ElectroVibe Modifications Thread
- Thread starter Big Monk
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Big Monk
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Don’t remember the designator but the one in parallel with the diodes.
andare
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Big Monk
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Yup.
andare
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I just checked and I have tantalums in those values! So I'll use those and keep R12 stock at 2M2.
Thank you Derek!
joelorigo
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Cool! This mod wasn't listed at the beginning of this thread when I built mine - I did change R12 to 5M and I have 1u electrolytics in C7-8. What would be change in sound by 1) changing C8 to 2u2 or 2) just replacing with tantalum or film? Slower available speed than stock?
andare
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Where do you guys find 5M resistors? All I can find is 4M7 and 5M6. I suppose the higher the value the slower the LFO can go?
joelorigo
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I think I got mine from a local shop that is more expensive but usually has what Tayda is out of, or not the brand I prefer. It's highly possible that mine was a 5M6 also.
The Gator
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So have any of you swapped out the series and/or bootstrap capacitors in the circuit as suggested by RG Keen?
If so, did it sound better to your ears? More like a phaser on the chorus?
Just curious as i am thinking of trying it because I plan on opening mine back up and putting some MLCC or tantalum caps in at C7 C8 and C9 in the LFO circuit.
Thank you for your input.
Gator
If so, did it sound better to your ears? More like a phaser on the chorus?
Just curious as i am thinking of trying it because I plan on opening mine back up and putting some MLCC or tantalum caps in at C7 C8 and C9 in the LFO circuit.
Thank you for your input.
Gator
The Gator
Well-known member
I changed out the LFO circuit caps for tantalum. I put a 2.2 uf in the C8 position. I noticed that not only did it lower the lowest speed available, it seems to have shifted the the full range slower. Meaning the fastest speed available isn't as fast as it was and it no longer "tops out" the bulb causing it to stay on.
I originally did the slow speed mod of a 5M1 ohm resistor at R12, and 2K7 resistors at R14 and R15 for the high speed mod. At highest speed setting, the bulb would end up staying on. I changed out R14 and R15 for 3K9 resistors and it still just barely stayed on if left at that highest speed setting.
Now that i have a 2.2 uf at C8 along with the 5M1 at R12, it no longer goes fast enough to stay on.
This is the most interesting pedal I have built so far.
I originally did the slow speed mod of a 5M1 ohm resistor at R12, and 2K7 resistors at R14 and R15 for the high speed mod. At highest speed setting, the bulb would end up staying on. I changed out R14 and R15 for 3K9 resistors and it still just barely stayed on if left at that highest speed setting.
Now that i have a 2.2 uf at C8 along with the 5M1 at R12, it no longer goes fast enough to stay on.
This is the most interesting pedal I have built so far.
Big Monk
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It should be noted that lower the low range does indeed shift the WHOLE range down.
So anyone tweaking that should make sure you tweak your maximum fast speed accordingly.
joelorigo
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Good to know! That is exactly how mine behaves. I think I'll try this. Is the fastest speed pretty fast in your opinion?
andare
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I've soldered all the resistors minus R12. Can't decide if I should leave it stock at 2M2 or go up. I have 4M7 and 5M6, no 5M1.
I also want to use 2u2 for C8. Should I raise R14 and R15 from 2k7 to 3k9?
joelorigo
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Are you referring to changing the R14/R15 values on the mod sheet at the beginning of this thread (from 4K7 to 1.2-2.7k)?
The Gator
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I have to say if I were to do it again, I would first put in the 2.2 cap at C8 and a 5.1 Meg resistor at R12, then probably socket the R14 and 15 resistors to try and see what will work and give me the fastest speed without topping out and making the lamp stay on. It kind of trips my OCD when the highest speed setting makes the lamp stay on and you get no effect. I have 3.9k as of right now on R14 and R15 resistors. This gives pretty decent speed. I would try the 2.7k IF, you have a 2.2uf at C8 and a 5M1 at R12
The Gator
Well-known member
I did the unity mod at R4, the darlington mod at Q14, the reliability mod at Q3 and Q4, the low range mod at R12 and C8, the high speed mod at R14 an R15. then the 50k trim pot with 68ks at R16 and R17, and the 10uf mod on the series caps. Oh and tantalum on C7, 8 and 9.
I did my lights slightly a little different. I noticed that I could wire the rate led set up on both sides of the R19 resistor, and then I put it in place of the speed led. Basically because it shows speed. Then i used dpdt switch on the chorus/vibe switch so I could do the bicolor to indicate chorus or vibe settings.
I had a lot of fun building this and it sounds pretty awesome!
I did my lights slightly a little different. I noticed that I could wire the rate led set up on both sides of the R19 resistor, and then I put it in place of the speed led. Basically because it shows speed. Then i used dpdt switch on the chorus/vibe switch so I could do the bicolor to indicate chorus or vibe settings.
I had a lot of fun building this and it sounds pretty awesome!
Big Monk
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The Gator
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Yes! So if you look at the junction where the LFO and the lamp driver circuits meet, you have several components there that are all one point. The emitter of Q2, the positive side of C14, the speed pots and R19. R19 is the only component that the other side of it goes to ground. Which is the other conection you need for the rate led mod.
So I smashed the leads of the R19 4K7 so as to squeeze a lead of a 6K8 resistor in with R19 in the hole that is the "junction" side. Then smashed the lead of a 10K resistor and slipped it in to the ground side hole of R19. The add heatshrink. Then solder the led so as to be parallel to the 10K and in series with the 6K8.
So I smashed the leads of the R19 4K7 so as to squeeze a lead of a 6K8 resistor in with R19 in the hole that is the "junction" side. Then smashed the lead of a 10K resistor and slipped it in to the ground side hole of R19. The add heatshrink. Then solder the led so as to be parallel to the 10K and in series with the 6K8.
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Big Monk
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Yours just seemed much brighter than my original. Maybe it was the different color.
