ADHD Wiring

Wiring is straightforward. The Input / Output / DC jacks all connect directly to the pads at the top of the board.

If you're building true-bypass the six pads at the bottom center of the board are a direct connection to the standard 3PDT breakout board.

If you're building with the Improved Bypass module you'll directly connect all eight pads at the bottom to the Improved Bypass module.


I'll have a schematic posted shortly for cross referencing the various components / versions.

Schematic is here:
So, I don't have that other daughter board, so I would just use the 4 pads (IN/GND/SW/OUT)?? The v.2 has 7 pads to hook up to the 3DPT.

So, you're saying use all 6 pads at the bottom for True Bypass and just ignore the EB?? If so, I'm not sure of the wiring for 6 pads! Can you please clarify??

Also, if not using the daughter board and using True Bypass, what is gained or lost? Do I still have versatility of the different OCD versions or is that part of the daughter board hook up??

Thanks for your support.
 
The daughter board is for switchable buffered bypass (v2.x), without it the PCB operates as a standard true-bypass effect (v1.x).

The six pads at the bottom are the standard Input Jack / IN / GND / SW / OUT / Output Jack configuration.
 
Ok, thanks. I'll wire it up for True Bypass and see how it sounds.
OCD pedals have been around for a while. I haven't used one, so anxious to see how it sounds and stack up against other ODs.
Usually, your boards only have 4 pads and the IN and OUT come off of the jacks themselves. That's why throwing me for a look and v.2 had 7 pads!!?!? :O
 
The previous version included the buffers (and true-bypass/buffered switch) in the main PCB so it involved a more complicated breakout board...

The goal with the redesign was to make it easier to build any version of the OCD circuit, and since all of the v1.x versions were true-bypass it seemed to make more sense to offload the switchable buffers to their own PCB.
 
Well, I was able to drill out the 3 pot holes and LED. I was able to put the PCB into the holes from the top side, then figure out where the center of the switch was, then mirrored the distance from top and side! This worked! Set the mark and drilled it to 1/4" and everything lined up perfectly (work around until the drill template and document is released)!

I wired it up as directed and works perfectly! The one setting on the switch is louder and more "raw" and other, lower volume and more warm and rounded! So, lots of versatility. I'll have to spend some time with it and see which I like (as always depends what amp running thru it.
 
I have these boards - if I understand correctly, the 6 pads on the ADHD board go one-for-one on the Improved bypass switch board. Easy enough, but what about the EB pads? Do I need to connect the two from the ADHD board to the two on the Improved Bypass switch board?

Interestingly, while these two boards can be bought, there does not seem to be concrete instructions on the boards and their connections. I could not find a schematic for the Improved bypass board, but one for the ADHD board.

I have parts arriving in a few days: any advice on this is a huge help to me and the perhaps hundreds of others looking for this answer.
 

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yes the board connections all line up with the breakout board connections

here's some good pics from a forumite showing it done up

 
So it looks like the board was somewhat simplified from original design: now all 6 pads on two boards and the EB pads are to be wired 1-to-1 in the orientation the boards are to be installed.

Thanks!

Pix to arrive soon on this.
 
This is the latest main board and enhanced buffer board available at the time of this post. My shop had most of the parts but I actually did not have the 9V1 zener diodes so ordered them and about $17.00 in parts.

I have an industrialized 3D printer and had a model someone made of the correct Hammond box. They actually created the model from a released 125B Hammond enclosure CAD file (look for it on Thingaverse). I used ABS at about 60% infill and got a very strong box that rivals metal for what I am using this for. Drilling holes was a breeze using the template, but had to adjust for the ON/ON switch offset from the template.

Fired it up and wow - great pedal and new addition to my live show rig. I used the prescribed 1N34A Germanium diodes and matched a couple. I nearly used 1N34s but opted at the last minute for the 1N34A's. I have lots of Ge diodes, but the 1N34As appear to be the best for this application. I found them to be great as a real fine and creamy sound was not what I wanted. The distortion was the right amount of coarse that I like and not fine like a ProCo Rat. The pedal followed a Strat or a LP volume control giving me nice tones from very quiet to opened up full blast. I can nail the Robin Trower sound with this pedal and pushed a little with an Archer Ikon in front of it.

I did not expect the results I got: the boards are absolutely fantastic in quality and well designed for the placement in the 125B enclosure. The sound is responsive and touch-sensitive for doing technique-player stuff. I tested it on the clean channel of an Orange Rockaverb 100 at moderate volume on a USA Strat loaded with Jeff Donavan PP63 pickups (https://donovanpickups.com/). I also tried it with a Gibson LP Standard and it dominated.
 

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