Messed Up PCB Pads? New PCB?

[joelorigo]

I would still use a Socket again, Heat is your worst enemy with Op Amps!
I would use 24 gauge hook up wire & twist the tinned wires.
Wrap around a safety pin twice then cut of excess and slide over Op Amp Pin & solder:

View attachment 5533

OK sounds good.
Regarding your diagram above, just to be clear since I am new at this, I would jump from the "8" you highlighted on the SPDT pin, to "8" on the D5 diode to "8" on the D100 diode to the "8" on the IC to "8" on the D1 diode? And a separate jump that goes from "2" on the IC to "2" on C12 and to "2" on C14? And "G" to "G" on the IC pins? Like this?

 

[music6000]

You would just need this.
It would all be done on the reverse side so you don't see it :

 

[joelorigo]

You would just need this.
It would all be done on the reverse side so you don't see it :
View attachment 5538

Got it. Thank you.

I currently only have 22 gage solid wire. Would that work?

 

[joelorigo]

So, if I understand everything correctly, I can:

1. Remove and replace the socket, and even if a couple of the pads are bad, it will work as normal if I do the jumpers above.
2. Hard wire it for 9v by doing not using the IC or the SDPT switch and jumping then 2 switch pads (what is suggested in reply 8 of this thread).

 

[music6000]

Yes, 1, 4, 6 & 7 dont need to be connected, you can put some solder on them to give the socket some more strength onto the PCB.
22 gauge should be fine.

 

[joelorigo]

I received a new socket today and I though of another question.

When I was saying I might of "messed" a pad it was only a couple on the bottom. How does one tell if a pad is "messed" up on the PCB? Could I try without doing any jumpers and see if it works?

 

[twebb6778]

You can use your DMM to test for continuity between points that are supposed to be connected.

Use the colours in the pictures above. You should get continuity between any red pad to another red pad. Then check yellow, then blue.

 

[joelorigo]

You can use your DMM to test for continuity between points that are supposed to be connected.

Use the colours in the pictures above. You should get continuity between any red pad to another red pad. Then check yellow, then blue.

Thanks, I'll try it

 

[joelorigo]

Only the yellow ones got continuity. And the IC blue pad looks fine. Then, I noticed I had the D5 diode in backward. Got it out but having trouble getting it back in the right way. Ughh, this project is cursed

 

[twebb6778]

You'll need to add jumpers wherever you don't have continuity.

If you've got a solder sucker or solder wick that can help you remove excess solder before trying to reinstall a component. If you're having trouble getting it back in the right way, just go one leg at a time. Get it most of the way through with one leg, then work on the other leg. Let the pads cool down for 20 seconds before each attempt so they're not being heated for too long.

 

[joelorigo]

OK, that makes sense, I will try one leg at a time. I might have damages these pads as well however.

 

[twebb6778]

Take your time

Once it's in post some photos and do some more continuity tests. If you're not getting continuity you can always add some jumpers.

 

[joelorigo]

Take your time

Once it's in post some photos and do some more continuity tests. If you're not getting continuity you can always add some jumpers.

Yes, I will be more patient and always try to double check in the future.

Anyway I got the diode in the correct way. Still the same continuity result - just the yellow from the above diagram. However, I do not yet have the new socket soldered in yet. Should I do that and check again?

EDIT: I placed it in without soldering and now I have continuity with the blue and yellow

 

[music6000]

Yes , make sure the Socket is facing the right way & all the way in.
Test for Continuity again after Soldering on the 3 Colours on all the pads marked.

 

[joelorigo]

Ok, soldered the socket and now it is back to just the yellow showing continuity. Also, I was having a hard time getting the solder to drop around the socket's pins, it kept collecting on the iron. Could that be because the metal on the PCB pads are damaged? And looks like I need to jumper the red and the blue paths

 

[zgrav]

hard to solder a pin in place if the pad is gone that it would have been soldered to. but solder in all the pins you can, and then use jumpers on the pins where you do not have the indicated connectivity.

 

[joelorigo]

hard to solder a pin in place if the pad is gone that it would have been soldered to. but solder in all the pins you can, and then use jumpers on the pins where you do not have the indicated connectivity.

Ok got it. Based on how this project is going, this should be I interesting ?

 

[joelorigo]

I added the blue and red jumpers as directed above. Now shows continuity on the blue, red and yellow points. Yay!

In regard to the D5 diode I had to extract and replace correctly, how do I know if I damaged either of those pads?

And, can I proceed to add the IC in the socket and finish the build?

 

[music6000]

D5 Continuity Check - Left side to GROUND (Yellow Trace)
Right side to Right side D100 & Op Amp Pin 8 (Red Trace)

 

[joelorigo]

D5 Continuity Check - Left side to GROUND (Yellow Trace)
Right side to Right side D100 & Op Amp Pin 8 (Red Trace)

View attachment 5618

Left side (yellow) - Yes
Right side - No

So jump the right side of D5 to Right side D100?