Lead Solder Buzz

I know it's dumb, but make sure they are the right parts in the right places? I was totally stumped on a really complicated build until I realized that I had used TL071 instead of TL022. Also *convinced* that Q3 in my failed marigold build was PNP... it was not. The correct NPN substitution unfailed it well.
 
I know it's dumb, but make sure they are the right parts in the right places? I was totally stumped on a really complicated build until I realized that I had used TL071 instead of TL022. Also *convinced* that Q3 in my failed marigold build was PNP... it was not. The correct NPN substitution unfailed it well.

Yep, I had my resistor calculator out and everything.
 
Dumb question, but where did you get your TL072 from? Not saying they would be likely to be counterfeit, but the possibility of them being from a bad run is always a possibility
 
It sounds to me like the charge pump (IC4) could be the culprit. I've experiences similar effects before. Make sure C101, C100 and C102 are all oriented correctly (cathode negative facing the switch). Also, note that not all 1044's or 7660's are the same. The last few letters make a difference and some buzz like that. I use ICL7660CPAZ which are affordably available, reliable and don't leave 'switching supply chatter' artifacts.

If you have access to an oscilloscope, check pin 8 of IC4 (VCC) for a saw tooth oscillation in the 90Hz range. If you socket your ICs, pull IC4 and see if it goes away (you will still have 9V at VCC, but the other IC's will be unbalanced and may not sound good, as this design does not us a V ref). Check all components for orientation (IC's and electrolytic caps).

Additionally, mine like other builders who commented, had annoying hiss and oscillations (like 200Hz to 500Hz 'whistles'). Fixed by changing C8 to 220pF and R10 to 510K, which you can read about here: https://forum.pedalpcb.com/threads/lead-solder-overdrive.20717/page-2#post-278621.

Hope this resolves your problem.
 
Update: it’s not the charge pump. I do, however have continuity to ground on IC2 pin 2 but only when power is applied. I feel like I’m getting closer.
 
There is probably a DC voltage on pin 2 that is giving a false continuity reading.
Ah, gotcha. This thing is making me nuts. I can’t figure it out.built a second board. Different ICs and pots. Does the same thing with a power supply or battery. It seems to be introduced around IC2
 
Does the gain control change that noise aside from the level? (Tonality or pitch)

If you plug in a guitar and turn it's volume all the way down does it make any difference?

What are you plugging into?

Is it boxed up or on some sort of testing rig? Mine did not cooperate with my Auditorium rig but worked fine after boxing it up.
 
Does the gain control change that noise aside from the level? (Tonality or pitch)

If you plug in a guitar and turn it's volume all the way down does it make any difference?

What are you plugging into?

Is it boxed up or on some sort of testing rig? Mine did not cooperate with my Auditorium rig but worked fine after boxing it up.
The gain control does make a difference. Plugging in and use the guitar volume does t make a difference. It’s on my test rig. I posted the sound in the first post. If you really think it will make a difference I will box it up.
 
I'd hate for you to box it up just to have to unbox it again, but if you've built two and they're both doing the exact same thing I'd start to suspect something off of the PCB itself.

Unless you have a batch of some defective component (or something with the incorrect value marked) the chances of making the exact same mistake twice aren't as likely... and I mean, you've built a pedal or two before. :ROFLMAO:

Do the EQ controls change the pitch of the noise? I mean in some way other than what you'd expect the EQ to do to a signal being fed through it.
 
I'd hate for you to box it up just to have to unbox it again, but if you've built two and they're both doing the exact same thing I'd start to suspect something off of the PCB itself.

Unless you have a batch of some defective component (or something with the incorrect value marked) the chances of making the exact same mistake twice aren't as likely... and I mean, you've built a pedal or two before. :ROFLMAO:

Do the EQ controls change the pitch of the noise? I mean in some way other than what you'd expect the EQ to do to a signal being fed through it.
The E.Q. doesn't change the pitch or anything. When the gain is down, and maybe up a touch, it doesn't do it. I plugged into a scarlette 2i2 and an amp or two.
 
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Just want to share what i observed (discovered) with the Lead Solder. During my initial testing of the board (not encase yet), I also had the noise and oscillation on the pedal. Then I tried one of the suggestions here about changing R10 to 510K and C9 TO 220pf, well it helped at some point in lessening the noise and oscillation. However when I boxed it up (aluminum casing) , my ear can tell that the modification altered the sonic quality of the original circuit. I noticed that the EQ is not as sensitive as they when you dial them. So I reverted back to 1meg for the R10 and 100pf for the C9 and pedal sounds like the real after market SLO pedal. I also noticed that the oscillation was not present but would generate noise once the gain is max out which i thought normal for high gain pedal.

But here was what I discovered. The moment i added the Lead solder with my other DIY pedals and used my existing isolated psu (made in china, oem type) I was surprised of the unbearable noise and oscillation I got from it. It captured every bit of nuances on my guitar's vibration like if i tap the volume knob of my strat, picking, etc. Also, the sound was crappy far from my expectation.

So i experimented using 2 more other PSU. One is a PSU of my TC Electronics x4 Delay. On that PSU, the oscillation was not there as I max out the gain but typically generated noise when gain is fully up. But I noticed with that TC Elec delay PSU, the pedal sounded warmer and not the typical high mid SLO pedal.

Now I have another PSU the one that came with my Flamma Eckoverb. I noticed with the 2nd PSU i used, there was no oscillation, noise is much less at maximum gain setting, perfectly sounded like the Soldano SLO original pedal.

It seemed this pedal needs a very good PSU and make sure you have a separate power supply for it. This pedal is a bit picky when it comes to power source. IF I want this pedal on my board, I will surely use a separate adaptor for it.

I don't think the charge pump IC TL1044 is to blame, but rather the chip could just be reacting to the power supply or how pure is the power source is. However, I still ordered TL10544 chips to see if the pedal will improve more.

Again this is just my observation. Hope it helps and encourages those who want to build this project. Because I personally has been looking for that Soldano gain sound. I already built other high gain pedals like Angry Charlie, Angry Andy, MI Crunch box, BE OD, Dirty Sanchez, Revv Tyrian, and many more. Yet this Lead solder is different from them all.
 
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Just want to share what i observed (discovered) with the Lead Solder. During my initial testing of the board (not encase yet), I also had the noise and oscillation on the pedal. Then I tried one of the suggestions here about changing R10 to 510K and C9 TO 220pf, well it helped at some point in lessening the noise and oscillation. However when I boxed it up (aluminum casing) , my ear can tell that the modification altered the sonic quality of the original circuit. I noticed that the EQ is not as sensitive as they when you dial them. So I reverted back to 1meg for the R10 and 100pf for the C9 and pedal sounds like the real after market SLO pedal. I also noticed that the oscillation was not present but would generate noise once the gain is max out which i thought normal for high gain pedal.

But here was what I discovered. The moment i added the Lead solder with my other DIY pedals and used my existing isolated psu (made in china, oem type) I was surprised of the unbearable noise and oscillation I got from it. It captured every bit of nuances on my guitar's vibration like if i tap the volume knob of my strat, picking, etc. Also, the sound was crappy far from my expectation.

So i experimented using 2 more other PSU. One is a PSU of my TC Electronics x4 Delay. On that PSU, the oscillation was not there as I max out the gain but typically generated noise when gain is fully up. But I noticed with that TC Elec delay PSU, the pedal sounded warmer and not the typical high mid SLO pedal.

Now I have another PSU the one that came with my Flamma Eckoverb. I noticed with the 2nd PSU i used, there was no oscillation, noise is much less at maximum gain setting, perfectly sounded like the Soldano SLO original pedal.

It seemed this pedal needs a very good PSU and make sure you have a separate power supply for it. This pedal is a bit picky when it comes to power source. IF I want this pedal on my board, I will surely use a separate adaptor for it.

I don't think the charge pump IC TL1044 is to blame, but rather the chip could just be reacting to the power supply or how pure is the power source is. However, I still ordered TL10544 chips to see if the pedal will improve more.

Again this is just my observation. Hope it helps and encourages those who want to build this project. Because I personally has been looking for that Soldano gain sound. I already built other high gain pedals like Angry Charlie, Angry Andy, MI Crunch box, BE OD, Dirty Sanchez, Revv Tyrian, and many more. Yet this Lead solder is different from them all.
Nope, doesn’t it with a battery, too.
 
Just thinking out loud here but since you said it seems to be coming from around IC2, probe pins 557 of IC 2. It should be stabilized to ground but, if it's not it could oscilate.
Shot in the dark but you're kinda at that point.
You didn't use one of those blue LEDs again did you 8)
 
Just thinking out loud here but since you said it seems to be coming from around IC2, probe pins 557 of IC 2. It should be stabilized to ground but, if it's not it could oscilate.
Shot in the dark but you're kinda at that point.
You didn't use one of those blue LEDs again did you 8)
Thanks. Here's an interesting update. If I jumper pins 1 and 2 of the gain pot. it goes away..along with about half the gain.
 
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