Bring out yer Diptrace

Smrtokvitek said:
What is your recommended pcb width for the 125B enclosure? @PedalPCB boards are usually 1.9in, but I feel a 2.3in should be doable.
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I think the Tayda 125B has supposedly changed recently but I've gotten as wide as 60.96mm (2.4in) before although it's definitely close as hell to the edges - I gotta imagine I stole that from Rob somewhere.

I tried to confirm I stole that from Rob and looked up some of the wider boards for what its worth:
  • 2.35in (59.69mm) wide: Ocelot, Parenthesis Mini, Abider, Dirty Sanchez, Derailer, Mofeta, Polonium, SMD Scream Machine, Wilhelm Scream
  • 2.375in (60.325mm) wide: FV1 Dev Board, Wrectifier
Edit: That said, I usually start with 53.34mm (2.1in) or 55.88 (2.2in) unless I'm absolutely desperate for space and or potentiometer placement calls for it.
 
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Big Monk said:
Another revision based on dry fitting and real wiring of the test units:

View attachment 52197

1.) I made the board 1mm narrower overall

2.) I had to switch to a shallower Eagle Plastics ground spring because the Keystone was bottoming out

3.) Switched to the 8 Pin Fujitsu relay based on @szukalski advice

4.) Spaced things out a little more, as I found some of the stuff was a bit tight
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This looks great. Do you have a schematic for the relay switch that you used?
 
Big Monk said:
Yeah. It’s the same relay just the End of Life 10 pin version.

@szukalski hipped me to the one I sent you because it’s a current model (no new design concerns with being obsolete) and it’s cheaper.

If you are using a Pedal PCB relay bypass, you’ll want the 10 pin though.
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Thanks. I'd ideally like to make my own for the circuits I'm sending to JLPCB.I buy lots of stuff from Tayda so that's easy. I there a good resource for relays? Istruggle to read the datasheets for them. They are not what I'm used to such as ICs and transistors.
 
neiltheseal said:
Thanks. I'd ideally like to make my own for the circuits I'm sending to JLPCB.I buy lots of stuff from Tayda so that's easy. I there a good resource for relays? Istruggle to read the datasheets for them. They are not what I'm used to such as ICs and transistors.
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There are tons of cross reference sheets out there for various manufacturers (tyco, omron, Fujitsu)
If you know one model that works, you can reference them to find alternatives easy.

Omron Cross Reference https://www.casa.co.nz/electrics/relays/RELAYS-CROSS-REF.pdf
 
Big Monk said:
Let's do an example using the Pedal PCB Basic Relay Bypass as reference and the A-4.5W-K:

View attachment 56910View attachment 56909

The A-4.5W-K is a non-latching relay, meaning it is NC without power and NO when power is applied and energizing the coil, shown as Pins 1 and 10.

The datasheet shows the de-energized condition, meaning that without power, the relay will put the pedal in true bypass condition. The de-energized state is shown in the Pedal PCB schematic, with Pins 2 and 9 active on the relay.

When power is applied, the relay changes state to pins 4 and 7.

It's important to remember that Pins 2, 3, 4, 7, 8, and 9 form a 3PDT switch, just like any other bypass switch. Pins 1 and 10 are the energization/closing/actuation coil, meaning that depending on the type of relay, energization vs. de-energization of the coil operates the switch contacts.

As far as implementing relays into PCB footprints or existing layouts, it is important to keep two things in mind:

1.) The orientation mark denotes the energization coil end

2.) The footprints on the datasheets are BOTTOM views typically.

With respect to 2.) it is important to orient your PCB footprint properly:

View attachment 56911 View attachment 56913
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Thanks so much. This is really helpful
 
Awesome stuff! It made my boxing process a lot more efficient (not that I do much). Cooder took the IO board to the next level with a relay on there!
 
Slotted pot holes like

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szukalski said:
I like to keep it off-board. The relay solutions I have are small enough, and I like to give other builders the option to choose their path.
I am thinking of an on-board set boost with a toggle switch though. The circuit is mid-high gain and really takes off with a boost (though so does the noise).
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What if you incorporated it with the option to jumper it in, or leave it unattached?
 
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