AionFX Cygnus toasted LED pads - any hope with a jumper trick from you wizards?

[laundryman]

Because of some confusing and conflicting notation on AionFX's PCB, their build docs, and google search, I put the LED in backwards and then totally roasted the pads on both sides trying to get it out. I'm hoping that someone here can take a look at the schematic and find a fix by means of jumping the LED anode and cathode to a couple of other pads. If not, all good. I'm still learning.

(The LED stage is the top left portion of the schematic)





Imgur link to my horrendous attempt

I am able to jumper the LED leads from the 3A and LEDR pads above and below it and light the LED up, but this results in just an always-on state and does trigger with the switch.

If you can make it out in the Imgur photos, the semi-circle symbol at the LED on the PCB points the flat side on the outside. However this is apparently backwards (according to replies I got from a post on diystompboxes forums), and they said the flat side of the LED itself needs to face the inside and lay opposite of the PCB marking. I originally soldered it aligned with the printing on the PCB because I assumed thats how it worked but apparently not.

All in all, I'm pretty displeased with Aion FX and plan to stick with only PedalPCB from now on. I know the LED is on me, but the PCB itself is not labeled as the layout is in the image above (I burned off the markings). Aion FX's Help/Support page outright says he isn't going to respond to any customer questions and tells you to ask on an unrelated forum. Everything I found on Google for typical anode/cathode PCB markings was then the opposite again, so I was completely confused. I also found several complaints of this same PCB not having anywhere near the volume that it should, and that the fix is to use Schottky or BAT diodes instead of Germanium, which I changed out and it then worked fine (the build docs call for 5 germanium diodes), so that was a waste of diodes.

I'm not here to gripe, just a forewarning to anyone who happens upon this for their Cygnus build.

Thanks!

 

[moonlightpedalbuilds]

I’ve built hundreds of pedals from both. PedalPCB are easier to build but also like the complexity of AionFX pcbs.

Diodes. The first stage set of diodes should have a higher voltage than the second stage. Ge diodes 1n34a are usually the n the .3v range. What I usually do is socket the diodes. Play around with led, 1n914, 1n4148, bat41 or bat46.

The difference between the aionfx cygnus and pedalpcb g2 is the buffer.

 

[music6000]

Because of some confusing and conflicting notation on AionFX's PCB, their build docs, and google search, I put the LED in backwards and then totally roasted the pads on both sides trying to get it out. I'm hoping that someone here can take a look at the schematic and find a fix by means of jumping the LED anode and cathode to a couple of other pads. If not, all good. I'm still learning.

(The LED stage is the top left portion of the schematic)

View attachment 11135

View attachment 11136

Imgur link to my horrendous attempt

I am able to jumper the LED leads from the 3A and LEDR pads above and below it and light the LED up, but this results in just an always-on state and does trigger with the switch.

If you can make it out in the Imgur photos, the semi-circle symbol at the LED on the PCB points the flat side on the outside. However this is apparently backwards (according to replies I got from a post on diystompboxes forums), and they said the flat side of the LED itself needs to face the inside and lay opposite of the PCB marking. I originally soldered it aligned with the printing on the PCB because I assumed thats how it worked but apparently not.

All in all, I'm pretty displeased with Aion FX and plan to stick with only PedalPCB from now on. I know the LED is on me, but the PCB itself is not labeled as the layout is in the image above (I burned off the markings). Aion FX's Help/Support page outright says he isn't going to respond to any customer questions and tells you to ask on an unrelated forum. Everything I found on Google for typical anode/cathode PCB markings was then the opposite again, so I was completely confused. I also found several complaints of this same PCB not having anywhere near the volume that it should, and that the fix is to use Schottky or BAT diodes instead of Germanium, which I changed out and it then worked fine (the build docs call for 5 germanium diodes), so that was a waste of diodes.

I'm not here to gripe, just a forewarning to anyone who happens upon this for their Cygnus build.

Jumper from Footswitch pad highlighted in Green to Cathode( Flat side) of LED.
With the Anode side of the LED, you need to know which side of LEDR has 9 Volts. A or B
When you know which side has 9 Volts, Jumper from opposite side of resisistor pad to Anode.
If you look on the Backside of the PCB, you should see the Trace from LEDR pad to damaged Anode pad, that's what you need to Jumper.

 

[beachbum]

I would still reach out to AionFX, his customer support has been top notch every time I've been in touch with him. I'm sure his disclaimer is more to prevent his email from turning into a 1st stop troubleshooting destination for new builders.

 

[Mcknib]

I agree with @beachbum you'll find a lot of suppliers have been in the DIY community for a long time and are pretty fair, quite often sending a new pcb regardless of whose error it is

And as you've discovered there's a few illogical intricacies square pad + for electros, sometimes + for diodes sometimes not! I've been caught with that old chestnut a few times

Always worth giving them a message and time to answer it if you're unsure or have a problem

Saying that I'm not the most patient guy on the planet when it comes to firing a build up but....

Patience is a virtue..........

Nobody wants

Fortunately yuv got @music6000 who's the man for this

 

[zgrav]

I will usually test fit the LED after everything else is in place to make sure it is oriented correctly. It also lets me get the length of the LED right if it is mounted to a PCB up to a hole in the enclosure.

 

[laundryman]

View attachment 11144


Jumper from Footswitch pad highlighted in Green to Cathode( Flat side) of LED.
With the Anode side of the LED, you need to know which side of LEDR has 9 Volts. A or B
When you know which side has 9 Volts, Jumper from opposite side of resisistor pad to Anode.
If you look on the Backside of the PCB, you should see the Trace from LEDR pad to damaged Anode pad, that's what you need to Jumper.

You are a genius. Got it working!

Thank you

 

[music6000]

I will usually test fit the LED after everything else is in place to make sure it is oriented correctly. It also lets me get the length of the LED right if it is mounted to a PCB up to a hole in the enclosure.

Same Here!!!