clock, and then above unity at 7:15...

It had problems getting measurements with most transistors I tried in it, even ones I knew were good because I pulled them from working circuits. For resistors and caps I use my multimeter--I bought it only for the transistor measurements.

That makes me sad. I may have got a bad one, but when I tried a TC-1 it was absolute junk.

I've done it twice with these boards. He really should mark it with a more explicit "do not put this side up" marking. Or I should just be more cautious. Although I've never had this issue with other vendors.

Because I soldered the pcb board upside-down on the switch. 🤦‍♂️

No, I ended up scrapping the pedal. I'm going to use the enclosure for a vero build.

I'm like you in that I never get along with fuzzes although I like the idea of them. Fuzz Aldrin is the one I've like best. It's a fuzz but can do overdrive that beats most overdrives if you turn the gain down.

The Luxury 763 and Indiana Deluxe are both meant to be blackface IAB pedals.

picture?

https://forum.pedalpcb.com/threads/all-tayda-pre-drilled-powder-coated-enclosures-out-of-stock.23517/

I wonder if the solder they used is lead-free--that could mean it needs some higher temp to melt.

I haven't had that issue--usually the solder blob will melt pretty quickly. What iron are you using?

I've always been committed to boxing it when I buy the PCB, but now that I have a lot of builds, fewer ones inspire me. Maybe I should consider the boxing it only if I really want it.

If you use sockets or build on a breadboard you can just swap 'em and see which sounds best to you. For example, I found I liked the tonebender mk3 when I put the lowest gain in Q2, which is not the usual recipe. Also, I measured the gain and hfe of mine using this technique...