BuddytheReow
Breadboard Baker
Would it be possible to add a level control as well like on a Boss EQ for future builds?
6-band EQ
- Thread starter Robert
- Start date
Those toggle switch caps look like a good solution. Impressive to see 8 different colors as well. And thanks for posting the build docs. I'm going to try to use my drill and dremel to see how the enclosure comes out. Glad I have the faceplate to go with it. : ^ )[
[/QUOTE]
Does anyone know where these are available from?
Bricksnbeatles
Member known well
+1 on that. mouser seems to be out of stock too, and I can't find any other brands with the same pin spacing
Robert
Reverse Engineer
You can use these Bourns but you have to install them on the wrong side of the board then cross the two wires at the bottom that connect the fader module to the main board.
Bricksnbeatles
Member known well
Since it’s safe to assume that Tayda is never getting those B50k slider pots back in stock, is anyone with the relevant smarts (*cough* @Chuck D. Bones *cough*) able to take a stab at what differences, aside from taper of course, W20K pots would have in the circuit from a technical standpoint?
If I’m being honest, I still don’t really understand what difference the pot values make when acting as a voltage divider in this particular sort of application.
If I’m being honest, I still don’t really understand what difference the pot values make when acting as a voltage divider in this particular sort of application.
Another Option:
I’d have to learn more to answer about how the different values effect the sound in this spot of the circuit. But, I can tell you that the 1776 Effects (currently not taking orders) has a six shooter project which is the identical circuit as Pedalpcb, except it uses all w20k pots
Big Monk
Well-known member
The output level control could be a simple retrofit with a standalone pot.
Looks like the output voltage divider is a simple 50/50 split:
Signal Level (%) = R9/(R8+R9)
Signal Level (%) = 10k/20k = 50%
Simply forego R8. You can use a R9 limiting resistor from Lug 3 of a 100kA pot to the ground pad for R9 to set the maximum output signal %.
Here is the Alpha "A" Curves. I assumed an 80/20 taper:
We can now use the value of the limiting resistor and the taper curve to show our performance across the dial. For instance:
I've been searching for a way to get the XTS modified frequency bands without breaking the bank and I think I'll add this to my 2022 list.
Looks like the output voltage divider is a simple 50/50 split:
Signal Level (%) = R9/(R8+R9)
Signal Level (%) = 10k/20k = 50%
Simply forego R8. You can use a R9 limiting resistor from Lug 3 of a 100kA pot to the ground pad for R9 to set the maximum output signal %.
Here is the Alpha "A" Curves. I assumed an 80/20 taper:
We can now use the value of the limiting resistor and the taper curve to show our performance across the dial. For instance:
I've been searching for a way to get the XTS modified frequency bands without breaking the bank and I think I'll add this to my 2022 list.
Bricksnbeatles
Member known well
Just did a dry fit of the slider assembly with the W20K pots that were suggested (the screws are backed off equivalent to the thickness of the enclosure itself, the red line indicates where the faceplate will sit relative to the slider shafts) and the shafts seem much longer than what I’ve seen in others’ builds. I’ll see about getting slightly longer standoffs and seeing if I can still fit the assembly without getting in the way of the jacks. Could anyone take a pic of the side profile of their completed EQ so I can see how much the sliders stick out? Just a little concerned since it seems like they’d be easy to hit into with how high they stick up, and since they’re thin plastic shafts, it seems like they’d be at risk of snapping off with just a single light bump the wrong way.
Vipersassasin
Member
I am a bass player and was wondering if there is an EQ chart specific to this design for obtaining lower Frequencies than the pedal is built for?
Slider 1 looks to be the only frequency that doesn't utilize an IC so my thought is that specific hz is determined by ONLY a resistor and capacitor while the others are determined by the caps and the voltage resistor. It looks like the 470R resistor stays the same across all frequencies.
I would rather wait for a SansAmp PCB to come out but building my own EQ has always been on my project scope so this one excites me a little.
Slider 1 looks to be the only frequency that doesn't utilize an IC so my thought is that specific hz is determined by ONLY a resistor and capacitor while the others are determined by the caps and the voltage resistor. It looks like the 470R resistor stays the same across all frequencies.
I would rather wait for a SansAmp PCB to come out but building my own EQ has always been on my project scope so this one excites me a little.
Hello everyone. I'm new here, so hopefully it's okay for me to tack-on to this thread with this.
I'm a noob builder and I want to try building this: https://docs.pedalpcb.com/project/6BandEQ.pdf. Trouble is, the parts list is somewhat mystifying to a noob -- most notably (to me), the capacitor section. In my opinion, the parts list is geared more towards a more-experienced builder. Sourcing the parts on my own has been somewhat of a challenge. I just don't want to order all these parts, and make a huge noob blunder...
Is there anyone out there that can help break down this entire parts list with more info? Namely, the key info that would help a noob source these parts -- i.e. the product specifications that one would normally find on, say, a Tayda product page. Example below.
Saving that, help list the Tayda part # for all of these line items?
I'm a noob builder and I want to try building this: https://docs.pedalpcb.com/project/6BandEQ.pdf. Trouble is, the parts list is somewhat mystifying to a noob -- most notably (to me), the capacitor section. In my opinion, the parts list is geared more towards a more-experienced builder. Sourcing the parts on my own has been somewhat of a challenge. I just don't want to order all these parts, and make a huge noob blunder...
Is there anyone out there that can help break down this entire parts list with more info? Namely, the key info that would help a noob source these parts -- i.e. the product specifications that one would normally find on, say, a Tayda product page. Example below.
Saving that, help list the Tayda part # for all of these line items?
drgonzo1969
Well-known member
i struggled at first with caps too. its easy though. when searching tayda you need to search 100nf for the C1. . and so on... c2 search for 10nf. As far as brand of caps go, I usually go with kemet or faratronic, they are cheap but i havent had any fail yet. here is an example of the 100nf film cap for c1. same goes for searching for electrolytics, just add the "f" to the value listed in the build doc. for this build you only need one electrolytic cap. the value is 100uf. the main thing to look for on electrolytics is the voltage. it needs to be a little higher than the 9v the pedal operates at. i usually go with 16v or 25v for higher voltage pedals. hope this helps
100nF 0.1uF 100V 5% Polyester Film Box Type Capacitor
FARATRONIC - Get It Fast - Same Day Shipping
www.taydaelectronics.com
100uF 35V 105C JRB Radial Electrolytic Capacitor 6.3x11mm
JB Capacitors - Get It Fast - Same Day Shipping
www.taydaelectronics.com
Fama
Well-known member
I know it can feel like a daunting task, but there's not really any way around just trial and error. The only easier way would be to order a kit - although Coda Effects and I think Aion have some resources on parts sourcing?
I don't think anyone will give you a ready made list since it's not that hard, and you will have to learn it eventually.
For the 6 band EQ, it's actually very easy. Just one electrolytic capacitor - pick at least 25V, 35V is a bit better since it also works with 18V pedals (in case you order more in the future for other pedals). With electrolytic capacitors you have to pay a little bit of attention to the size - mainly in that larger ones can get big if you get a 100V version or whatever. But stick with 35V, or 25V if they seem to get really big - Tayda lists the sizes in the names usually.
For film capacitors it's quite easy, for example the 100n capacitor, you just search for "100nf" on Tayda (the capacitor values are measured in farads, so the 100 nano farads) and you will find a bunch of them. I just pick the cheapest Polyester Film Box Type Capacitor. Only thing to keep in mind is that you don't want SMD film capacitors. They are very tiny, and don't have legs that could go in the holes. Here's an example of the 100nF one, just pick similar looking ones for the other film capacitors https://www.taydaelectronics.com/0-1uf-100v-5-kemet-polyester-film-box-type-capacitor.html
You can also check the sizes to make sure they fit, but I've never had issues with those. The bigger ones are 5mm wide (or often can be 2.5mm wide too, that's fine if they're smaller) and smaller ones are 2.5mm. For 1u you might find both film and electrolytic, so check which ones you want (film in this case). They're not interchangeable since electrolytics only let current through in one direction (for DC), although there are also bipolar electrolytics - they are rare though, just avoid them for now.
Remember to get sockets for the op amps (well, you can also solder them in directly, but there's a chance you could burn them if you keep the iron on for too long), I like these https://www.taydaelectronics.com/8-pin-dip-ic-socket-adaptor-solder-type.html
Also remember the input/output and DC jacks (there are different sizes for DC jacks), LED, possibly LED holder or lampshade clip (these also have different size holes for them, and LED's came in 3mm and 5mm usually), plus the 3PDT switch for the footswitch. And some wire, I use solid wire, stranded is more malleable but it can be annoying to get through the holes on the PCB.
You can get all the resistors easily from this page https://www.taydaelectronics.com/resistors/1-4w-metal-film-resistors/test-group-2.html
So maybe you were just unconsciously prepping for amp building then.Don’t worry about making mistakes. I have some gigantic caps I could show you.
Feral Feline
Well-known member
My amp sifu convinced me to keep all the mal-orders, not to bin or give away the oversized-caps wrong-jacks etc, that whatever I had ordered would eventually come in handy. He's been right for most of it, just a few odds and ends I have that I'm still sitting on, waiting for them to become useful.
Those giant caps I ordered? Well I never intended to build an amp, but I did.
Also, order some machined sockets for your ICs, you'll thank me later. (sorry @Fama)
Flyleaf sockets
are not robust enough for me.
So actually, order a few of each (flyleaf and machined) and see which YOU prefer.
Also, I've stopped ordering 16v caps where possible. Mostly getting 25v or 50v so that if I want/am able to run a pedal at 18v I can (the footprint has been the same for many 25v and 50v caps).
(Axewerx, you should try to have the caps rated about double the amount of juice you intend to send through the pedal).
The Wire I prefer is stranded AWG 24 or 26 pre-bond — it holds its shape almost as well as solid-core without the solid-core's risk of breakage.
Again, don't worry about getting the wrong stuff, it all comes in useful at some point for whatever build — an isolated jack, a skinnier wire (good for 1590A builds), a positive-centre jack, etc...
There's no one-stop shop, sourcing stuff takes time and effort — no way around that!
NOW, where the hell can I get those danged slider pots for the 6-Band EQ!?! ANYONE!??!
Those giant caps I ordered? Well I never intended to build an amp, but I did.
Also, order some machined sockets for your ICs, you'll thank me later. (sorry @Fama)
Flyleaf sockets
are not robust enough for me.So actually, order a few of each (flyleaf and machined) and see which YOU prefer.
Also, I've stopped ordering 16v caps where possible. Mostly getting 25v or 50v so that if I want/am able to run a pedal at 18v I can (the footprint has been the same for many 25v and 50v caps).
(Axewerx, you should try to have the caps rated about double the amount of juice you intend to send through the pedal).
The Wire I prefer is stranded AWG 24 or 26 pre-bond — it holds its shape almost as well as solid-core without the solid-core's risk of breakage.
Again, don't worry about getting the wrong stuff, it all comes in useful at some point for whatever build — an isolated jack, a skinnier wire (good for 1590A builds), a positive-centre jack, etc...
There's no one-stop shop, sourcing stuff takes time and effort — no way around that!
NOW, where the hell can I get those danged slider pots for the 6-Band EQ!?! ANYONE!??!
Last edited:
Robert
Reverse Engineer
30mm Slide Potentiometer
Top Quality Parts for Guitar Effects Pedals and DIY Music Devices. Knobs, Pots, Switches, Kits, LEDs, Enclosures, Jacks, Wire, Resistors, Capacitors, Semiconductors
stompboxparts.com
Feral Feline
Well-known member
Thank you @Robert!
SBP said they were looking at getting some in, and I missed that they were indeed "in".
Thank you @StompBoxParts!
SBP said they were looking at getting some in, and I missed that they were indeed "in".
Thank you @StompBoxParts!
Thank you! A lot of the initial tips you listed I had pieced together, and amassed a Tayda shopping cart therefrom; but, I have a couple follow-ups...if you will? (and thank you kindly!)i struggled at first with caps too. its easy though. when searching tayda you need to search 100nf for the C1. . and so on... c2 search for 10nf. As far as brand of caps go, I usually go with kemet or faratronic, they are cheap but i havent had any fail yet. here is an example of the 100nf film cap for c1. same goes for searching for electrolytics, just add the "f" to the value listed in the build doc. for this build you only need one electrolytic cap. the value is 100uf. the main thing to look for on electrolytics is the voltage. it needs to be a little higher than the 9v the pedal operates at. i usually go with 16v or 25v for higher voltage pedals. hope this helps
100nF 0.1uF 100V 5% Polyester Film Box Type Capacitor
FARATRONIC - Get It Fast - Same Day Shipping100uF 35V 105C JRB Radial Electrolytic Capacitor 6.3x11mm
JB Capacitors - Get It Fast - Same Day Shipping
- Does it matter how high the voltage goes on the electrolytics? Ex. I find a 100v that fits. Presumably it's just rated high enough, and can handle the 9v or 18v just fine? And the only concern is using a cap that can't handle the power being fed into it?
- The packshot of the assembled PCB here: https://www.pedalpcb.com/product/6-band-eq/ shows both box and ceramic caps being used. That's really messing me up! Presumably you can use either ceramic OR box in this build, just as long as it's all rated properly?
- The 100uf radial electrolytic cap you linked to doesn't seem to match the "5mm" part listed in the build doc. The main question: Does the "5mm" here refer to an aspect of size w/r/t the cap itself, or does it refer to the lead/pin spacing?
