Messed Up PCB Pads? New PCB?

[joelorigo]

I got to the last component on the Duocast PCB when I noticed I installed the 8 pin IC socket in upside down. Trying to get it out I think I messed up a couple of the pads. What would be the options here? Finish it and see if it works? Buy a replacement PBC and take all the parts out of the old board and install on the new board?
I can't believe I did this

 

[Nostradoomus]

Just the socket? That doesn’t matter, put the IC in the right way and it’ll be fine.

 

[twebb6778]

Just like Nostradoomus said, the orientation of the socket is irrelevant. As long as the IC itself is the correct orientation it'll work.

Personally, I think this circuit is a lot more interesting at 9v anyway. I just left the charge pump out of my simulcast.

 

[joelorigo]

A

Just the socket? That doesn’t matter, put the IC in the right way and it’ll be fine.

Ahh, I wish I posted here BEFORE I tried to remove it. It’s all messed up now

 

[joelorigo]

Just like Nostradoomus said, the orientation of the socket is irrelevant. As long as the IC itself is the correct orientation it'll work.

Personally, I think this circuit is a lot more interesting at 9v anyway. I just left the charge pump out of my simulcast.

At this point it seems the smartest thing for me to do is just finish it and not worry about the charge pump ic.

So I assume then there’s no need to add the external voltage switch? The one that switches from 9v to 27v? Since sending the signal through the ic is how it becomes 27v, right?

And it will still work with this cracked in half socket and a couple of messed up pads?

 

[twebb6778]

Correct. If you follow the schematic you can see where the IC is that increases the voltage. You can just follow the highlighted path, ignore everything below it, and you should be sweet! It looks like the LT1054 also integrates the switchable gain option, so unfortunately you'll also lose this too.

 

[joelorigo]

Correct. If you follow the schematic you can see where the IC is that increases the voltage. You can just follow the highlighted path, ignore everything below it, and you should be sweet! It looks like the LT1054 also integrates the switchable gain option, so unfortunately you'll also lose this too.

View attachment 5524

Oh no, you mean the foot switch that switches to the higher gain mode? So it wouldn’t be able to do the high gain mode?

 

[twebb6778]

Actually I think you should be ok. Looking at the schematic again I think the gain and bypass footswitches should work normally.

I am a little confused by SW3 in the schematic (highlighted). The two 3PDT's and SPDT for voltage are all accounted for in the build docs, but not SW3.



If you're leaving out the IC and want to hard wire it for 9v, you'll also need to short these two pads (in red):

 

[joelorigo]

Actually I think you should be ok. Looking at the schematic again I think the gain and bypass footswitches should work normally.

I am a little confused by SW3 in the schematic (highlighted). The two 3PDT's and SPDT for voltage are all accounted for in the build docs, but not SW3.

Ok, that's good news. I purposefully waited for this dual foot switch version.

Also, for anyone else reading this, any confirmation on what SW3 is?

 

[joelorigo]

If you're leaving out the IC and want to hard wire it for 9v, you'll also need to short these two pads (in red):

View attachment 5526

Will do, thanks!

Although, if I don't do this jumper, would you be able to use a higher voltage power adaptor, or a voltage doubler to run at 18v?

 

[twebb6778]

You'll still need to use a jumper there in place of the switch, because there's nothing for the switch to switch to, if that makes sense. Without something bridging those two pads, either a jumper or a switch, your board won't get power.

As long as your components are rated for at least 25v, I think you'll be able to use an 18v power supply with this if you decide you want to try it.

 

[joelorigo]

You'll still need to use a jumper there in place of the switch, because there's nothing for the switch to switch to, if that makes sense. Without something bridging those two pads, either a jumper or a switch, your board won't get power.

As long as your components are rated for at least 25v, I think you'll be able to use an 18v power supply with this if you decide you want to try it.

Oh right, I'll have to double check the voltage one all the components.

And yes that does make sense about the switch/jumper/power issue

Thanks

 

[Robert]

Also, for anyone else reading this, any confirmation on what SW3 is?

SW3 is the solder jumper pads on the bottom of the board (under the charge pump IC)... these are for using a 7660 or 1044 type charge pump instead of LT1054.

 

[twebb6778]

SW3 is really obvious now that you mention it, thanks!

@music6000 those jumpers look correct to me.

 

[joelorigo]

SW3 is really obvious now that you mention it, thanks!

@music6000 those jumpers look correct to me.

Oh where did that post go from @music6000 ? I'm not sure what that was implying

 

[music6000]

This should help if you want to try jumpers to the Op Amp Socket.
Pins 3 & 5 go to Ground.
Pins 1, 4, 6 & 7 are not used with LT1054, Somebody jump in if this is not Correct! :

 

[joelorigo]

This should help if you want to try jumpers to the Op Amp Socket
Pins 1, 4, 6 & 7are not used with LT1054, Somebody jump in if this is not Correct! :

Assuming this is correct, are you saying I would have to do more than jumper those first 2 SPDT pads that was previously mentioned?

 

[music6000]

Assuming this is correct, are you saying I would have to do more than jumper those first 2 SPDT pads that was previously mentioned?

This is for correcting any damage if you use an Op Amp socket & LT1054 to be able to switch from 9v to 27v again.

 

[joelorigo]

This is for correcting any damage if you use an Op Amp socket & LT1054 to be able to switch from 9v to 27v again.

Ah! I think I see. If I take the socket out, I can insert the LT1054, use the SPDT switch, and in case any pads are damaged, doing the jumpers you highlighted - it will work as originally intended?

 

[music6000]

Ah! I think I see. If I take the socket out, I can insert the LT1054, use the SPDT switch, and in case any pads are damaged, doing the jumpers you highlighted - it will work as originally intended?

I would still use a Socket again, Heat is your worst enemy with Op Amps!
I would use 24 gauge hook up wire & twist the tinned wires.
Wrap around a safety pin twice then cut of excess and slide over Op Amp Pin & solder: