ADHD Wiring

Wiring is straightforward. The Input / Output / DC jacks all connect directly to the pads at the top of the board.

If you're building true-bypass the six pads at the bottom center of the board are a direct connection to the standard 3PDT breakout board.

If you're building with the Improved Bypass module you'll directly connect all eight pads at the bottom to the Improved Bypass module.


I'll have a schematic posted shortly for cross referencing the various components / versions.

Schematic is here:
So, I don't have that other daughter board, so I would just use the 4 pads (IN/GND/SW/OUT)?? The v.2 has 7 pads to hook up to the 3DPT.

So, you're saying use all 6 pads at the bottom for True Bypass and just ignore the EB?? If so, I'm not sure of the wiring for 6 pads! Can you please clarify??

Also, if not using the daughter board and using True Bypass, what is gained or lost? Do I still have versatility of the different OCD versions or is that part of the daughter board hook up??

Thanks for your support.
 
The daughter board is for switchable buffered bypass (v2.x), without it the PCB operates as a standard true-bypass effect (v1.x).

The six pads at the bottom are the standard Input Jack / IN / GND / SW / OUT / Output Jack configuration.
 
Ok, thanks. I'll wire it up for True Bypass and see how it sounds.
OCD pedals have been around for a while. I haven't used one, so anxious to see how it sounds and stack up against other ODs.
Usually, your boards only have 4 pads and the IN and OUT come off of the jacks themselves. That's why throwing me for a look and v.2 had 7 pads!!?!? :O
 
The previous version included the buffers (and true-bypass/buffered switch) in the main PCB so it involved a more complicated breakout board...

The goal with the redesign was to make it easier to build any version of the OCD circuit, and since all of the v1.x versions were true-bypass it seemed to make more sense to offload the switchable buffers to their own PCB.
 
Well, I was able to drill out the 3 pot holes and LED. I was able to put the PCB into the holes from the top side, then figure out where the center of the switch was, then mirrored the distance from top and side! This worked! Set the mark and drilled it to 1/4" and everything lined up perfectly (work around until the drill template and document is released)!

I wired it up as directed and works perfectly! The one setting on the switch is louder and more "raw" and other, lower volume and more warm and rounded! So, lots of versatility. I'll have to spend some time with it and see which I like (as always depends what amp running thru it.
 
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