Help removing the buffer from a TC Boost + Line Driver & Distortion

stinkfeet

New member
I'm working on making my own boards for a TC Boost + Line Driver & Distortion and I want to omit the bypass buffer circuit and I was hoping someone could show me what I need to axe.
 

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First thing I'd do is redraw the entire schematic in DIYLC, or whatever you're using to lay out your PCB.

Do you have/use DIYLC (DoItYourselfLayoutCreator)?
If not, it's a free/donate-something software program that's great for drawing schematics and layouts.
I find DIYLC easier to knock up a schematic quickly than in Eagle, but probably only because I'm still struggling to learn Eagle (and may switch to KiCad soon).

A redraw will clean up the schematic, make it easier to look at and —importantly— let you subtract/add bits of the schematic as needed.


As for the actual ripping out of the buffered bypass, I'm not knowledgeable enough to work that out.


I'll haZard a guess that the entire block at the end can be omitted. 🤷‍♂️


TC Booster+ Linedriver & Distortion SCHEMATIC buffer removal.jpg
 
First thing I'd do is redraw the entire schematic in DIYLC, or whatever you're using to lay out your PCB.

Do you have/use DIYLC (DoItYourselfLayoutCreator)?
If not, it's a free/donate-something software program that's great for drawing schematics and layouts.
I find DIYLC easier to knock up a schematic quickly than in Eagle, but probably only because I'm still struggling to learn Eagle (and may switch to KiCad soon).

A redraw will clean up the schematic, make it easier to look at and —importantly— let you subtract/add bits of the schematic as needed.


As for the actual ripping out of the buffered bypass, I'm not knowledgeable enough to work that out.


I'll haZard a guess that the entire block at the end can be omitted. 🤷‍♂️


View attachment 93974
I'm working on making a schematic in easyEDA right now. I was thinking the same thing about just removing that entire block, but I'm not certain.
 
I'm confused about how this DPDT is wired

See the two lines that look like an equal sign? Those are the contacts, they slide left and right to close the switch.

Pink, Yellow, and Blue is one pole. (The connection will either be Yellow to Pink or Yellow to Blue, depending on switch position)
Brown, Green, and Purple is the other pole. (The connection will either be Green to Brown or Green to Purple)

Pay attention to the jumpers, green will always be connected to blue and brown regardless of switch position.
 
Sorry, I've been forgetting to post how far I've gotten with the schematic. I haven't figured out the buffer yet, But this is what I have
 

Attachments

  • Schematic_TC-Electronic-Booster+-Line-Driver-and-Distortion_2025-04-17.png
    Schematic_TC-Electronic-Booster+-Line-Driver-and-Distortion_2025-04-17.png
    126.8 KB · Views: 4
Have a look at Robert's schematic-snippet again.
Looks like the input buffer is also acting as a splitter of sorts, so probably best not to remove it.

Or am I on the wrong train-of-thought and need to jump tracks?
 
Have a look at Robert's schematic-snippet again.
Looks like the input buffer is also acting as a splitter of sorts, so probably best not to remove it.

Or am I on the wrong train-of-thought and need to jump tracks?
That's what I was kind of thinking, but I wondered if there was something I could do to emulate it because I can't fit all the parts into a 125b sized PCB
 
🤷‍♂️

Yeah, when I said "Ask Robert...", I gave you 5 examples of how Robert stacks PCBs.
By studying them, you might discern and extrapolate how to accomplish the same sort of stacking with your own project. In effect, Robert's shown you how to do it, you just need to emulate what he does.

Here's a couple more stacked PCBs in a 1590N1 to look at:
There are more stacked-board projects you might glean info from, but you can hunt them out yourself if you need or want to.


You can always make your own drill template for the 1590DD. 😸
 
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