And Ford missed out on the perfect marketing campaign by NOT hiring OJ to be in ads when they re-released the Bronco!!
Bring out yer Diptrace
- Thread starter Grubb
- Start date
KR Sound
Well-known member
One for Culture Jam's Duo-Vibe (https://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?topic=23669.0) that I banged out at work today. Stole the wave control from effectslayouts' pcb. Made the response switch a pot for little reason other than I hate asymmetric controls and wanted to still use a 4 knob tayda enclosure. Figured worst case scenario I just end up hooking up a switch to the pads.
Been wanting to try fun arced traces for a while now and after seeing some of @KR Sound 's most recent boards figured I'd do teardrops as well! Solder mask hidden here to show off both of those
View attachment 66754
The only thing about adding fillets and curves to the traces is that making changes afterwards is a little PITA. It’s pretty much the very last step I do and I’ll tweak angles and routes to make them look as appealing as possible. Teardrops in KiCad thou is easy as clicking Add and Remove, so that’s the very last step before verifying.
jessenator
Well-known member
I'm not sure if I'll ever produce this, but in my quest to get the 500D/Mysto/Nadine's distortion pedal work, I resorted to just straight up replicating the original trace layout. I opted for rounded traces. Hopefully it's more elegant in Diptrace or KiCad, because it's a bit janky in Eagle. Or maybe I'm janky 
It follows the original to a point. I wanted to save space, shrinking the dimensions and pushing in components. I could really compress it, if it weren't for my hacky methodology.
I opted to free-board this one and not use a schematic. Not recommended… I just didn't trust theoriginal available trace, since it seems there were too many cooks and some substitutions were made along the way. I was also able to scrounge for some more board pics during my "trace". Freeboarding is strange, because you have to manually connect parts with airwires before you even put down wires/traces (and if you remove traces connected to multiple parts it will break the airwires…) so it's basically doing the schematic simultaneously with the board—a traditional build with extra steps. Again, not recommended.
I attempted doing an etch layout first in Illustrator which …didn't end well. Scaling, hastiness, my jank again. No. Let's stick with software.
It follows the original to a point. I wanted to save space, shrinking the dimensions and pushing in components. I could really compress it, if it weren't for my hacky methodology.
I opted to free-board this one and not use a schematic. Not recommended… I just didn't trust the
I attempted doing an etch layout first in Illustrator which …didn't end well. Scaling, hastiness, my jank again. No. Let's stick with software.
vigilante398
Authorized Vendor
I'd be interested to hear your thoughts on the Pelota 2, it's one I've been meaning to play with. After diving into both BBD and FV-1 for delay I keep finding myself pulled back to PT2399, but I've never found a modulation setup on PT2399 that I was thrilled with.
szukalski
Well-known member
It’s my favourite PT2399. Modulation isn’t my thing, but having it around 10-20% depth adds a bit of flavour to things. Happy to share Gerbers if you want.
vigilante398
Authorized Vendor
Good to know, and I appreciate it. I'll probably spin my own though, I don't have the patience for through-hole so I would do an SMD layout for pick-and-place. Maybe see if I can find room for a tube in there
jessenator
Well-known member
Got some excellent and helpful feedback/advice from @bean over on the mbp member projects section on this one.
Tweaking a few traces and then I'll feel good to send it off for a prototype. Maybe lol
I keep thinking about the placement of the pots after a sleep on it. Might push them in just a bit so theyre not too close to the fringes.
Totally forgot to put this into 3D to check! That should resolve it
Tweaking a few traces and then I'll feel good to send it off for a prototype. Maybe lol
I keep thinking about the placement of the pots after a sleep on it. Might push them in just a bit so theyre not too close to the fringes.
Totally forgot to put this into 3D to check! That should resolve it
szukalski
Well-known member
I would stick to an existing pot spacing standard. The PPCB is great because it fits with Tayda pre-drilled enclosures.
I know from now on, wherever possible, I’ll be using the predrilled enclosures (even if I have to drill an extra hole or 2, its better than 6), after drilling out 2 dozen enclosures last weekend.
jessenator
Well-known member
I would, but unless they just added it, they don't do 1590B3
That's what I'm experimenting with in this layout
Smrtokvitek
Well-known member
Never heard about this box size, looks interesting.I would, but unless they just added it, they don't do 1590B3
That's what I'm experimenting with in this layout
szukalski
Well-known member
My main reason for doing it is keeping all the drill templates the same.I would, but unless they just added it, they don't do 1590B3
That's what I'm experimenting with in this layout
jessenator
Well-known member
@Feral Feline mentioned it in another thread and it's definitely got potential, so I'm going to experiment with it.Never heard about this box size, looks interesting.
Not quite as wide as a BB but about as tall as an N1 (125B). I swear I had a comparison image on-hand…
jessenator
Well-known member
Diverging slightly, but here's a series of reference images of the 1590 series (we typically use) from the engineering models. @Smrtokvitek
jessenator
Well-known member
an Enigma machine
Feral Feline
Well-known member
Feral Feline
Well-known member
Missing the Hammond 1590Q, which is 120mm x 120mm x 34mm
I can't fathom why the Q isn't a more popular size in DIY pedal-building.
benny_profane
Well-known member
No one makes a cheap knockoff?
