6-band EQ

I know it can feel like a daunting task, but there's not really any way around just trial and error. The only easier way would be to order a kit - although Coda Effects and I think Aion have some resources on parts sourcing?
I don't think anyone will give you a ready made list since it's not that hard, and you will have to learn it eventually.
For the 6 band EQ, it's actually very easy. Just one electrolytic capacitor - pick at least 25V, 35V is a bit better since it also works with 18V pedals (in case you order more in the future for other pedals). With electrolytic capacitors you have to pay a little bit of attention to the size - mainly in that larger ones can get big if you get a 100V version or whatever. But stick with 35V, or 25V if they seem to get really big - Tayda lists the sizes in the names usually.

For film capacitors it's quite easy, for example the 100n capacitor, you just search for "100nf" on Tayda (the capacitor values are measured in farads, so the 100 nano farads) and you will find a bunch of them. I just pick the cheapest Polyester Film Box Type Capacitor. Only thing to keep in mind is that you don't want SMD film capacitors. They are very tiny, and don't have legs that could go in the holes. Here's an example of the 100nF one, just pick similar looking ones for the other film capacitors https://www.taydaelectronics.com/0-1uf-100v-5-kemet-polyester-film-box-type-capacitor.html

You can also check the sizes to make sure they fit, but I've never had issues with those. The bigger ones are 5mm wide (or often can be 2.5mm wide too, that's fine if they're smaller) and smaller ones are 2.5mm. For 1u you might find both film and electrolytic, so check which ones you want (film in this case). They're not interchangeable since electrolytics only let current through in one direction (for DC), although there are also bipolar electrolytics - they are rare though, just avoid them for now.

Remember to get sockets for the op amps (well, you can also solder them in directly, but there's a chance you could burn them if you keep the iron on for too long), I like these https://www.taydaelectronics.com/8-pin-dip-ic-socket-adaptor-solder-type.html

Also remember the input/output and DC jacks (there are different sizes for DC jacks), LED, possibly LED holder or lampshade clip (these also have different size holes for them, and LED's came in 3mm and 5mm usually), plus the 3PDT switch for the footswitch. And some wire, I use solid wire, stranded is more malleable but it can be annoying to get through the holes on the PCB.

You can get all the resistors easily from this page https://www.taydaelectronics.com/resistors/1-4w-metal-film-resistors/test-group-2.html
Thank you! This is a very detailed response. I'm super grateful! You're right, I totally need to figure this out all by myself. I'm learning a ton :)

Same questions that I posted on another response: 1) Can I use either ceramic OR box capacitors, if they're rated properly (the packshot of the assembled PCB uses both); and 2) Can I use a 100v electrolytic, if it fits (presumably that just means that it can handle the 9/18v with ease); and 3) Does the 5mm refer to the size of the cap itself, or is it the lead/pin spacing?

GREAT point about the sockets. I've picked up that tip from lurking around the r/diypedals subreddit :)

I also noticed that the parts list of this build doesn't include jacks, LED, footswitch etc.! I put a Tayda cart together of just the parts list...and then had a "Woah, wait...." moment, luckily!
 
Thank you @Robert!
SBP said they were looking at getting some in, and I missed that they were indeed "in".

Thank you @StompBoxParts!
I noticed that Tayda was out of the sliders, and it doesn't look like they're coming back...

I'm located in Canada, so I picked these sliders up from a local supplier: https://canada.newark.com/alps-alpi...136?CMP=e-email-sys-orderconfirmed-NA-Product

They don't have a center-stop...but I'll likely set-it-and-forget-it with this EQ pedal :)
 
Same questions that I posted on another response: 1) Can I use either ceramic OR box capacitors, if they're rated properly (the packshot of the assembled PCB uses both); and 2) Can I use a 100v electrolytic, if it fits (presumably that just means that it can handle the 9/18v with ease); and 3) Does the 5mm refer to the size of the cap itself, or is it the lead/pin spacing?
1.) I think so yes, I usually use ceramic for the pF values and film box for nF (and then usually electrolytics are in the uF range so it's easy to wrap your head around them). Ceramics and film box are mostly interchangeable from what I understand - there might be some small differences, maybe in the noise? But I don't know what exactly.

2.) Yes, that just means it's rated up to 100V, so less will also work. But keep in mind that for larger values the size will get bigger once the voltage increases. So for smaller values you can go for 100V, for bigger ones you will probably have trouble with them fitting.

3.) For the electrolytic I believe 5mm is the diameter. For film caps 7.2mm is the length and 2.5mm or 5mm is the width. The pin spacing will usually be correct like that, plus even if you mess that up, you can just bend the pins to make them fit. But I don't really ever pay heed to pin spacing, it all just works out. I guess there are probably some weird parts too that might be funky, but with the same grey/cream/red film box caps the spacing is always the same. Ceramics are usually a bit smaller, but again, not an issue.

And yeah, the 6.2mm electrolytic someone linked is bigger than what the BOM specifies, but you can see on the PCB that there's plenty of extra room. At least PedalPCB layouts are always laid out so well that I haven't had any issues with electrolytics fitting. But even if you messed that part up, you could probably just leave the pins a bit longer and bend it over some other parts or something like that.

It might be more important if you're building in a 1590A or 1590B or something small, but I just stick with 125B where there's usually a bunch of room.
 
I noticed that Tayda was out of the sliders, and it doesn't look like they're coming back...

I'm located in Canada, so I picked these sliders up from a local supplier: https://canada.newark.com/alps-alpi...136?CMP=e-email-sys-orderconfirmed-NA-Product

They don't have a center-stop...but I'll likely set-it-and-forget-it with this EQ pedal :)
Cheers!

I'm not a fan of centre-stop pots, full stop. Don't care whether rotary or slider or other — you almost get to the sweet spot where you want it, and then suddenly the centre-stop grabs it and pulls it just beyond where you were about to set it...

Oh, and I'm in Canada, too.

So thanks for that!
 
Cheers!

I'm not a fan of centre-stop pots, full stop. Don't care whether rotary or slider or other — you almost get to the sweet spot where you want it, and then suddenly the centre-stop grabs it and pulls it just beyond where you were about to set it...

Oh, and I'm in Canada, too.

So thanks for that!

Center Detent
 
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