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I kinda wish I threw a simple tremolo into it. since I made my own layout I could've easily included a vico vibe or similar circuit.

I built a cigar box amp based on the Runoffgroove Ruby circuit, and the other one was built by our neighbor. How these came to be: My neighbor's daughter took a class on guitar building at Purdue last year, so has an electric guitar but no amp. My neighbor knows I build pedals and kept...

I also use white washers with them. I've found that the jacks I have are too wide to use a stock washer, and have to ream the washer a bit to make a fit, which is kind of pain.

The stewmac schematics can be found here though.

What pcb is this?

Yes Post a troubleshooting thread, and folks here can help sort 'em out.

I think the tweed one is the Tomahawk. IIRC The Southland is pretty close to the Lightspeed but with hard clipping added. I don't like it as much as the Lightspeed though.

I usually bend both leads to secure the part (like in @Erik S's picture). But after 1 side is soldered I straighten the other lead before soldering--that way at least one is easy to remove.

Another to check out is the Acid Rain. It's the Raincoat with a different tonestack.

+1 to breadboard a few simple circuits. Start with a 1 transistor one like the speaker cranker, then some simple IC ones like the mxr distortion+ and lightspeed.

The way this is wired the wiper is giving a path to ground--any resistance between 2-3 will be in the circuit.

you can jumper it and the pedal will still work. The diode is only there to project against plugging in the wrong power supply,

2n3906 is a replacement for it, but you need to swap the orientation because the pinout is reversed.

I've been wanting to build this--do you use a cabinet sim with it?

Built this one based on all the positive reviews it gets here (despite the fact that I rarely use or even need a compressor for my home doodling). I realized when testing it that I had no idea how to work this pedal, but found Thorpy's manual so now I'm squared away. I didn't see the LEDs...

From the placement of that capacitor, it looks like it's purpose is to block DC from going to the next gain stage. A 12nf will work fine there.

At least you'll learn how to unsolder early on, it's a good skill to have. I'm sure many of us have made this mistake (and not even close to a first build--it happens).

I just used the adhesive and stuck them to my protoboard--screws not needed

I think you get it, but the way you worded this sounds like you're "double swapping" If you wire the circuit as shown, you can see the positive side of the polarized components are already going to ground... so don't need swap them, as swapping the V+ and ground is sufficient.

This might help get you started: