Search results

At least you'll learn how to unsolder early on, it's a good skill to have. I'm sure many of us have made this mistake (and not even close to a first build--it happens).

I just used the adhesive and stuck them to my protoboard--screws not needed

I think you get it, but the way you worded this sounds like you're "double swapping" If you wire the circuit as shown, you can see the positive side of the polarized components are already going to ground... so don't need swap them, as swapping the V+ and ground is sufficient.

This might help get you started:

I made my own Vero layout. it's a pretty simple circuit to do

Well you gotta replace the fakes

Me too To the OP, sounds like an issue with your iron--I can do lead solder at 600F. I use the tips that are like narrow screwdriver (aka chisel tip), and I have a pretty old dull-looking tip. When you tin your tip, is it easy to melt to solder to it?

Like, no sound? or no fuzz?

Cool, let's see the populated interior!

I used NE5532.

Is all that extra stuff for the power conversion?

it doesn't sound right--mine sounded like a tubescreamer. Are you using the recommended pot values?

I saw in the news USPS is so underfunded it is cutting pensions now--expect shipments and service to get worse now as workers get fed up even more leave. My mom is still waiting for her IRS tax return from 2024. I guess this is what happens when your government chooses to not fund the government.

From Aion docs, pick an hFE between 65 to 100, and leakage < 300μA. This circuit is pretty forgiving though, I tried some in that range, but ended up using an hFE of 130 because it sounded just as good. I used a 10K bias trimpot. Although I haven't tried a Beano I suspect one you build should...

the only other thing I can think of is some germanium diodes have the indicator backward from silicon diodes

double check the pinouts of the mosfets--that's bitten me a few times.

In my tayda drill templates, I used 5.9mm when I have an 3mm LED bezel. When drilling by hand, I use a 15/64 bit.

If I'm reading that Tillman schematic correctly, normally you'd set the R3 value so your drain voltage is 1/2 your power supply.

Is there some connection to Wampler here I'm not seeing? I don't know about this aspect of the course "You want an established framework to use AI to successfully build anything you can dream up" If I want to learn something, I don't want AI doing it for me. Other than that it does look...

Directly from the article: The upshot is that while this preamp circuit is designed to work with typical J201 FETs, it will not work with all of them and it would be a good idea to try a handful of FETs and throw out any that don't bias correctly. An easy test is to measure the voltage at the...