SOLVED Aion Oc-1 build issues

[megatrav]

Hey all!
I am building an Aion OC-1 kit and I am at the testing phase and I have encountered some issues.
A couple notes before I get into the issues:
- I didn’t use a switch to go from buffered to true bypass. Hard wired buffered bypass since that was how the original pedal came.
- Instead of using an LM4040 for z1, I used a 1N4733A wired as they suggested. I will add pics below.

Issues:
1) The bypass tone is awful. As in tone suck city. It sounds like it’s distorting but has weaker output than the pedal not being in the signal.

I think I will switch it to true bypass and see if that fixes the issue.

2) when engaged, the pedal’s volume control works great, but it feels like the other controls aren’t working.
This makes me think that I may have the vactrol in the wrong way. I will post some pics of that as well.

Vactrol:





Buffered bypass wiring:

 

[megatrav]

Z1:

 

[megatrav]

Any help or input is greatly appreciated!

I will be happy to send more photos if needed.

Thanks!

 

[megatrav]

Bumping for any advice

 

[Gordo]

I'm thinking that vactrol is the wrong way around. I believe the dot on the case indicates the + of the LED so I think if you unsolder and rotate it 180 degrees you should be good.

 

[megatrav]

I'm thinking that vactrol is the wrong way around. I believe the dot on the case indicates the + of the LED so I think if you unsolder and rotate it 180 degrees you should be good.

Sorry, to clarify.. you mean rotate it but not flip it upside down?

 

[PJS]

It looks like you have used a NSL-32 in which case the data sheet has the dot on the -ve side of theLED for these, so I think it looks correct

 

[megatrav]

It looks like you have used a NSL-32 in which case the data sheet has the dot on the -ve side of theLED for these, so I think it looks correct

I looked at the data sheet and I wasn’t sure which side the dot represented.
I’m not sure what would cause the other symptoms either.

 

[zgrav]

You may want to post pics for both sides of your board to see if you can get any useful troubleshooting suggestions.

 

[megatrav]

You may want to post pics for both sides of your board to see if you can get any useful troubleshooting suggestions.

I will post more pics once I get a chance. I’m taking a couple days off from it

 

[zgrav]

I will post more pics once I get a chance. I’m taking a couple days off from it

that can also be a good idea. : ^ )

 

[Gordo]

Yeah by rotate I mean pull it straight up, spin clockwise and put it back down so that the LED is left and the LDR is right. The dot will then line up with the + on the board.

 

[Mcknib]

I don't know why they don't just put a + on the anode side

Anyway as @PJS said from the datasheet it looks like the dot is on the cathode negative side

 

[megatrav]

Thanks folks. I ended up breaking one of the legs on the LDR so I ordered a new one. I am going to put sockets on the board so it can’t trick me again! Lol

 

[megatrav]

Just curious, is it possible to wire without the bypass board? Like, wiring the resistors to the switch?

 

[tcpoint]

While you're waiting for the vactrol, we can help you get the buffer working. Do you have a multimeter? Do you have an audio source that you can to debug with?

 

[megatrav]

I do have a pretty basic multimeter. I don’t have an audio source but I can use my guitar if I need to!
I will take any help I can!!

 

[megatrav]

The vactrol showed up today! I am going to post some pics so maybe we can get that sorted out as well

 

[tcpoint]

I've built two (the first one I lent to friend and you probably know how that one goes). I can take voltage measurements. Here's some gutshots: gutshots of stuff. Unfortunately, the vactrol is hiding under a wire.

 

[megatrav]

Since the vactrol did show up today, I thought we could play a fun game and try to match where it’s suppose to go.
I think we can all agree that data sheet is wackadoo and unhelpful at best.
But here are some pictures!