Chalumeau

[pigeonpedal]

Definitely kicking myself for trying to desolder the switch wire from the pin 1 socket because that really messed the socket up! First thing I'm gonna do is pull the socket out but not looking forward to desoldering those 8 tiny leads.

 

[Feral Feline]

Yeah, I did the mod without the switch and it worked fine, just modding it to take out the fuzz. But as soon as I wired the switch up I lost all sound through the circuit. Bypass still works of course. Really not sure what happened. Haven't had a chance yet to revisit but will have some time to work on it tomorrow.

Go HERE and start your own thread — Post some pics of your build, both sides of the board and connections.

The people really good at troubleshooting are more likely to see your thread and you'll stand a better chance of getting your build sorted.

 

[pigeonpedal]

Go HERE and start your own thread — Post some pics of your build, both sides of the board and connections.

The people really good at troubleshooting are more likely to see your thread and you'll stand a better chance of getting your build sorted.

Thanks! UPDATE: I really screwed up the board trying to fix it. Pulled up some traces, scratched off a lot of the masking layer, exposing some of the copper ground around the pads for the LM386, maybe even pulled off a couple of pads. So, I tossed the board, I think it may have been salvageable but would have needed some TLC that I didn't feel up to doing. Bought another PCB and re-built and now I'm pretty happy with it. Successfully pulled off the mod. Just a note to anyone doing the fuzz switch mod: Works better to solder the wire to LM386 pin 1 on the back of the board rather than into the socket-- that was easier and makes the mod actually reversible if you decide you don't like it, just unsolder the wire and maybe you'll have to switch out the IC but you won't have to desolder a whole dip-8 socket.

 

[Feral Feline]

@pigeonpedal — Thanks for the tip re: wiring the mod; and congrats on a successful build.

If you ever need to pull an IC socket again and you're using machine-pin sockets, you can sacrifice the socket and remove one pin at a time (unlike an IC that is a TPITA to remove). I imagine you could do the same with a fly-leaf style socket, one pin at a time but probably more fiddly. Helps to snip the plastic skeleton of the socket away so each pin is independent.