Best way to desolder pots?

BuddytheReow

BuddytheReow

Breadboard Baker
I've got a board I need to cannibalize for parts. What's the best way you guys have found to salvage the pots? All I've got is an iron, a pump, and some tweezers/pliers. Any pointers other than patience?
 
I'm with JimiLee . . . solder-pump and wick if necessary. Sometimes I've had to add some fresh solder to get all the old solder to flow well. The the solder-pump makes short work of it. And it definitely takes practice. When the PCB is sacrificial, then you can cut out portions of the PCB to make component removal easier. Good luck!
 
You can get one of these under a bunch of different names through prime etc:

https://www.vampiretools.com/shop/application/electrical/solder-sucker/

s-l500.jpg


They are much much much better than the normal cheapie solder extractor, and short of a $400 heated vacuum situation, the best chance of getting a pot out of a PCB without lifting pads or toasting something (ime ymmv etc etc).
 
I would gob a little bit of solder on the leads.
Put the board in a vice grip, then lightly with tweezers or pliers (perferably with no teeth) rock it the pot back and forth while heating up the gobs of solder on the other side with the iron.

You can always clean up the solder with wick later.
 
I am quite a noob but after struggling with unsoldering pots for an entire day, what I did was soldering a clipped resistor leg between the pot legs, covering it in solder then melting it all at once and pull the pot slowly off the board
 
ThePanda said:
I would gob a little bit of solder on the leads.
Put the board in a vice grip, then lightly with tweezers or pliers (perferably with no teeth) rock it the pot back and forth while heating up the gobs of solder on the other side with the iron.

You can always clean up the solder with wick later.
Click to expand...
I actually do this a similar, but opposite way, i put the vice grips on the pot(protector) and then I put a good amount of solder on the legs and then rest my iron across all 3 legs and then lift and the pot stays with the vice grips (and falls over unless secured) and the board comes with me.
 
swyse said:
I actually do this a similar, but opposite way, i put the vice grips on the pot(protector) and then I put a good amount of solder on the legs and then rest my iron across all 3 legs and then lift and the pot stays with the vice grips (and falls over unless secured) and the board comes with me.
Click to expand...
That's a good idea too!!
I have to clarify, I was thinking about a right angle pot when I wrote that.

I call mine the desolder "wiggle". Use to use it on laptop dc jack repairs when I was a repair technician.
 
I’ve been saved by my own cheapness in this regard before, a lot of my pedals I just bought the cheaper solder lug pots and soldered solid core wire to them for pcb mount, so they’re only a quick snip away from salvage.
 
Just salvaged 3 pots from a test board this morning. Just used a solder sucker and was able to get it no problem. They’re a lot easier than smaller components, that’s for sure!
 
mdc said:
You can get one of these under a bunch of different names through prime etc:

https://www.vampiretools.com/shop/application/electrical/solder-sucker/

s-l500.jpg


They are much much much better than the normal cheapie solder extractor, and short of a $400 heated vacuum situation, the best chance of getting a pot out of a PCB without lifting pads or toasting something (ime ymmv etc etc).
Click to expand...
This specific model (and manufacturer) is the one to get. It’s identical to the Vampire model that is linked. Vampire tools are rebranded Engineer tools—or, if not rebrands, made in the same factory, etc.

So, although there are numerous possibilities, spring for the Engineer or Vampire branded one. Been a long time fan of Engineer tools in general. Their pliers put most others to shame, including the German and Swiss made ones.
 
I need to get one with a silicon tip- my plastic one is starting to melt from being right on the iron
 

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Alan W said:
This specific model (and manufacturer) is the one to get. It’s identical to the Vampire model that is linked. Vampire tools are rebranded Engineer tools—or, if not rebrands, made in the same factory, etc.
Click to expand...

I haven't tried the Vampire brand, but I can tell you that the FrogBro is not a rebranded Engineer.

I bought one as a backup and it does work fine but it's much lighter and the plunger doesn't move as smoothly as the Engineer. Still much better than the old blue "Soldapullt" type but noticeably different quality from the Engineer.
 
I don't know what kind of iron you are using but I'm using my hakko with a smaller chisel tip. I like the chesil because the wider surface area means less cool down and better transfer of heat to both the component and pad. I have the temp at 850 usually for removal because it heats the solder fast and that means less time on the board and components. I keep the boards I don't bond with or box to cannibalize parts. This is an old robot board. I don't like to add any extra flux because it gets the plunger, pin and spring of the solder sucker all gummy. It's this simple. Look mom, no damage to the pads.
 
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